240260280z

Congrats! You are there now! Way to go. I like a Z with cam sprocket on #3... it moves your power band into higher RPMS. Please check your head at a machine shop to see if it is not warped. That can cause the leaks at front and back that you discovered. Also when you reassemble, be sure to clean out the head bolt holes in the block and clean the head bolt threads... just oil them and you are good to go. Also I like to put the head across two small blocks of wood (like a bridge) or on its side so that the valves do not rest on anything. Keep us updated and ask any questions. btw for removing the cam sprocket without rotating it, you can do this:

Am I the only one seeing a face with shaving cream?

180 out is no problem but the plugs must also be 180 out so instead of 153624 it will be 624153. If your plugs are not correct the car won't run at all and you will get pops and backfire when cranking.

Studied at Concordia in 88. Love the city.F1 was great in the rain on the 12th. For your problem I am not sure how to proceed as my Z and others I worked on did not have shrouds. Check the details in the Factory Service Manual. You can get one here: http://hammondsplains.com/fsm/

http://www.bangkokclassiccar.com/forum/index.php?topic=11467.0

The fusible link the other chaps are referring to is the white wire to the starter in this picture You should check to see if you have 12V at the coil positive terminal with the key on.

Yeah it looks weird. Could be a glitch in the image but the rear plate seems stuck out:

YEs, probably water pump. btw I was in just Montreal.

Typical quality control... we were just complaining about a leaking header... if the simple pressure test was done, or in your case a spin on a jig then these problems would never leave the factory... My observation of many of today's car parts suppliers......they are starting to polish turds pretty good.

Yes, don't ever tow a Z from these points! I saw a friends brake loose when the towing vehicle turned at low speed. Good thing it happened before on the highway.

Rust in frame rails. Look at the rail in the wheel well just behind the front wheels as well as under the driver and passenger seats. Also look below the battery and on the rear hatch opening with the hatch open. Price is what you think is fair.

I got this Feb 1970 in SC :http://hammondsplains.com/zcars4sale/240z/greenfeb1970/index.htm. It was $4k plus another $1k for shipping to Calais Maine.

I'll need an l24 in front of me to recommend exact solution for spring anchor point. Look for a free nut in the area below and cobble something with an aluminum bracket or even stainless steel wire. Maybe use some sort of washer with hook below or some sort of bracket like this mounted to the carb mounting bolts and facing down:

Try the exhaust manifold. I have read that some have pulled valve cover and chained to cam but I would not do this unless I planned to use a new head. Some of the upper bolts on the bell housing could also be used for read hoist point.

Try the exhaust manifold. I have read that some have pulled valve cover and chained to cam but I would not do this unless I planned to use a new head. Some of the upper bolts on the bell housing could also be used for read hoist point.

Quality and good materials has gone out the door for nearly everything... coffee makers, refrigerators, dishwashers, car parts, camera's, music instruments, lawn mowers, light bulbs, tools, TV's, etc. I heard of a chromed valve cover shipped with a gasket still on it.... and chromed too. More posts like this will force the supplier (MSA) to vet it's vendors better.

Ma Po Tofu from Tianjin please

Not having the chokes hooked up makes it easier. When you turn the knurled screw to bring jet all the way up until it stops, the top of the jet should be flush with the brass cylinder top that the jet resides in. The jet should move easily when the knurled screw is turned by hand. Any binding will be caused by gunk or corrosion between the jet and the sleeve (brass cylinder in which the jet moves). After you get the jets moving freely in their sleeves, the needle should be set to it drops all the way down and it's shoulder sits on top of the jet and effectively closes the space between the two.

Clean and lube the carb: 0. Make sure the choke connection to the jet works correctly and the jets raise and lower easily with the choke cables. 1. Take out the jet and clean it as well as the tube where it fits. Spray carb cleaner works great 2. Once cleaned insert the jet and move it by hand up and down. Check for binding. 3. If it still binds, you may wish to gently sand jet with emery paper to help. PS Spray carb cleaner on all that black stuff and wipe with blue shop rags until just grey aluminum. Do the same for the pistons and domes. Clean carbs work better than carbon-gummed carbs.

OK, so no spark after the distributor. Now check to see if there is spark before the distributor: 1. Pull the short HV wire at centre of the distributor. 2. Place the open end of this wire up near one of the 3 bolts on the strut tower. Have the metal contact ~ 1/4" or less from one of the nuts on the strut tower. 3. Crank the car and you should see a spark jump. Results: If you have a spark that means ignition (breaker/points and coil) are ok and the problem is most likely distributor cap, rotor, or plug wires If you do not have a spark then the problem is coil or breaker/points or power to ignition system.

do you have spark at plugs?

Jode you are so kind and a great person, your mom and dad are proud Happy Father's Day to a great daughter!

The pulley turns clockwise as viewed from the front, so the first tick to sweep past the pointer should be 0 degrees with the others are at 5 degrees apart. In your photo, the top tick is 0. Maybe paint it yellow or red The painted link on the timing chain may or may not line up. It does not matter. Just get piston in highest position and two front cam lobes for cylinder #1 up- then you are good for TDC. You can put a screwdriver in plug hole #1 and watch the piston raise and push the screwdriver up as you turn the crank to double check TDC. You can go back and forth to get it perfectly at top