240260280z

China can make smart phones because of american design, german & american processes, western oversight, and german factory automation. Left to their own abilities, corruption, lack of laws, over population, congestion and different values (as a result of communism and gansterism) the products are not the Apple kind but more of a pesticide poisonous apple stuffed with paper and worms made by underpaid workers. I do agree that western corporate sell outs and our weak spineless leaders (if you call them that) are also a significant factor.

Yup that is the problem. Watered down metal that oxidizes... it looks like reed switch and feels like a reed switch but it is not.... fake crap. I bought a SS knife set for my apt when I worked in NJ. it rusts in the dishwasher.... fake Chinese stainless steel. The business model is that the western world and huge Chinese and Indian markets will continually pay low prices for fake junk that may work for a short time but that we are too cheap and lazy to do anything when it fails but to buy another. It is a vicious addictive cycle where huge numbers of small financial transactions continually flow to China. We must all break this cycle or the junk will continue to proliferate just like the phone scammers will keep in business and tells us our internet is broken due to their success from enough fools amongst us to keep them in business.

Spent a full day chasing my tail helping a friend with his newly imported California series 1. Just when it is tuned and on its way home the "micro" fuel pump fails but still buzzes. Made in China crap. Previously it was working fine. Ended up limping back to my place and scavenging from a few beater mechanical clackers, threw on a G2 filter, and it went on it's way. I did improve my method for tuning fuel and balancing carbs so it was not so bad.

Love it. there are a few vids and web pages of M engines in Z's. I think the engine has to tilt a bit to fit and maybe steering/cross member mods. The L28 looks a lot like a motor from a unimog (Mercedes m180 engine) and the 280z has a German efi so German kit under the hood is OK

Easy: V12 BMW engine with, dry sump and with 6 down draft webers http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H4gWUlXTewc

Looks like a plastic cooling fan.

shifter knob seems non-original appears to have an AM-FM radio.. not sure if FM was on early Z's AC added Odd coloured intake but correct one for the car. Incorrect valve cover.... may not be original engine Two rear hatch struts...looks like one was added Armrest pad added Door-window frame corner rubber (drivers side near lock) is missing Quarter window small rubber seals are missing (4)

Greg, I have a couple of ideas for tuning SU's and customizing needles that I can share with you in confidence. PM me and I'll share the ideas. I was thinking of you and your racing when I thought of them. Captain Obvious (on this forum) can also help as he is a great machinist and knows one of these ideas.

Hank, now you must post pics of the yellow z

My guess would be the fuel pressure regulator failing or the fuel pump malfunctioning. Cold engines need more fuel to start (what a choke does) but once the engine is up to temp, the fuel metered has to match the oxygen density in the air. To match the air temperature, the jets should be lowered 1.25 turns down from their summer hot day setting to match a cold morning just above freezing. Here is a more accurate tool for setting standard jet heights. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/su-carb-technical-articles/43477-su-jet-depth-calculator-temperature-altitude-compensation-xls-tool.html

Hi Burto, The above really is for wiring a 280z. There are only 3 connections (Ground, +12V and the tach. signal from -neg coil) This may help with your '73 tach: https://www.google.ca/search?q=site%3Aclassiczcars.com+73+tach+wiring&oq=site%3Aclassiczcars.com+73+tach+wiring&aqs=chrome..69i57j69i58.13917j0j7&sourceid=chrome&es_sm=122&ie=UTF-8

HP: 225HP at engine (206HP at wheels) Torque: 227 ft-lbs

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Looks to clean to get muddy ever again! Very nice!

I studied at the Sheet Harbour Institute of Technology.

Part 2

We've all been there welcome to the club!

WOW. Looks fantastic!

from the plugs, the front carb could use an additional 1/2 turn of fuel jet, the back carb could be backed off a 1/4 turn. I'd recommend getting an SKE Syncrometer (silver one) and a timing light with adjustable advance. a good investment if you have carbs. The timing light also shows rpm: http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B000EVYGV4/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_3/176-2192564-9329659?pf_rd_m=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe&pf_rd_r=0DB90H8HVPTQ6TKAVVP5&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_p=1535015942&pf_rd_i=B000BSWEHS Weber Dellorto Mikuni SU Empi Carb Carburetor Sync Synchronizer Synchrometer NEW | eBay If you only seem to get power at 1400 rpm, it is probably not enough advance at idle as the mechanical advance starts to come in ~1,400 rpm.

One can dip a block in a rubber garbage can full of water and muriatic acid if in a pinch....

Try pulling the choke to give it more fuel when it is boggy. This will confirm CO's suggestion of being lean. A faster idle will also help when cold (pulling choke up all the way mechanically opens the throttle valve a bit more (you can actually adjust this and calibrate it). If the ambient temp was colder (autumn & morning being factors), that will also require more fuel. Nissan recommends adjusting jet height to compensate for ambient temperature but using the choke to give more fuel will help to get the motor up to temperature (where it is less sensitive to ambient air temp.... the cold metal of a cold intake causes fuel to condense on the metal and not make it to the combustion chamber...thus it is a lean charge... once the engine and intake are hot, the fuel condensation problem goes away....cold engines are always finicky because of this ).

btw dash pot oil is not significant to performance when compared to state of tune, timing, valve lash, fuel metering compression and cam design. the oil in the carb only stabilizes the piston on bumpy roads and controls the fuel when transitioning to/from WOT quickly. If you "squeeze" the gas pedal, it will not make a difference.... only when you "hammer" the pedal will oil type be noticable.... and barely by the butt dyno. A/F monitoring with a WB O2 will show some aspects of the transition and oil interaction.