240260280z

You can probably find substitutes as a good hardware store.

Wow that is fantastic. Keep it original and you will have a great investment too.

Great stuff. You may be able to remove the vac advance but give it more initial advance to compensate.... say ~ 17 to 19 at idle. This should help the mid RPM problem (from too much vacuum advance). However the small print side effects of no vac advance are: It may be more difficult to start and, you will loose fuel efficiency at cruise. The vacuum advance canisters are adjustable but you need to chip off the epoxy blob to access the limit screw.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/electrical-s30/47451-has-anyone-successfully-repaired-bimetal-contacts-dash-gauge.html http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/interior-s30/41689-diy-brighter-gauge-lights.html

Green lens that goes over instrument lamps. btw you can paint the inside of the instrument cans bright white to help increase the brightness of the gauges,

dash goes on then the bolts for the steering column holder... don't tighten too much now

If I had a way to get it home, I would have picked it up a month ago.... I will be flying over Wa next week....I'll drop a rope from the jet.

Sounds like too much fuel. The needles may not be right or the jets too low. What is fuel pump pressure?

Chamfer the tops of the holes for the head bolts in the block if you feel naughty

Maybe the hole in the jet is ovaled or the needle worn

How far down are the jet knobs turned down from their top most position? Don't rule out timing however the sooty plugs seem indicative of too much fuel.

Yup, that is how it works but it is not how it is designed. If one carb had needle in and the other with needle out but both jet screws were turned out the same amount, the carb with more fuel would do most of the work. This is why you should adjust the jet height by reading the plugs if you don't have the O2 wideband sniffer. This matches the jet height to the fuel burn...which is different depending on needle location.

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I should have said. "Needle depth in the piston" rather than needle height. When tuning, I am programmed to pull out the piston, flip them over and look at the needle and shoulder sticking up in the air from the piston thus my use of height. The correct method for setting the needle depth in the piston is to have the shoulder of the needle flush with the base of the piston.... not flush with the trough machined out of the piston. It is important for this to be the same on both carbs as well as the same fuel level if you want more precision when balancing at idle. The carbs have a lot of self-healing properties so having different needle depths in the pistons can be compensated by having different jet heights... but to set the correct jet height you have to read the plugs or measure A/F with an 02 from one carb at a time (at different exhaust manifold runners or at exhaust pipe with only one carb at a time in operation.) For balancing the correct jet heights, I recommend you drive then check plugs 2 and 5. Adjust jet heights to match plug colour...this woks on old and new motors.

L20A FSM is here: http://www.xenons30.com/files/FSM%20L20aL24engine.pdf

I forgot to mention that you should set the needle height to be the same on both carbs.

Good point about float level in the last section (three).... you know that may be why the lift trick does not give the same results at idle vs high rpm. From the results, the front carb would be richer at idle and have higher fuel. How do the plugs #2 and #5 compare after 5 min of idle and after 5 min of spirited driving? For your first section, I am thinking the new distributor may have issues transitioning. (possibly the breaker plate has broken). Maybe stick the old one on and compare has a quick check then watch your timing advance and return while hand-reving the engine. The problem could also be too much mechanical and vacuum advance in transition. Checking the timing while hand-reving should show what is happening. If you have two ZX distributors, take both apart and build one with the best parts from both. The fresh grease will smooth things out.

Wow that is cool and clever

I want first refusal if you ever sell it

megasquirt

Hmmm 5 speed transmission too? June 1970?

HLS30-00243... I wonder where it is? 244 is out there and here is #240

Seems dead now

WELCOME BACK! That is a nice re-entry.

bad pun On DCOE's, the main jet typically affects fuel delivery between cruise and max RPM. The Air corrector changes the non-linear behaviour of a/f to lean it out as max RPM is approached. Too large an air corrector will affect a/f lower in rpms and cause over-lean at high RPM's. If the fuel level is too high on DCOE's, the fuel in the main jet will be pulled too early/easily and over enrich the cruise A/F as well as the cruise to WOT. Changing mains will have little effect on the cruise A/F apart from taming the excess fuel at higher RPM's. Lowering fuel level and going with a larger main is one method for tuning the cruise-power transition.