240260280z

more screws https://www.fastenal.com/web/products/self-drilling-screws/_/Navigation;jsessionid=QyKGJsTHBtkvBZJMSQ7MzNYBNTTsph1zTPp1V6sQ6GKFTCmFTMLl!1674018065!185499280?term=sems&termca=&termpx=&sortby=webrank&sortdir=descending&searchmode=productSearch&filterByVendingMachine=&r=%20~|categoryl1:%22609389%20Fleet%209and%20Automotive%22|~%20~|categoryl2:%22604789%20Automotive%20Fasteners%22|~%20~|categoryl3:%22604803%20Self-Drilling%20Screws%22|~

bolts https://www.fastenal.com/web/products/bolts/_/Navigation;jsessionid=QyKGJsTHBtkvBZJMSQ7MzNYBNTTsph1zTPp1V6sQ6GKFTCmFTMLl!1674018065!185499280?term=sems&termca=&termpx=&sortby=webrank&sortdir=descending&searchmode=productSearch&filterByVendingMachine=&r=%20~|categoryl1:%22609389%20Fleet%209and%20Automotive%22|~%20~|categoryl2:%22604789%20Automotive%20Fasteners%22|~%20~|categoryl3:%22604790%20Bolts%22|~

Looks like stock front and rear struts have the same damping performance based on data I posted here http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/springs/index.html

Electrical timing has to do with when to ignite the fuel and air mixture relative to where the piston is in its rotation. You want to ignite at the right time so that the pressure wave from the explosion reaches the piston at the optimal time/location to give it a good and proper push (like pushing someone on a swing). If the ignition is too advanced, the explosion will reach and push the piston too early when it is rising. This would be like pushing some one on a swing as they come towards you.... very painful! If the ignition is too retarded, the explosion will reach and push the piston too late when it has fallen too much. This would be like trying to push someone on a swing after they started to move away from you. It is not efficient. Mechanical timing has to do with the valves opening and closing relative to where the piston is in its rotation. It is the inhaling and exhaling but not the exploding. The cam and timing chain mechanically connect the pistons (via crank) to the valves. If the valves open too early or too late, not enough air will be captured on the intake stroke, or the captured air will leak out on the compression stroke, or the exhaust will go back into the intake on the exhaust stroke, etc. The two E & M do interact but are independent. For example,if the car was really out of tune and the electrical timing is too retarded, the explosion burn will continue out into the exhaust manifold as soon as the exhaust valve starts to open. If you ever see a car with glowing headers the ignition is very retarded, or the exhaust valves are opening too early, or the valves are burned and not sealing.

Refresh As mentioned above, the cables gum-up inside the sheath over the years so refreshing is a good first step. Here is a thread on it: http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/41033-lubricatingrefreshing-cables/ Connect Correctly Also make sure that when you connect the cable ends to the carbs, that when the choke lever is in the off position, the jets are not at all pushed down. If the choke cable and carbs are not connected correctly, the cables may inadvertently push the jets down when the choke is in the off position. This will cause rich running and possibly a carb imbalance too.

Happy New Year! I missed meeting you last December but will look you up the next time I'm in Panama.

NOTE: Early SU carb's AIR balance can be adjusted for both idle and off-idle however there is only one FUEL adjustment that can be optimized for idle OR off-idle. (both fuel balance between carbs and fuel). If the carbs are not worn, the mechanical design will keep the idle and off-idle fuel differences minimal. To set up off-idle: Warm up the car Attach the rod linking the throttle shaft (11) to the Aux. Throttle Shaft (8) Turn the fast idle screw (see picture below) to get the idle ~ 3000 rpm Measure the air flow into the front carb then turn the Balance Screw (14) to adjust the air flow into the rear carb. Match the rear carb's air to that of the the front carb. (here is how to use a unisyn) Once the air is balanced, lift the piston in the rear carb and note the RPM where the engine settles (the car is now running on the front carb only). Next lift the front carb's piston and note the RPM where the engine settles (the car is now running on the rear carb only). Adjust the fuel height of the rear carb's jet so that the RPM's match that of running on the front carb. Repeat the three steps above to confirm air is balanced and RPM drop is the same Back off the fast idle screw completely so that it does not touch the plate. Leave a 1mm gap from the screw end. Final adjustments: Drive it, read plugs, and note power. Adjust jets up and down (in equal turns) to match your target plug colour. Enjoy the car! Thanks to SteveJ (Georgia's SU expert) for helping refine the above tuning procedure.

