240260280z

Could be dirt obstruction in #6. #5 & #6 share same fuel bowl so it should be bad on both if it was fuel rail/pressure. Swap the idle and main jets from barrel #6 with barrel #1 for shitz N gigglez

88mm pistons are now in the country. I should have them in a week. In the mean time I have been refining the design concept. I just rang the shop and they can offset grind the crank by 1mm to 80mm and do the machining for the rod ends. I'm looking at 2.92 litre with 9.4 compression ratio and optimal squish with a standard 88.9mm Felpro gasket. It will be basically a mini stroker of 88mm X 80mm that works with existing rods, crank and block as well as a standard felpro head gasket. It will have optimized squish. The longer stroke and larger bore will increase torque but not require the expensive HG, LD crank, and longer 240z rods of a typical 89mm X 83mm stroker. It will have ~ 6% less displacement than a 3.1 litre stroker.

Looks great! Glad you like using the tap set.

I wonder if the rot that sometimes happens on the aluminium fittings for the radiator is also related?

Read the field problem observations: http://www.dieselduck.info/machine/01%20prime%20movers/coolant_voltage.htm

I just found a diesel mfgr's report on a similar path and the damage it causes including pitting. I bet you are right in your observation.

I saw an electrical strap in parallel with an add-on alternator adjuster. The purpose was to ensure the electrical return path to the alternator was maintained. This made me wonder first about galvanic corrosion of the timing cover bolts (as they are probably the current path from the block to the alternator as the timing cover is insulated by the gasket. But... after more thought, the alternator is also bolted at the bottom to the block. I am guessing that adding a copper strap from the battery ground at the transmission/starter area directly to the alternator would be a useful modification to reduce electrical currents in the block. Anyone have more insight on this?

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I like the foil backed duct tape. Wash all piping. Vinegar kills mold. Seal everything. Lubricate all moving parts and cable internals.

Great exploratory work! When you look a weber idle jet you will note the number and size of air holes and the size of the cavity where the air and fuel mixes/exits vary. Later idle jets have a new 3mm mixing cavity/exit added. I'm not sure what the larger cavity effect is but it is something I wanted to explore. I have a feeling Weber changed all later jets to 3mm for a reason. You now have 55F8's running rich at cruise so there are two more areas to tweak: 1. You may want to drill out the single 1.2mm air hole on the side of the jet to ~1.5mm first. Then, if needed, drill to ~1.7mm to lean the cruise. 2. You may want to enlarge the mixing cavity to 3mm to see what happens (very exploratory). Finally, since the mixed fuel and air out of the idle jet has an awkward trip through the holder, then through passages , then through the progression holes and around the idle enrichment valve, it is difficult to imagine non-orifice changes in the jet will make a big differences when the fuel eventually reaches the manifold. Changes to the holder (with 4 holes) are also worth exploring.... drilling 8 holes or enlarging the existing 4 holes are possible exploratory items.

MC's web site sucks for hyperlinks...

This one? http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-plastic-and-rubber-tubing/=wycgza

Glad to help. Have fun rebuilding and please don't be shy to share any advice! I often find posts I made many years ago that help me again... old man memory creeping in! So all info is helpful. With respect to knowledge and sharing the z community is pretty special... especially this forum. Lots of practical thinking people here with no attitudes....and even the odd unlikable ones here are likeable

fyi http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/50679-rebuilding-the-nikki-fuel-pump/

http://newyork.craigslist.org/lgi/cto/4992290240.html

I read in a Datsun book that it was common for 240z owners in hot regions to carry a thermos of ice water to pour on the mechanical fuel pump when heat soak set in following a stop. Not sure how accurate this was but another piece of data.

I've used concrete floors in a pinch.

Co ! you from fill-lee bro. U bedda watch yo mouth.

These threads make me hungry for pub food.

I love happy endings!

I agree Stanley, try a thicker oil to tame the transition and make it richer during transition.

Here is a great 510 thread for 2 litre 4 cylinders needle mods: http://community.ratsun.net/topic/57757-needle-modification-for-l20b-sus/page-3 IF you had 3 SU's these needles would be close

Did the finder get the $10k reward?