240260280z

concur

Great point about the friendly folks here. Compared to what zcar.com has become and what HybidZ has always been, you make a great point. Mike you should update the header on the page to: ClassicZCars.com "The friendly Z car site"

1. turbo 2. overbore 3. stroke 4. head and cam

I have to refresh and install the electrical system for a friend's 73 so I'll have photos of the harness in a month.

Most 280z problems seem to be dirty electrical connections!

The early 77 used the switch in the AFM to shut the fuel pump off. The logic was that if the car crashed, the engine would stop and not draw air. These caused the AFM door to shut and open the contacts in the switch that send +12V to the fuel pump. Later 77's used a pressure switch on the oil pressure sensor (next to oil filter). The logic was that if the car crashed, the engine would stop and not pump oil. This caused the pressure to drop and open the contacts in the switch that send +12V to the fuel pump.

Sorry. If you are on 3 now, stay there and do the full 4 stroke rotation (2 turns at the crank). be sure to stop exactly at the TDC mark on the damper then check the cam mark.

With the cam on #2 and the chain back on the cam, just torque the cam nut and related (washers eccentric, etc) then you are safe to pull the screw driver/wedge. Next rotate the crank around CW twice until you are seeing 0 on the TDC damper mark then look at the marks on the CAM to see cam timing.

Often they will seat better after running a while. You are on your way !

Its water under the bridge so I did not want to bring up however since it has, it looks like the fuel level was too high and caused the mid band (cruise) and high RPM to be too rich. There is not much you can do to tune it out except lower fuel level or change emulsion tubes. I did the same thing at 25mm down. 27-29 looks like it should work better.

KAMMY's GREAT TUTORIAL SAVED: https://web.archive.org/web/20080720024048/http://www.picturetrail.com/gallery/view?p=12&uid=786489&gid=1803105

EFI on early 77's has a vane switch on the AFM that sometimes does not work properly. It it one of those things that you can pop the cover off and watch it work (or not) when a friend cranks the car.

It would be cool to put a real wheel shifter and pedal on it

Send all your quarters to Jim! Maybe bring it to Zcon as a contest and cash out on all of us nuts who will compete. Don't bering it home like this:

Thanks a million. That helps a lot. How snappy was the car when driving?

Great stuff! it will help others. Do you recall what the fuel level was set too?

http://www.kijiji.ca/v-video-games-consoles-other/calgary/midway-280-zzzap-arcade-game/1056083759?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true

Pros: 1. It will give more overlap. 2. less tools for adjusting () Cons: Since the exhaust valve will heat faster than the intake, it will elongate faster and lose lash faster. This effect will be more significant on a cold motor at start up. The aluminium head will elongate more than the steel valves (at the same temperature) but the coolant inside the head limit it compared to the exhaust valve that is not cooled. When the engine comes up to temperature, the head and the valves will have elongated to their equilibrium states thus a valve lash adjustment on a hot head is somewhat more "real world". By having a greater lash, like stock, the exhaust valve will experience more "slamming shut force" so this will help to deal with carbon build-up than a valve with a tighter lash.

No cool valves & No hot hands way: 1. You can quickly measure when hot then note the ones out-of-spec and by how much. 2. When the engine cools, re-measure just the ones out of spec and adjust by the out-of-spec amount. If you can't measure quickly and worry about cooling valves, just do the intakes in one hot/cold session then the exhaust in another.

you could loosen all valve lashes quick and dirty (just back off the adjusters a full turn in ). This will make sure the valves seat at maximum and break off any carbon when you do another compression test. It will give you a better idea of what is going on.

Is the fuel pump stopping? Listen by the passenger wheel well to see if it is the problem. This is a weird one.

Thanks John, Maybe I'll go for your set and be done with it if they are flat tops and for sale? Thanks!

If it continues to be electrical, it could be a condenser heating up and shorting. It happened to my 83 Tercel 4X4. Ignition module is the usual suspect but condensers can cause the same problem. You can simply disconnect them to test. Debris in fuel tank can also cause the car to die.

Who can argue with TonyD? The guy is an encyclopaedia and genius! VW pistons: http://www.aapistons.com/products/vw-88mm-type-1-piston-kit 88mm bore (so standard HG will work) Looks like 22mm wrist pins too. 39.5mm Compression height/Pin height (Stock 280z is 38.1 so 1.4mm above deck to deal with). felpro 88.9dia headgasket with 1.1mm compression will reduce the piston height to 0.3mm above head gasket A 0.9mm shave will give ~ 0.6mm quench as per the recommended 0.56mm to 0.64mm clearance Compression will be ~ 9.4

FYI http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/springs/index.html