240260280z

I'll try it if I can find it. Most US wines here are from Calif.

Looks like there are at least two Tomei Intakes for 44mm and 50mm carbs: http://www.frsport.com/index.php?target=catalog&mode=searchImproved&cid=1770 http://www.frsport.com/Tomei-14001R501-Intake-Manifold-Kit-Solex-44mm-Weber-45mm-Carburetor-Nissan-240Z-70-73_p_201637.html http://www.frsport.com/Tomei-14001R502-Intake-Manifold-Kit-Solex-50mm-Weber-48mm-Carburetor-Nissan-240Z-70-73_p_201638.html

The stand-off way out on the left side seems to match. This is a unique identifier. You will have to measure port taper and diameters to absolutely make sure they are the same.

Is the crank offset ground or from a different engine to give more stroke? Are the same rods used? Are the correct sized rod and main bearings used?

http://www.imsahistory.com/1981/PortlandGTU81.html http://www.imsahistory.com/1982/SearsPointGTU82.html http://www.classicscars.com/wspr/results/imsa/imsagt1985.html If same 280z #90 in 1980: http://www.racingsportscars.com/covers/_Riverside-1980-04-27e.jpg http://www.racingsportscars.com/driver/results/Edward-Johnson-USA.html http://www.imsahistory.com/1980/Riverside80.html If same 280z: http://www.racingsportscars.com/results/Road_Atlanta-1978-10-29c.html http://www.racingsportscars.com/type/archive/Datsun/280Z.html?page=3 http://www.racingsportscars.com/results/qualifying/Road_Atlanta-1977-10-29c.html http://www.wsrp.cz/natus1977.html http://www.racingsportscars.com/type/archive/Datsun/280Z.html?page=3

On a 240z I restored. this happened a few times. The wire to the switch would detach at the solder joint. I ended up taking apart the switch cleaning and maybe flipping the contact slider to fresh contacts. I also wicked away all of the old solder, freshened up the solder point then re-soldered.

https://sites.google.com/site/zlalomz/imsagtuz http://www.datsunhistory.com/Racehistory1.html http://bringatrailer.com/2008/12/16/authentic-bob-sharp-75-datsun-imsa-gtu-z-car/ http://www.zcarblog.com/2012/10/29/performance/19900.html

Maybe put the car on jack stands w/o the wheels and take some measurements to the floor. This will tell if it is the body or suspension that is causing the tilt. btw I know both you and John.. and you are both good guys so no worries about the rough introduction above John is one of the world experts on Z suspensions and set up so despite his spartan reply I'm sure he can offer some great advice or you can find it in the archives. I can drop by on the weekend to have a look.

if you are bored: http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/31737-1970-series-i-240z-unique-parts/

yes. early z's have different parts.

Ask Pierce where their jets come from. I just bought a Wahl clipper which I thought was made in USA. DOA and made in China in the fine print... I should read my signature more often and look closer. Fake crap is every where... even fake dcoe's.

Try to inspect the BW wire where it enters the harness and where it comes out. Could be a rodent chewed through it or corrosion or maybe just melted in the steering column. Check continuity and resistance of of the suspect wire from the IGN Sw. to the ballast.. An easy way is to pull the Battery positive then measure the resistance between the new red wire and the BW wire at the IgN. SW. Also check to see if +12V is at pin 2 of the IGN. SW when in Run.

prices very low here http://www.ebay.com/itm/6x-EMULSION-TUBE-F2-F7-F9-F11-F14-F16-for-WEBER-DCOE-IDF-IDA-/291371611039?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43d719f39f&vxp=mtr not sure of quality

I have a lathe Turning jets and E tubes probably by late spring for geek fun.

Well you took a bullet for all of us. Thanks for that. If you ever need parts let me know, we have a few 280z's out to pasture at our barn here in eastern Canada.

Id bet a rocker hanging up when the cam swept off it contributed to the boom. I'd send it back to llc with a bill for labour and down time if the lash pads were too short.

I'm proud of you son For the #4, it is possible that the valve seat has been hammered upward into the head. This also causes the valve and rocker to rise up and remove all lash gap. I saw it happen on an E31 with bronze seats.

try to seal the pcv system. The filter on the catch can will mist oil all over that beautiful engine compartment. fyi car show guys put window screen in front of radiator to keep bugs and road debris out of rad and engine.

http://www.bbc.com/news/science-environment-30915266

WOW to the NOS rails!

Maybe the pertronix igniter failed

A ballast resistor is usually between 1 and 2 ohms.

As Rossiz said, the voltage to the ignition coil takes two paths: 1. Starting... with the key to start a direct path from the battery to the coil is taken to maximize spark. the voltage to teh coil is ~ 12V 2. Run...with the key in the on position, the path is now through the ballast resistor which drops the voltage applied to the coil to ~8V. the lower voltage keeps the coil cooler and increases it's life. Anothe problem in this area is the ignition switch right behind the key. Sometimes it just wears out and will work intermittently when it starts to fail. In my case it would turn the starter when I tried to start but it would not send voltage to the coil. I managed to make it work by turning the key ~ 80% of the way to full stop when starting and it seemed to get good contact on two conductors (starter and coil) when doing this. For your hands-on checks you have a few methods: 1. side of road spark check: Pull a plug wire and stick a spare plug or something conductive in it then lay this on the valve cover. Have a friend watch for spark as you crank in start then release to on. If the spark dies as soon as you release, then it is the ignition. 2. garage check: Have a friend with digital volt meter or 12V bulb measure voltage to coil positive when cranking and when the switch is ON. there should always be a voltage.

I added jan 2013 snapshot which seems less corrupt.