240260280z

My tool bars for editing never worked. They are greyed out. Attached images also get resized smaller and lower resolution. Often this kills technical drawings purpose.

I always wondered who Mr. Lube was.... now we know

Nope the chokes come out the front where the air horns are. I now have a lathe and plan to make some special chokes in the summer so I may be able to make you a set then if the experiments go well.

yes it is now below 3 ' deep. Hopefully it will be melted in a week. Temps forecast to be above freezing

Debris that made it to the filters at the carb inlets.

Cliff's neighbour's kid used to dump gravel through the filler door when he wasn't around.

36mm Chokes will work great at WOT but may not promote air velocity at lower throttle driving and may delay the main circuit from starting. 2.8 litre main jets seem to range from ~125 as a starting point. I will be tuning a 2.8 liter DCOE40 for a friend this weekend and will have some data for you. It has 30mm chokes. Here is a great L28 triple carb read to get you going: http://datsunzgarage.com/weber/

Try to get them all the same as a starting point. The next step would be to have a look at idle jets (as fuel level and advance are known and ok). 1. Clean the plugs, turn the idle enrichment screws to 1 turn out and try and idle the car. (1 turn as I am assuming the idle jets are too big). 2. Balance the air then let it idle for 5 min then read the plugs to see if they look better. ----If so then your idle jets are too large. ----If not then turn the enrichment screws out to 1.5 turns and repeat 3. If you plugs look OK ~ 1.5 to 2.5 turns then your idle jets are reasonable. After the above tests we can move to main jetting.

I helped a friend with the same symptoms. Turned out to be debris in the tank moving around and plugging the pickup. Drain the tank and see what comes out. there is a drain plug bolt in the centre. Have a few pans ready to catch the gas and a large pail to transfer the gas to after one pan fills up. If you run the fuel down by driving it is less headache. btw the fact it happens when hot and cold indicates debris.

2004 instruction from the great Norm on Zcar.com ~2004 Directions on how to resurface rocker arms For those that would like to save some money and reuse your old Nissan rocker arms when installing new cams, I have posted the complete instructions below. If you are not a GOOD mechanic then you may be better off having a professional resurface your arms for you. Start with a flat surface and about five different grades of emery paper and a bottle of WD40 or liquid wrench and a bottle of Brake Cleaner. Start with 180 grit emery paper placed on a hard EVEN flat surface and liberally spray down the paper with liquid wrench or WD40 and then work the unworn raised end edges of the rocker arm pad down in a sideways motion until the edges are even with the rest of the rocker arm pad. DON'T go to far and create a dip. Check often on your progress and stop when the old ridge is even with the worn part of the contact pad . Use a different FRESH part of the emery paper EACH TIME you start with a different rocker arm. This will ensure uniformity. Do all twelve rocker arms in this fashion and spray all the rocker arms off completely with Brake cleaner to remove all emery grit and then switch to 220 grit sprayed liberally with liquid wrench or WD40. Next, in a rolling motion pull the rocker arm towards you across the 220 grit being sure that the entire surface of the rocker arm contact pad touches the emery paper at some time during the rolling motion.DO NOT go back and forth.Start at the same end each time and pull the rocker arm towards you. Use a different FRESH part of the emery paper EACH TIME you start with a different rocker arm. This will ensure uniformity. After a number of pulls after which all 12 rocker arm pad contact surfaces look new and even across the entire surface, switch to 320 grit and repeat cycle and then switch to 400 grit and finish off with 600 grit. Note: sometimes there will be pin holes on the rocker arm contact surfaces form past usage. DO NOT worry about getting these out as they will not harm the cam. Keep the emery paper sprayed down with liquid wrench or WD40 at all times and use a different FRESH part of the emery paper EACH TIME you start with a different rocker arm. This will ensure uniformity. . Also, smooth the rocker arm tips where they contact the lash pads in the same manner as described for the rocker arm contact patch and then fully clean the rocker arms with Brake cleaner until NO trace of grit remains anywhere! Smooth the sharp lengthwise edges of the rocker arm contact patch and the rocker arm tip that rides on the lash pad to eliminate stress risers so that there is a very , very slight rolled edge. This is done in the same manner as described above but while holding the arm at a 45 degree angle and is done just to take the sharp edge off. Don't let the now smooth rocker arm contact patch be marred. MAKE certain you FULLY clean EVERY little piece of grit from the rocker arms.Get a Bottle of Brake cleaner and hold the rocker lengthwise and soak it down until it is 100% clean. Failure to FULLY clean ALL GRIT from EVERY nook and cranny will result in cam damage! I used this exact method when I installed my new Crane cam over 80,000 miles ago and both cam and rocker arms still look good today.Make sure and use the cam break in lube and directions whenever installing a new cam. BTW, do not use Crane rocker arms as they are WAY inferior to Nissan and can break in half under extreme rpm.I know this from personal experience! Later,norm

