240260280z

Good idea. The wiper linkage have felt-like washers that hold grease. Just removing the old and re-greasing reduces the resistance considerably. More heat proofing, sound proofing, and water proofing behind the dash is also good to do.

That is the problem and it is common to all 3 of your carbs. Try cleaning the plugs and see if they foul with carbon again. Wrong jets could be the cause but if it ran well all summer then it must be something else.... too much fuel pressure could cause main overflow into the aux venturi that you should see as fuel dripping out of the throat at idle (remove filters to watch/feel for fuel leaking into the throat). Of course measuring fuel pressure is best. Check fuel levels too (in main well). Btw did your carbs come in contact and catch the illness that Madkaw has?

I agree, it is probably the springs as you suspect. Softer stock springs a bigger front swaybar, poly end links, and ball-and-socket tension/compression rod fittings would be a nice upgrade to consider.

I think you should consider removing the dash and the wiper assembly and refreshing both now that you have the car disassembled to the stage in the photos.

I was helping my dad with his '65 Impala SS today. We just wanted to set the idle. It has Edlebrock 9906 4 barrel carb with idle set screws on each side (one for front barrel on passenger side and one for front barrel on drivers side). The exhaust is split on each side from the manifold back so there is independence. When adjusting the carb's idle, I found that each jet affected both sides. I am guessing the intake was where some mixing was going on. The car was also tilted ~ 5 degrees due to the floor of the garage failing (hillbilly is doing some body work where we tuned in situ). To get balanced O2 readings on each pipe at idle, the edlebrocks needed the lower side of the tilted carb (drivers) at 0.5 turns out and the higher side at 2.5 turns out. The manual specifies ~ 1.5turns out for each side. So: 1. Are edlebrock's fuel delivery and floats affected by the tilted car (lower on drivers side)? 2. Are 65 impala intakes not machined well enough so that drivers side and passenger side flow is not symmetrical/equal? 3. Do 65 impala intakes mix left and right barrels from a carb at idle? 4. Do edlebrock 9906 carbs mix left and right barrels at idle in the throat/base? 5. Are the idle screws on edlebrock 9906 carbs machined accurately so as to match flow at the same number of turns out? I appreciate Japanese kit all the more after working on Detroit metal.

Please do these two tests: 1. What do the plugs look like after you idle it for 5 minutes 2. What do the plugs look like after you drive at cruise for 5 minutes (do a plug cut and take them out on the side of the road... a photo of all 6 side by side would be nice for us to see)

1 leaner is often said to be due to intake runner and plenum design. I have not seen data to verify.

The dent could be the cause of the lumpy idle..... sorry, I could not help myself.

I thought it was a 280zx..... who knew "ugly" was camouflage?

did you see the 4X4 zx?

The guy with the reverse thread taps and dies company also had the patent on tie rods? Or he felt sorry for left handed people and wanted "neutral" steering. (groan)

I'm happy for you.

I bought a 72 with only 80,000 mi 2 years ago and was shocked at how quiet the rear end was. It seems to correlate with wear.

cold battery at 12.0V is flat cold battery at 12.8V is fully charged Voltage from alternator-regulator to charge battery when iding and running is typically 13.5 to 14.5V range A hot battery with the car just shut off will show the Vreg voltage then slowly decrease from this to its cold state (over hours). You can watch it drop with a volt meter.

The jokes just Stahl-ed for a moment? Please continue.

The injectors are simply based on a solenoid design. A coil of wire that pulls on a slug of metal when energized. Since the slug is not magnetized/polarized, the polarity of the coil is not important thus the connectors pos/neg are not impt....but Nissan did wire these all the same.

50 year 311 Roadster anniversary 2015 50 year 510/1600 anniversary 2018 50 year S30 anniversary 2019 soon hopefully there are cars in the pipe...not more jukes. Maybe the targa is the 2015 commemorative 311.

Usually it is the wiring and the connectors rather than the injector. Try swapping the injector connections between 2&3 or between 4&3 to see if the problem moves. (There is enough slack in the wiring harness to the fuel rail to do this). This trick is a quick way to determine if it is a problem in the harness/connector or the actual injector is dead. A good cleaning of all electrical connections in a Bosch EFI system is a wonderful treat to your car.

that is the best exhaust pun I have heard ever!

If it is in Calif. It needs surf boards on the roof to look right.

What is your fuel level set to.

Could be fusible links too....for loss of power to accessories. The ignition modules are prone to fail and start to randomly kill the spark until they cool. The ignition switch can also cause problems.

Be sure to fill the holes in the exhaust manifold where the pipes came through otherwise you will have a nice set of 6 whistles. This often happens if only the big threaded holes on the outside are plugged. We just solved this problem on a car by drilling and tapping the narrower hole where the pipe fit. We then ran long ss bolts through from the outside and ground the ends flush where they protruded inside. If you tap for a large enough bolt, the head will cover the big threaded hole on the outside and the manifold will look mighty purdy.

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