240260280z

You can use a mechanics stethoscope and find it quickly. It may be one of your accessories or even a fan clutch that is seized and the fan is hitting something. Beware of mechanics who try to look like Freddy Mercury.

You need a welder with car experience. Check yellow pages under welding. You can also check with the local car racing community. There are usually experts in the area who are much better than the shops and care about cars.

Here is a step-by-step I posted for your job: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?42420-77-280z-head-removal-step-by-step-photos To set TDC just put car in neutral, pull plugs and turn motor at crank using a big socket (27mm if I recall correctly) Turn the crank until the mark on the damper pulley matches with the "0" on the degree timing scale. Check to see that the two cam lobes for cylinder 1 are "relatively" pointing up. You have to remove oil cap and feel the lobes. You can check Cylinder #1 plug holeand should see the top of the cylinder.

As Arne says, it is your taste. I never liked the centre arms of Watanabe's and knock-offs (Rewinds) but I love the deep rim aspect of most. I never liked the Enkei Mesh style but liked the low mass design I never liked the slotted Mags or Centrelines. I never liked Diamond Racing wheels but like the fact they can be customized I love turbine style rims but hate cleaning them I love wire wheels but do not like the performance or cleaning them I love some newer rims like Bad Dog Parts (John Jeffrey's) tasteful performance. I love the look of some similar new rims but not the harsh ride, pounding of suspension, and toy Hot Wheels look: Here is example of cool but too big and Hot Wheels This one is better size: This too (My fav 'cause so deep): I do not like any of the stock Datsun rims. And don't forget the cool Cherry Blossoms when you want performance packaged with Hello Kitty cuddles: Here are some photos to enjoy: http://www.google.com/search?q=240z+wheels&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=isch&source=og&sa=N&hl=en&tab=wi&biw=1280&bih=713

Pics of bushing job on 280z throughout this site: http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/ Here is mustache bar example: http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/moustache/index.html

http://www.ecowelder.com/applications#!__videos Seems to weld any metal and also dissimilar metals as well as cutting, brazing and soldering.... smart Russians!

Bad damper pulley? Carbon on some pistons throwing off rotating mass balance? Coupled oscillator?

Inspect vent and return lines to the condensation chamber above rear wheel. Replace as needed. Address any rust above/near tank area.

The circuit is very simple: reference:http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/wiringdiagrams/72_240z_wiring.pdf 1. Battery voltage goes to ignition switch on WR (white with red stripe) wire to pin 3 on the ignition switch 2. In position 2R (Start) the switch applies voltage from pin 3 to pins 1 BY (Black stipe on Yellow) and 5 GW (Green stripe on White) 3. Pin 1 BY wire goes directly to the starter solenoid 4. Pin 5 GW applies voltage to the coil after passing through the tachometer and connecting to a BW (Black Stripe on White) wire Check the condition of the Black/Yellow (BY) wire and contacts from ignition switch to the starter.

It could simply be that the contacts in the ignition switch are worn and are acting intermittently. Try turning the key 100%, 95%, 90%,85%, 80% etc to full stop when you start the car. My 77 had this problem but it was different, if I turned the key all the way to full stop, the starter would turn but no spark. If I turned ~ 85% of the way I would get start and spark. You can easily replace this switch behind the key.

You can get the 1973 Factory Service Manual here: http://www.hammondsplains.com/fsm/ You can get the wiring diagram here: http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/electrical.htm

It is not the size of the master that is wrong. There is an adjustable part that allows you to control how far the rod in the clutch moves. If the rod is adjusted differently in the new part then that could be your problem and it can be solved by a simple adjustment and re-bleed. Here is some info to give you an overview: http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/clutchfreeplay/index.html To check the clutch disc, simply drive up a hill at low speed in 5th (or 4th if you have 4speed). A bad clutch will slip under load and the revs will go up but the speed will go down. It seems you have a hydraulic problem with master or slave.

I forgot fuel filter in the list of consumables You may also wish to check compression too.