Have fun prepping the other two and use the best. If you want to drive fast just use the prepped one when it arrives.

Stephen, now you need a 510!!!!

I'd like to surface harden but I'm not sure how much or how to. Some sort of eddy current device would be nice. I am guessing the inserted pad in the rocker is of a special alloy that helps. What ever was on the small surface was worn off or compressed at least 0.002" btw thanks for saying nice work... from you that means a lot for machined stuff!

I'm sending you all three

Some pics of cleaning up a rocker. Here is what a "good" used rocker looks like. It has had a lot of quality time with the cam and polished to shine with smooth undulations in the surface. Not much surface for holding oil when so shiny like chrome. Here are the 3 best rockers out of a used set of 12. I refreshed the worst of the 3 by using a flat slab of marble and sand paper. I measured variance to be 0.001" across the surface's peak. The front (engine side) is where the drop off is. It was interesting that simply placing the rocker on the flat surface gave the results; so it seems the machining surfaces are parallel (see below) and registered off the bottom of the rocker. Pulling the rocker towards me with 500, 600 then 800 grit accomplished the following: I did the same for the lash pad side. I took off the ridge and the surface's peak was measured to be less than a thou. across the surface. The ridge (the silver square is actually indented) took a while at 500 grit to remove. To finish, I washed thoroughly with detergent to remove all abrasive then coated with Clevite 77 break-in lube.

is fuel level measured from the ledge or from the bottom of the fuel bowl? if the back carb is 31mm down from the ledge then the fuel level has to come UP to 29mm. If this is the case then your observation of the last carb spitting is right and is probably due to it being leaner. However all your plugs looked rich so if spark and fuel is ok then you should change jets.

I have a batch of very weak nitric acid to be used for a final dip to brighten the part. I have not started plating yet but I did a lot of reading and it seemed to be a useful final step. I did crude plating a few years back and it worked fine but the finish was dull.

Has anyone tried VW seats in a Z? I'm looking for something comfortable, adjustable and modern for the trek to Memphis. I was impressed with my friends VW seats. Thx

Is your last name Leno?

I think the oer gauge registers from the ledge where the main jet assembly screws in. For a tube/straw alternate method, you may wish to put a mark or ring on the straw so that it registers from the ledge......or just bottom it out and ensure all three are the same level. The fuel level from the ledge should be 31mm to 27mm down. It is something you can adjust to tune. Just make sure all 3 carbs have the same level. Repeat the measurement a few times so that the straw measurement is accurate enough for your liking. Take pics to make a tach tip for all when you nail it.

I drank the Kool aid and wasted a lot of time because of following his guessing. I expected more based on his writing and credentials but was let down and had to dig out of the hole I jumped in.

fuel level adjuster How to measure fuel level with oer tool (a pipette may work the same if you bottom it the same in all carbs. http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/47089-sk-racing-carbs/?p=432407 how to measure with caliper (ignore the 25mm bs from Keith Franke that I stupidly parroted):

Your timing seems ok. For SK's there is a screw for lowering the fuel. There is a gauge like an eye dropper you can experiment with. A pipette may do the trick. You could probably dip a stick or the end of a caliper to measure fuel depth. The carbs should not leak.

Flush with canned carb cleaner to improve flow. Use the straw to spay into holes. After it is clean, inspect for cracks/ failures of the joints.