240260280z

It looks like the steel valve has sunken into the bronze seat already. You can see the ridge left by it. It would be good to change the intake seats.

Looks like you are off to a great start. It is rare to see such a fine shell!

looks great!

This will make you happy: http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/47234-af-monitoring-points-info/

Thanks Christopher! 3607 looks like if falls in the batch made in Jan 1970. L24-2747 Nov-69 L24-2837 Dec-69 L24 original Jan-70 L24-3284 Jan-70 L24 Jan-70 L24-3260 Jan-70 L24-3205 Jan-70 L24 Original Jan-70 L24 Jan-70 L24-3532 Jan-70 L24-3295 Jan-70 Unknown Jan-70 L24-2791 Jan-70 L24-3324 Jan-70 L24-original TBC Jan-70 L24-3939 Jan-70 Jan-70 L24-3833 Jan-70 L24 Original Jan-70 L24-3785 Jan-70 L24 Original Jan-70 L24-3959 Jan-70 L24-4008 Jan-70 L24-4056 Jan-70 L24-3731 Jan-70 L24-4030 Jan-70 L24 Jan-70 L24 Original Jan-70 L24 Original Jan-70 L24-4738 Feb-70 L24-4784 Feb-70 L24-3199 Jan-70 L24-2900 Jan-70 L28 Jan-70 L24-3429 Jan-70 L24-3493 Jan-70 L24 Original Jan-70 L24-3325 Jan-70 Jan-70 L24-4042 Jan-70 L24-4080 Jan-70 L24-3559 Jan-70 L24-4220 Jan-70 L24-4375 Feb-70 L24-5164 Mar-70 L28 Feb-70 L28 Feb-70 L24-4611 Feb-70 L24-5055 Feb-70 L24 Original Feb-70 L24-4820 Feb-70

Fred, do you know up to what s/n for hls-30's this was the case? Also would you know when did the crank design change? Thanks a million!

I think the sniffer in the pipe is the most flexible. As well it is where emissions tests are done. The tail pipe a/f follows the same values at the header in time. The only difference is that some dilution occurs and transients are smoothed out.

Ditto for Beermanpete!

http://www.fourwheeler.com/features/1504-1976-baja-500-international-winners-hourglass/

bty both modules work the same. If you use the extra connector on the turbo unit,, you get less advance when activating it. If you do not use it then no worries.

Yes you can swap them. Just two wires (red and green) to connect/disconnect. Note: The vacuum canisters may differ and give different amounts of advance but you can swap those too.

Hi Kats, There is a similar muffler on this page: http://motor.geocities.jp/atakausa/Details.html It says "original". And one here which you may recall: http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/29865-original-muffler-question/ And another: http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/44949-nice-survivor/ I hope it helps!

Explosions in the intake is no way to treat new webers on first cranking.

Yamaha developed early L engines for Nissan according to this: http://www.earlydatsun.com/nissana680x.html and this http://www.earlydatsun.com/nissan130mk1.html

You found the problem. It is the ignition unit. Here is how to upgrade as you rightly suggest. Www.Atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/distributor

Is that obidos in the first photo? I saw an orange 210 or similar at the base when visiting.

L28 basic knowledge is how to align mechanical timinig. Is rebello outsourcing to datsun llc? This is disgusting to hear.

in "Datsun Discovery": http://beyondspock.tumblr.com/tagged/All_My_Life_I've_Been_a_Searcher

Kats, you are an honorary Canadian!

It may be an alternative to ceramic piston coatings if it has longevity. It would be great if it could be applied to glass.

Some reference material: http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/41332-understanding-a-weber-side-draft-carburetor-through-a-fictional-supposition/ http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/47089-sk-racing-carbs/?p=447754 https://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=2&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0CCUQFjAB&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.classiczcars.com%2Findex.php%3Fapp%3Dcore%26module%3Dattach%26section%3Dattach%26attach_id%3D45109&ei=vrbwVP7jI8KdNqmag6AD&usg=AFQjCNHvDF_Pcf7lc4gwCFPgrpN9YfxubQ&bvm=bv.87269000,d.eXY http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/44405-dcoe-documents/ http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/43089-tuning-40-dcoe-weber-151-on-an-l24/

FYI: Here is an easy way to compare your #50 to #60: Jet comparing at Idle Turn out your idle screws to 2 turns and do not change.... then adjust the throttle valve stops to attain an idle of 900rpm or 950rpm or 1000rpm (forget the eyeballing through the progression holes). then measure your a/f ratios for each jet set (this way you are comparing apples to apples). If your do this same measurements at 1.5 turns and 2.5 turns, you can plot your nice set of results to accurately see the differences between your jets. Repeat at different fuel levels (29mm and 31mm) to get an idea of how much fuel level also impacts the data. By doing the above exercise, you better understand the interactions and prepare yourself for road tuning: ROAD TUNING Grab a friend and have him record the a/f ratios at different RPM's as you drive: For setting cruise, hold 35mph on a long flat and measure. Adjust the fuel level and/or change the idle jet to get your desired A/F cruise target (i.e. 15-16.5 typically for economy). Once you get this dialed in, double back and set your idle enrichment screw and throttle valve stops again to get your idle where you want it (i.e. 13.5 to 14.5 for smooth idle is common). Then recheck your cruise A/F again at 35mph on a flat as the idle enrichment screw will affect cruise it a little. Next road tune up a long grade. Hold for 5sec at 2000rpm, 3000rpm, 4000rpm, 5000rpm and 6000rpm while your buddy records the a/f ratio. Your main jet and emulsion tube will be the main players from 3500rpm to 6000rpm. Since you probably don't want to mess with E tubes, change your main to get the right A/F at 4000rpm then change the air to keep the same a/f as you get towards 6000. Repeat but at WOT runs to make sure the mains are not leaning. The air jet size will lean or enrich the high rpms depending on which you use. If you are starting to run lean at WOT, stop testing and change your main jet. Running lean at WOT is not good for the engine. Aim for 13 to 13.5 for WOT from 3500 to 6500 (yes red line it) Have fun!

Adam. I re-checked a site that tunes OER's and the sweetshop for the idle enrichment screw is 2 turns out with +/- half a turn elbow room (so your should aim for an idle jet that works within 1.5 to 2.5 turns) Check table 4 here: http://www.carry-back.com/CARRY%20BACK%20Carbu%20setting%204.htm

Looks a bit like a Mustang if you squint just right.