Quick Checklist 0. Visual Inspection: belts, hoses, wiring, rodent damage/nesting 1. drain gas and flush tank with acetone. 2. drain oil 3. drain coolant and replace thermostat, flush out system with a garden hose (there is a drain on the block near cylinder 5 on drivers side). 4. pull plugs pour ATF or spray anti-seize (pb blaster/liquid wrench) into plug holes 5. turn motor at crank nose to ensure rings are not seized 6. remove valve cover, oil cam, remove oil bar, use canned carb cleaner and straw to spray all holes in oil bar to back flush 7. re-install oil bar, replenish oil, and crank engine with plugs out and watch for oil bar to start squirting. Make sure all holes are oiling the 12 cam lobes. 8. blow gas lines back into tank 9. replenish coolant and gas 10. crank and check for spark 11. Check electrical system. Voltage at battery should be 12.6 to 12.8 with car off and ~13-14.5V with car on . Also check for corrosion in wires and at fuse block. 12. Verify injector operation 13. Check fuel and brake system 14. Check suspension and wheels/tires 15. Start car and check gauges/engine function/exhaust/ cooling system/ charging (watch for burning wires in cabin, coolant leaks in system and in cabin) 16. Take on a few drives within pushing distance to your home and resolve any issues. (gunk in fuel tank may take a mile or two to clog the filters or fuel pickup!) Stuff you may need to replace: fluids plugs plug-wires coil distributor cap & rotor tires battery water pump air filter clutch slave (seals) rear wheel cylinders (seals) fuses Thermostat fuel filter

It may be that your L28 is de-rated through design due to smaller carb and smaller exhaust..... thus your results I found this cool cedric post with a nice satin blue http://retrorides.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=readersrides&action=print&thread=48875

Quick Checklist 0. Visual Inspection: belts, hoses, wiring, rodent damage/nesting 1. drain gas and flush tank with acetone. 2. drain oil 3. drain coolant and replace thermostat, flush out system with a garden hose (there is a drain on the block near cylinder 5 on drivers side). 4. pull plugs pour ATF or spray anti-seize (pb blaster/liquid wrench) into plug holes 5. turn motor at crank nose to ensure rings are not seized 6. remove valve cover, oil cam, remove oil bar, use canned carb cleaner and straw to spray all holes in oil bar to back flush 7. re-install oil bar, replenish oil, and crank engine with plugs out and watch for oil bar to start squirting. Make sure all holes are oiling the 12 cam lobes. 8. blow gas lines back into tank 9. replenish coolant and gas 10. crank and check for spark 11. overhaul carbs (clean lines, clean carb internals, check fuel flow and fuel bowl operation) set jet and needle 12. Check electrical system. Voltage at battery should be 12.6 to 12.8 with car off and ~13-14.5V with car on . Also check for corrosion in wires and at fuse block. 13. Check fuel and brake system 14. Check suspension and wheels/tires 15. Start car and check gauges/engine function/exhaust/ cooling system/ charging (watch for burning wires in cabin, coolant leaks in system and in cabin) 16. Take on a few drives within pushing distance to your home and resolve any issues. (gunk in fuel tank may take a mile or two to clog the carbs or fuel pickup!) Stuff you may need to replace: fluids plugs plug-wires coil distributor cap & rotor tires battery mechanical fuel pump water pump air filter clutch slave (seals) rear wheel cylinders (seals) fuses Thermostat

You can adjust the clutch-pedal-to-master-throw by turning the locking nut on the master cylinder's rod. It is possible that the new master's nut location or rod length is different from the original. (I hope no one every quotes that line out of context!) After you make an adjustment, redo the bleeding.

Yes, a stock tuned 280z is ~ 125-130HP at the rear wheels on a dyno. Here is a good read: http://www.zcar.com/car_talk_forum/my_z_dyno_pics_836239.0.html

So here is data: Stock exhaust and carbs: 60kw / 80hp Stock exhaust and Holley carb: 65kw / 87hp High flow exhaust and Holley carb: 80kw / 107hp But most tuned L28's 280z stock put ~ 95kw / 125 hp?

Most people don't seem use their turn indicators but when they do, why do some manufacturers cheap-out and not use orange plastic lens'? I never understood the safety issue being outweighed by penny pinching? Most of the world uses yellow for separate turn indicators and the human eye is much more sensitive to colours near yellow than red. Am I missing something or is it just cheap-arse manufacturers?

Please show us dyno data for stock and modded exhaust to make this post complete. I recall seeing graphs on zhome.com that showed ~ 4HP increase from stock.

Thanks All! Had a great time. I sat in Grandstand 15 Section 4 (south side) and was high enough to just see over the protective fence. Here is a photo I took of button on the sunny saturday before the wet race.

when "you can smell how fast you are going".

http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fuel/gastank/index.htm

There is a connector and fusible link that powers the whole EFI system (including ECU and injectors). The fusible link is in a small wire from the firewall that goes to the +pos battery terminal. There is a good chance it is loose at the connection or the fusible link in it blew. You can see the EFI Power Connector in the top two photos on this page: http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/electricalconnections/index.html The cable from the battery to the connector is the fusible link. The efi fusible link is circled in lower left of this photo. It is separate from the other fusible links that are bundled near the strut tower: