240260280z

Well something is in the air. I just picked up some 328i seats for Blue and the trip to Memphis.

Wish I was in Alabama with 5k in my pocket.... a fun drive home.

Maybe check your fuel pressure gauge? Can you block off the return fuel path (dead-head configuration) and set the fuel pressure to 3.5 psi and see what happens? This is the dead head config:

Great post! It is like a virtual museum! FYI Passini does not like the unwanted effects of balance tubes on intakes. "The small advantage a balance passage between the barrels of a DCOE carburettor might give at idling speed is more than offset by disadvantages at other times."

I am just running numbers presently. The VW 88mm 2.9L design and the Isuzu 88mm 3.0L design are alternative enhancements whose priority is to use as much of the stock components (especially HG). The 88mm allows for boring of nearly any block without worry.The VW 88mm allows for improved performance with just a piston swap and some machining.The use of stock rods in the Isuzu Stroker saves having to hunt L24 9mm rods.The VW and Isuzu pistons are not expensive.The squish works well with stock HG and P90/79 headsNo need for expensive HG's from Japan The only extra work is rod small end enlargement to accommodate 22mm wrist pins. They can be pressed or floating. Offset boring the small end helps to lower VW piston deck height to allow for a 1mm offset grind of the crank for more stroke. Of course the 3.0litre requires the LD-28 crank. Offset grinding the crank with the Isuzu piston gives 3.07 litres @ 9.86CR and still keeps a great squish if the small end bore is offset south 0.5mm I plan to build the VW version this year. I also have the kit to do a traditional KA-24/L24Rod/LD-28 stroker. The isuzu will happen if I ever come across another LD-28 crank.

I can only find cast but I did not dig much.

There is a Vulcan amongst us!

Just reviewing the thread: I just looked at the vids for the first time. nice stuff I see throat #3 spit 12 seconds into the first video when the rpms rise. Is this the throat that had the main jet separate (mentioned above)? Also, the return line connected between carbs 2 & 3 could be causing the different fuel levels in carb 3. Try to get a "T" on carb 3 and pull the return after that one. In the interim, you could try closing the return at the T between 2 and 3 so that there is no return to teh tank. If your fuel pressure is ~ 3psi you should be fine for testing. You should also spray starter fluid around all of the carb to manifold spacers to make sure no leaks are present.

Too much fuel consumption and dark plugs are caused by: jets too large fuel level too high fuel pressure too high Seems like we have been here earlier. Start from the basics again.

Piston Mfgr: Silvolite L4-119 Application: Isuzu 82-85 G200Z (Chev S15 LR-1) Flat Piston 88mm (87+1mm over) 22mm Wrist Pin 36.52mm Compression height Will work nicely (great squish) with stock L28 rod, LD28 crank, and stock Felpro HG. Gives 3.03 litre @ 9.75CR

Glad to help. We are SK brothers! I think it is key to get the cruise first then work out the WOT and idle. For cruise, the progression holes and top of the emulsion tube are the active parts. Fuel level changes will affect these for "tuning". It will be good to rule out the accelerator just in case.

The fuel outlets at the bottom of the fuel bowl that feed the accelerator circuit. You have to go fishing to get them our. Just replace with bolts and the accelerator circuit is taken out of the picture.

Glad the air hole exploration helped a bit in understanding the interactions. I have a theory that small chokes (thick) come in proximity of the partially opened throttle valve causing a venturi effect in that region (also where the accelerator pump sticks out) and pull fuel from the accelerator circuit. You may wish to close the 3 spill jets with bolts to see if the cruise will be tamed. You could also try lowering the fuel level to lower the rich cruise then address the jets.

Could be dirt obstruction in #6. #5 & #6 share same fuel bowl so it should be bad on both if it was fuel rail/pressure. Swap the idle and main jets from barrel #6 with barrel #1 for shitz N gigglez

88mm pistons are now in the country. I should have them in a week. In the mean time I have been refining the design concept. I just rang the shop and they can offset grind the crank by 1mm to 80mm and do the machining for the rod ends. I'm looking at 2.92 litre with 9.4 compression ratio and optimal squish with a standard 88.9mm Felpro gasket. It will be basically a mini stroker of 88mm X 80mm that works with existing rods, crank and block as well as a standard felpro head gasket. It will have optimized squish. The longer stroke and larger bore will increase torque but not require the expensive HG, LD crank, and longer 240z rods of a typical 89mm X 83mm stroker. It will have ~ 6% less displacement than a 3.1 litre stroker.

Looks great! Glad you like using the tap set.

I wonder if the rot that sometimes happens on the aluminium fittings for the radiator is also related?

Read the field problem observations: http://www.dieselduck.info/machine/01%20prime%20movers/coolant_voltage.htm

I just found a diesel mfgr's report on a similar path and the damage it causes including pitting. I bet you are right in your observation.

I saw an electrical strap in parallel with an add-on alternator adjuster. The purpose was to ensure the electrical return path to the alternator was maintained. This made me wonder first about galvanic corrosion of the timing cover bolts (as they are probably the current path from the block to the alternator as the timing cover is insulated by the gasket. But... after more thought, the alternator is also bolted at the bottom to the block. I am guessing that adding a copper strap from the battery ground at the transmission/starter area directly to the alternator would be a useful modification to reduce electrical currents in the block. Anyone have more insight on this?

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I like the foil backed duct tape. Wash all piping. Vinegar kills mold. Seal everything. Lubricate all moving parts and cable internals.

Great exploratory work! When you look a weber idle jet you will note the number and size of air holes and the size of the cavity where the air and fuel mixes/exits vary. Later idle jets have a new 3mm mixing cavity/exit added. I'm not sure what the larger cavity effect is but it is something I wanted to explore. I have a feeling Weber changed all later jets to 3mm for a reason. You now have 55F8's running rich at cruise so there are two more areas to tweak: 1. You may want to drill out the single 1.2mm air hole on the side of the jet to ~1.5mm first. Then, if needed, drill to ~1.7mm to lean the cruise. 2. You may want to enlarge the mixing cavity to 3mm to see what happens (very exploratory). Finally, since the mixed fuel and air out of the idle jet has an awkward trip through the holder, then through passages , then through the progression holes and around the idle enrichment valve, it is difficult to imagine non-orifice changes in the jet will make a big differences when the fuel eventually reaches the manifold. Changes to the holder (with 4 holes) are also worth exploring.... drilling 8 holes or enlarging the existing 4 holes are possible exploratory items.