You must tune the carbs in two stages. 1. Idle 2. Off idle **** DISCONNECT CHOKE CABLES **** Pull them out of the levers on the carb! Make sure the jets move up and down freely and do not bind. To tune the idle, you must warm up the car and, as mentioned above, ensure that timing and valve lash are set correctly with no vacuum leaks. The pistons in the carbs should fall freely and both at the same rate when dropped by your fingers. Do this with the oil dampers removed. You should also visually ensure they fall completely to the bottom of their travel. The needles should be straight and placed in the piston so that the shoulder of the needle is aligned with the flat of the piston bottom, not with the machined trough. (refer to the next two pictures). Before warming up the car, turn the knurled knobs under each jet all the way up then back down 2.5 turns. The next picture shows how to turn the knob. It is like a regular screw and turning the jet up would be turning CW if you were looking at it from below. The first step in tuning the idle is to ensure the linkage from the accelerator pedal to the carbs is disconnected. Simply pull the nylon socket off the Aux. Throttle shaft (8) in the figure below. The next step is to balance the air flow into each carb at idle. You do this by turning the "throttle ajdusting screws" (10) in the figure below. There is one for the front carb and one for the back. The goal is to get equal air flow into each carb AND get the idle where you want it. It is good to use a syncronizing device to measure air flow. Once you are happy with the air flow balance, the next step is to adjust the fuel balance between the carbs. A quick check of fuel balance is to lift each carb piston up a little (one at a time with a 10 sec break between lifting) and note how the engine stumbles. It should behave the same for each piston being lifted. Next lift a piston all the way up and see if the car will run on just one piston. Repeat with the other piston. If the car stalls out, restart (you may have to blip the throttles by hand to get it going as the rod coupling the throttle linkage should still be disconnected). When you raised a piston, you disabled THAT carb so the car was running on the other. If one carb runs worse than the other, give it more fuel (turn its jet down 1/2 a turn) and re-balance the air then try disabling both carbs and compare. Both should run equally crappy. Repeat until happy then have a look at the plugs #2 and #5 so verify that the front carb #2 and back carb #5 are similar. I'll add off idle tuning later.

Here is online manual http://www.xenons30.com/files/Owners%20Manuals/1970%20240z%20ownersmanual.pdf

genius!

I looked again at the oer exploded drawing and it looks like the center tube structure (in body in middle of fuel bowl) should be able to take both the weber and OER style of tube assemblies, I can loan and send you a set of 6 weber e-tubes air correctors, mains and holders to play with drill out until mid May if you want to experiment w/o having to buy a set.

and air http://lupinusflower.ocnk.net/product/18

Hmmm looks like that is how oer did the mains: http://lupinusflower.ocnk.net/product/19

I wonder if a po tapped the tube and tube holder? It looks like some sort of air corrector-shaped device is screwed in where the tapered main jet goes? Try pulling the holder from the tube...it looks like they should separate?

I was at LV today... that is where I saw it. Merry Christmas Jim!!

I can't wait until you start stamping metal parts!!!! Give this man a 1000Ton press!

found this drawing and also attached the manual: 9000-6000e_.pdf

you should be able to hook up to a bench top 12V DC supply and turn the distributor with a drill (or maybe even by hand) to make the system work. This may make testing easier than on the car. Try to get the wiring diagram from the mfgr for the electronic module. If you test on a bench be sure to connect the spark plug bodies and distributor body to ground/return to power supply.

I was lucky to drive in a Lada "convertible" when in Cuba.

Made in Japan parts and parts from Japanese mfgrs are usually the best for our cars. NGK Spark plugs's plant location should not matter as the Japanese parent company's standards would be followed in all NGK plants. It is like buying a Toyota car made in the USA..... good quality and possibly better that Japan.

Looks like a great tool! Simply effective.

http://www.datsun-freeway.com/repair-e/240zg-e.htm reminds me of bad dog's repair

Not sure on the rules for this: http://www.willallracing.com.au/gtrbrakes.htm Could be interesting..... "Yes sir Mr Tech. THAT is my leaky windshield washer." A turbo with the compressor only blowing through an intercooler then on to the brake rotors may be another trick for extra cooling.

Was the syllable "sony" anywhere in your content? Merry Christmas!