240260280z

Jet nozzle size (diameter of the drilled hole) is a tuning parameter. You can buy nozzles with different sizes. The fat SMmay work better in a larger nozzle than in a 0.100" standard nozzle .

hmmm......filter king eh? I tried a filter queen but its sucked.

I have a line on a 240z that I hope to see before I leave. Would you like photos of the interiors of engines of those cars? It is close to where I am working,

I'm not sure if these are of interest to anyone looking for parts. I have the owners contact details.

What media is in your tumbler(s)?

Dang I missed it. If anyone has a Mr K visor please pm me .

500mi is a ballpark number often used.

I recommend drinking the stuff: http://www.healthline.com/health/erectile-dysfunction/zinc

http://www.bbc.com/news/science-environment-32886000

Yes. It is nice here. The people are very friendly. I'll be here until ~ June 8th. I hope to see a 240z this weekend

Glad to help. I am now in Fiji.... one day I will be back in Panama!

Be sure to balance air after each adjustment using unisyn or flow gauge. The engine should be able to run on 3 cylinders when fuel and air is balanced. Repeat the test at 3000rpm then balance air then adjust fuel so that the rpms drop the same amount when you finger a carb.

You can have different turns on the jets due to mechanical differences, wear and user error. Getting all plugs to the same colour is a good goal. Also lifting the piston in the back carb with your finger and idling on the front 3 cylinders then doing the same and running on the rear 3 cylinders is a good balance check. We call it the equally shitty test.

The idle adjustment is really just a practice run at the procedure as well as getting your idle speed set and fuel in the ball park. The only things you can adjust on our carbs are: 1. Airflow at idle (butterfly stops) 2. Airflow balance at idle (butterfly stop difference between front and back) 3. Airflow balance off-idle (screw in connecting linkage) 4. Fuel flow at idle and off idle (jet height) 5. Fuel flow balance at idle and off idle (jet height difference between front and back) 6. Fuel flow transitions (damper oil) 7. Needle height vs rpm (spring pressure and weight of piston) 8. Fuel flow vs. needle height (needle taper)

Couldn't resist John! Just a few hundred meters north of the hotel.

A couple of tuning tricks: Fuel Level: The fuel level should be 20mm down from the bottom of the gasket that seals the roof. ZKars found this detail out as the 23mm is actually from the inside roof. 0 Turn Calibration: When setting the needle in the piston, remove the piston, turn the jets all the way up until they stop. You should see them flush or slightly above the bridge. Next pull the needle out so that the shoulder is ~ 3mm below the bottom of the piston and adjust the needle holding screw so that you can barely push the needle in by hand. Now with the needle out 3mm, place the piston back and force it down so the that the shoulder on the needle mates firm against the top of the jet when the piston is pushed all they way down. Now tighten the needle in this location. This procedure accurately sets "0 turns" for each carb with the nozzle and the jet at 0 gap. Idle Fuel and Balance: When setting the idle, disconnect linkage to carbs (pop a ball and socket on the vertical rod between the carbs) use unisyn to balance air flow with engine hot and jets at 2.5 turns down. Next disable the back carb by sticking your finger in and lifting the piston. the car should stumble along just running on the front 3 cylinders. If not lower the front jet 1/2 a turn to give the front carb more fuel and try again. Do this until you can stumble along on the front carb while disabling the back. Now repeat by disabling the front carb with your finger and try to get the jet height right for the back so that the car stumbles along on just the back 3 cylinders. Now rebalance the air with the unisyn and do fine adjustments repeating the finger disabling. Congrats you just balanced the carbs at idle which means nothing as you do not drive at idle ... but it is a start. Off-Idle Fuel and Balance: Reconnect the push rod so that the linkage is now in place. Turn the fast idle screw on the top of the linkage near the centre so that the carbs are at 3000rpm. (It will sound very exciting.) Read the air flow to the front carb then match this to the back carb by adjusting the balance adjuster screw near the back carb (the screw is on the linkage between the carbs). Next note the RPMS then disable the rear carb and note the rpms of just running on the front. Repeat this but disable the front and note the rpms on the rear. Adjust the fuel jets so that the rpm drop is the same for both front and rear carb. Congrats, you just adjusted your car for driving. Tweaks Since you may have adjusted for a nice balance BUT you may be a bit rich or lean, drive the car and read the plugs. turn both jets up or down the same amount until the colour and performance looks good. Repeat the off-idle balance test. USING Wide band (reading all 6 cylinders together) When setting the jet height at idle and doing the disable trick, aim for ~ 14.5 at idle on both carbs and ~29 when running on just the front three and ~ 29 when running on the back three When setting the jet height off-idle and doing the disable trick, aim for <14 at 3000rpm on both carbs and ~26 when running on just the front three and ~ 26 when running on the back three. I can't recall the exact numbers but the point is that the reading for the front 3 and the back 3 should be the same to balance the fuel. Follow up with road tests to ensure a/f is normal for idle, cruise and driving under load. No worries if you have problems with your 2nd hand carbs, I can bring a set of carbs out or parts when I visit in June. Just let me know.

yes try 2.5 turns. The plugs are not bad, just a little rich.

I like to clean the two posts then permanently solder a scavenged 6" pig tail to these posts. I then seal the posts. The end of the pigtail will have a water proof connector. The end of the harness that goes out through the hatch floor gets the other end of the water proof connector spliced, soldered, and sealed.

FYI Passini does not like the unwanted effects of balance tubes on intakes. "The small advantage a balance passage between the barrels of a DCOE carburettor might give at idling speed is more than offset by disadvantages at other times."

In another thread I posted an idea of running a cable from the fast idle lever in the cabin to the mechanical vacuum advance lever on the Z. the idea would be to pull the lever to reduce advance at start, then push it forward to increase advance once started. This would reduce the kick back on the piston when starting and the piston is moving to slow to reach TDC before the explosion pushes it.

Looking forward to seeing you again Bruce! Janet will be there and you will finally meet her. She was sick as a dog when she came to NJ.

Maybe just sit in the back seat?

Soldering aluminum pin gauges in situ then pulling may be a nice technique.

I'll be in Fiji for the next two weeks. I may have time in my trip to turn wrenches on a weekend or coffee on a weekday evening. Sadly I only pass through Australia where many Z friends live. Here is the only Z pic I can find in Fiji:

Yup 2mm shave of N47 gave 32cc & CR 10.2