240260280z

in "Datsun Discovery": http://beyondspock.tumblr.com/tagged/All_My_Life_I've_Been_a_Searcher

Kats, you are an honorary Canadian!

It may be an alternative to ceramic piston coatings if it has longevity. It would be great if it could be applied to glass.

Some reference material: http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/41332-understanding-a-weber-side-draft-carburetor-through-a-fictional-supposition/ http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/47089-sk-racing-carbs/?p=447754 https://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=2&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0CCUQFjAB&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.classiczcars.com%2Findex.php%3Fapp%3Dcore%26module%3Dattach%26section%3Dattach%26attach_id%3D45109&ei=vrbwVP7jI8KdNqmag6AD&usg=AFQjCNHvDF_Pcf7lc4gwCFPgrpN9YfxubQ&bvm=bv.87269000,d.eXY http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/44405-dcoe-documents/ http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/43089-tuning-40-dcoe-weber-151-on-an-l24/

FYI: Here is an easy way to compare your #50 to #60: Jet comparing at Idle Turn out your idle screws to 2 turns and do not change.... then adjust the throttle valve stops to attain an idle of 900rpm or 950rpm or 1000rpm (forget the eyeballing through the progression holes). then measure your a/f ratios for each jet set (this way you are comparing apples to apples). If your do this same measurements at 1.5 turns and 2.5 turns, you can plot your nice set of results to accurately see the differences between your jets. Repeat at different fuel levels (29mm and 31mm) to get an idea of how much fuel level also impacts the data. By doing the above exercise, you better understand the interactions and prepare yourself for road tuning: ROAD TUNING Grab a friend and have him record the a/f ratios at different RPM's as you drive: For setting cruise, hold 35mph on a long flat and measure. Adjust the fuel level and/or change the idle jet to get your desired A/F cruise target (i.e. 15-16.5 typically for economy). Once you get this dialed in, double back and set your idle enrichment screw and throttle valve stops again to get your idle where you want it (i.e. 13.5 to 14.5 for smooth idle is common). Then recheck your cruise A/F again at 35mph on a flat as the idle enrichment screw will affect cruise it a little. Next road tune up a long grade. Hold for 5sec at 2000rpm, 3000rpm, 4000rpm, 5000rpm and 6000rpm while your buddy records the a/f ratio. Your main jet and emulsion tube will be the main players from 3500rpm to 6000rpm. Since you probably don't want to mess with E tubes, change your main to get the right A/F at 4000rpm then change the air to keep the same a/f as you get towards 6000. Repeat but at WOT runs to make sure the mains are not leaning. The air jet size will lean or enrich the high rpms depending on which you use. If you are starting to run lean at WOT, stop testing and change your main jet. Running lean at WOT is not good for the engine. Aim for 13 to 13.5 for WOT from 3500 to 6500 (yes red line it) Have fun!

Adam. I re-checked a site that tunes OER's and the sweetshop for the idle enrichment screw is 2 turns out with +/- half a turn elbow room (so your should aim for an idle jet that works within 1.5 to 2.5 turns) Check table 4 here: http://www.carry-back.com/CARRY%20BACK%20Carbu%20setting%204.htm

Looks a bit like a Mustang if you squint just right.

FYI this Black Dragon one was OK. The thread also has some installation info that may be useful http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/41040-roof-liner-header-liner-and-a-pillar-vinyl-installation/

Thanks Tomo, I was thinking of an even simpler and beautiful parallel.... a guy that "could", taking a big risk and helping out a broken F1 driver hard on his luck. In the end the risk paid back many fold for both.

Arbitrarily assigning "C1" to a connector in the new colour wiring diagram then sticking an appropriate and corresponding "C1" on the drawing above would be a minimalist-work-way to do it since there do not seem to be drawings with annotated connectors.

This thread is for Mr. K.

Cross referencing to drawings like these would make it a masterpiece:

Watch the movie Grand Prix: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/James_Garner Mr K was a bit like Mr. Yamura http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0060472/

Check the cactus juice heat cure

May need some heat: http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?201715-resin-impregnating

Looks like beer!

It does not show the critical seal between the rotating cylinders and the fixed plate with the intake and combustion chambers. I think it would be the weak link unless some new clever technique is devised.

It would be nice to see a tribute car. 50th anniversary of his S30 in 4 years.... fingers crossed.

I love seeing the great photos and progress in this thread. THANKS

Placing annotations for connectors on the drawing would be great. It would not become too busy with a "C1" "C23" in fine print scattered throughout. A later addition would then be to add mechanical drawings of these connectors on a separate sheet as well as showing the location with respct to the car and wiring harness like on the supplement drawings.

More info here>>>> Reference: http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/valvetrain/index.html

1st picture looks like a disassembled gun. 2nd picture looks like you want a car like this:

My daughter has it now. My wife came down with it when we were in NJ I had it over Christmas. Join the club. 2 hot showers strategically spread over the night helped. Also the day time and night time combo's of Tylenol Cold-and-Flu (or WalMart Generic) did wonders.

Fantastic! Looks perfect!