240260280z
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Everything posted by 240260280z
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https://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/cto/4966042617.html -
Beautiful Moelk! Blue w White is pretty. Looks like Dunlop Princess Margaret wheels? The front valence with blanked lights and the upper turn indicators on the bumpers is unique. I guess the lack of Datsun on the fenders/wings is also Euro spec. ? What is the device on the rear bumper below the plate? What about all of the electrics on the passenger inner fender? Looks interesting.
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I can see the rear passenger tail light on two of 3 buried cars. And that is all I can see.
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Fake ruler:
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Some interesting tools now seem to be available from autozone. Example: http://www.autozone.com/test-scan-and-specialty-tools/valve-spring-tester http://www.autozone.com/test-scan-and-specialty-tools/top-dead-center-stop-tool http://www.autozone.com/test-scan-and-specialty-tools/piston-ring-tool/proform-12-volts-electric-piston-ring-filer/525530/?_requestid=10232353 http://www.autozone.com/test-scan-and-specialty-tools/valve-seal-tool/comp-cams-valve-seal-installation-tool/892690_0_0/
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Remove valve cover, pull plugs, then crank with remote starter. Watch oil flow to rule it out. If you are getting good oil on that lobe/rocker, then it is most likely the rocker. This sadly happened to me not so long ago: http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/47101-cam-wear/ Here are some observations: Contact area is OK and it is "cheated" for more lift. As the lobe rocks across the rocker surface, it starts parallel (raising valve) but finishes (lowering valve) with more pressure on the firewall side of the rocker. The radiator side seems to be ground lower from the middle of the contact patch to the passenger side of the contact patch and the finishing pattern is not parallel to the starting pattern. This is also evident in the wear on the cam lobe's valve lowering face being more to the firewall side.
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What emulsion tube do you have?
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Temptation to be a hypocrite: https://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0CB4QFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.autosportlabs.net%2FMegaJolt_Lite_Jr.&ei=V94eVd7TK8L2yQSdrYKgCw&usg=AFQjCNGpJIB15_DVs_6XxY1CunXyN3vGkA&bvm=bv.89947451,d.aWw I want one with carbs later this year.
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just keep all of the original parts and put back to original form when you sell. Keep all nuts, bolts, washers, wires, parts etc. You can even swap motors... just keep original for later.
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New emulsion tubes if you don't want to play with yours.
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It is difficult to see this in your plots above. Most of the data is below 14 apart from when you shift. If you are really going lean on the dyno then consider: Raising the fuel level or closing the holes on the higher end of your emulsion tubes above the fuel level to bring main fuel in earlier.
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thanks! I was able to get just the pistons from a vw site in western Canada. Now I'm trying to determine whether to go with floating or pressed.
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For the archives, I found the low compression variant (thanks steve): 38.0mm compression height: http://www.geneberg.com/cat.php?cPath=1_2668 I just ordered the 39.5mm ones and will shave to fit... a new build begins.
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Mr. Catayama approved.
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bp6es is fine. Adjust your jets so that all plugs look like this after a 5min run on the highway up to Colón at 130km/hr Pull over every 5 min and adjust jets until you get close like this: or [brand new plug] or
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I bought used 280z style with amber from Japan for $300 in 2005.
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