240260280z

These may help: You may wish to buy a later 280z oil pressure sensor and connect a normally open switch. The switch would wire to 36 and 39 and close when the engine was running (usually not in a crash). You would have to keep the EFI relay to keep the functionality.

Exactly! Yes the Z Car Registry data bases were open to the public and corrupted thus the link above and the two files that contain the same info have corrupted data... however, some data is better than none thus the spirit of making this thread and improving things. It is a good starting point for some research too. For example I just saw a friends '72 car with L24 engine #005083 and I was wondering what months it would have been used in, turns out it would have been late Q1 1970 which I got from the corrupt wayback machine data.

I am not saying that. I just wanted to do the 240z's in this thread and undertake some grooming as this thread may explode with content over the years. It is better to partition from the start. I welcome you, or anyone, to do the same for 260z and for 280z and 280zx in three different threads!

The trick to using the EFI wiring for the new pump in the back is to realize the EFI system has safety interlocks to prevent the EFI pump from running when the car is off or when the car crashed (AFM switch or oil pressure switch). The EFI relay applies power towards the pump when the car is turned on through a relay. This power path is also gated by the crash safety interlock. If you want to pull the EFI harness and components but use the wiring, you will have to do a bit of routing around these two legacy items. It is not hard to do. You just need to understand these details it and cleverly integrate the wires for the new application.

If you have a stand alone fuel pump & regulator. AND you have a stand alone ignition system (like a ZX distributor set-up) then you should be ok to remove the ECU, EFI harness, ignition module and the wires to it (in a 280z harness). The 280z EFI system has interworking controls for the fuel pump so you want to make sure that the fuel pump is independent of this. Putting a mechanical pump on the front is a way to remove all of the legacy pump headaches.

John, I'm sure you could take your trailered Z through faster than most of us! For me I will have Janet screaming at me if I go too fast so my speed will be tempered.

VIN: HLS30-00147 Engine: L24-2812 Build Date: 1969-December Exterior Colour: Blue Interior Colour: Black Transmission: 4 Speed Manual Location: Hammonds Plains, Canada

I decided to make a post to help owners find the Z registries on-line Here is a page on Carl Beck's excellent Z Home site and his work that long ago has done what I wanted to do here.... nothing new under the sun and Carl is a star! Carl Beck's Z Registry Links Here is the last recovered version of the on-line Excel based Z Car Registry that is now gone. The data is in the way back machine: Defunct Z Car Registry on Wayback Machine Jan 2013 snapshot I took the liberty of converting the early 240z part of the Z Car Registry to pdf and to XLS format. Z Car Registry Nov 2013 as a PDF Z Car Registry Nov 2013 as an XLS Z Car Registry Jan 2013 as an XLS Z Car Registry Jan 2013 as a PDF If you have a car that is not in these files and want it added, just post to this thread and I'll find some time to update the files. It would be nice if everyone posts a reply to this thread with the VIN as the title and photo's info on their car. Z Registry.pdf Z Registry.zip zreg 01 2013.zip zreg 01 2013.pdf

Looks like it is not much of a diversion to do tail of the dragon for us coming from the north.

White lithium grease will not hurt anything. There is a vacuum seal behind it but applying a sealant to the margin between the booster housing and the master cylinder has been on all systems I have taken apart.

Maxima N47 is a nice upgrade head that has enjoyed the nismo racing advances from1970 to 1980 racing years where as the E31 was the seed head that started this period. You will have to eyebrow/notch the cylinders if you use a maxima N47.

Good stuff. Clever way to measure rocker too. I think the oiling rod on #6 exhaust is on the way out with the bend.

Jim needs those for his 510.... he is too polite to ask

For some Datsuns they are on the engine mounts. They are also on the 510 transmission cross member: http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun510/Datsun510Index/EngineFitting/EngineMounting/tabid/526/ctl/ViewPartNumberDetails/mid/6529/KeyNo/36/SectionNo/022/PartNo/08114-0251A/ModelNo/510/Default.aspx

Make sure no parts are made in China or India. Made in Japan is usually the best. Use aviation gasket maker on all gaskets except head gasket manifold gasket and oil pan. coat manifold gasket with antiseize. Do not use rtv, Seal where the timing cover, block and head unite. Read the two books on rebuild and hotrodding your datsun engine several times. Port the head. go for internally oiled can and use an oil bar. use zinc oil additive use anti seize on all bolts except head bolts research upsizing some of the manifold studs and timing chain guide bolts. replace oil galley plugs with threaded plugs. pay extra attention to side seals on last crank bearing balance pistons and rods to 0.5g if you can use good brand and type of rings use thread lock on oil pick up pcv strainer, crank cam bolts/screws use some sort of pcv closed system or route to a draft pipe to flow oily air to asphalt read about water pump impeller and timing cover erosion the look out for it. get triple carbs for torque check rocker wipe patterns don't use fram filter read about recent mech fuel pump sources chase all threads use ngk plugs

These guys all talk too much but here are a few other ways: Vacuum gauge Manometer

Beautiful car! Jewel of an engine.

There was a mix of the two types of fasteners on the 01/71 that I restored. I can't recall the pattern.

Passenger will have clean feet on rainy days.

Probably a dial gauge in a drilled spark plug could be fashioned as well. I have seen water in tubes move to the max compression point as well.

TDC is simply putting the piston to the top of its stroke, you can do this many ways (turning at crank, cam, wheels or bumping starter or cleverly applied compressed air). The easiest way (assuming no thick radiator, triple damper pulley, ac components in the way) is to pull the plugs, put in neutral then use a shallow socket and ratchet to turn the crank cw (as viewed from in front of the car). This direction does not loosen the bolt and replicates what the engine does when running. If you sweep past TDC, keep going and try again.

Playing Prince Buster over Christmas! Good luck!

I was working in Hazlet and Matawan for a few years. I'm Juarzeee shu-ar.

Take care to plan the FPR and related plumbing: Stock 240z's have an orifice at the outlet of the fuel rail to help maintain fuel pressure in the rail. This then feeds the return line which is much bigger than the orifice. So the orifice and the pressure release valves in the mechanical fuel pump work as a team. In non-stock set ups, simply dead heading (no return used) is one of many designs used but remember that fuel flow through the rail takes away heat (and tames vapour lock) so there are advantages to high flow designs too.

CO I'll see you sooner than you think. I'll be on the Jersey shore on Sunday for a couple of weeks. I'll ring ya.... I need a lathe lesson.