240260280z

Yes Chris! That is the subtle thing I noticed. Gnoses seem to look better when they are not colour matched on the bottom half.I also prefer them to be dark grey and match the flares. Black seems too dark.A bumperless rear also looks nice:

yup. I'm going from this to that in 2014: This...............................................................That Just got the flares last week. Collected a Gnose and 15" X 12" BBS-RS wheels over the years so all I need is quality time disassembling, mending, modding, welding, building a 3litre, then body/paint work.

Yup, thats the beauty. I think milling off the letters and strips and machining an aluminum plate to go over the centre area would be a nice mod. I hope to get a milling machine and lathe this spring so I'll soon be able to knock out a lot of these ideas finally.

[h=2]1970-1983 Datsun Parts cars[/h]Location: FINLEYVILLE,PA Description: DATSUNS, dismantling 336 70 to 83 Z cars. Wanted: old race cars and parts, and parts inventories. Smittybuilt Racing, 724-348-5585, PA

I used screw caps on a resto I did

Some time in the future I plan to drill and relocate the fitting and hose to back end of the valve cover ( hidden between the fire wall and the valve cover) ...and plug then french the top. Adding and internal pipe can draw from the centre above the battle to the new exit location at the back.

check the last pic in the vintage racing pic thread

Alan must have purchased a hob or something online to trigger this

Just put some alfa badges on your z..... most don't know the difference. and if you want Italian just do a 250 GTZ kit.

Thanks for the data. For fuel level it would be good to also note to the level in the float bowls. It should be identical for all 3 carbs. The carbs will work better if you first set them up on a bench but fine tune on the car. O2 sensor and air flow tool are highly recommended.

hLs-17 was yellow... do you think they did hs-19 in that batch?

Opps I should clarify in post #4 that I meant "idle enrichment screw" in place of "idle jet" Gee I wish the 1hr edit limit could be extended to 24hr or indefinitely.

WOW great find!

What is your fuel level? (This normally is not affected by forward/backward G's too much but it is another data point).

Can you compare immediate deceleration vs slow gentle deceleration? This will give us two data points. When you do an immediate deceleration (called overrun), the pistons are going fast and sucking hard (high vacuum in the manifold). The only air it can get is what is pulled past the closed throttle plate AND the air + fuel from the idle jet. If it is fuel starvation, just open up the idle jets a turn or more to give it more fuel then try testing again. If it is too much fuel, you will have to open the throttle plate stops a bit more then re-jet the idle. (Thanks Dr 240z for the Passini book!)

I am currently working on basement (floors, walls, paint, plumbing, then the garage). I'll be busy for a couple of months but after that the flow bench will be made

FYI Just saw a yellow 69 in Hemmings Jan. '14 mag. for $17k

Seller can not collect these. The receiving govt. does as they are import, not export fees. UPS and FedEx do their own brokering and rip everyone off with brokering fees (filling out a form or two is all they do). The Post office in Canada eventually got into it and started charging a $5 fee if they had to charge duty. Most auto parts (if not all) are duty free and you just have to pay tax.

This is the ugly car that you would trade a Z for? 1974 Alfa Romeo GTV 2000 Coupe for sale | Hemmings Motor News

You will be banded from this site and no longer have access to our wonderful sense of humour. <<< That is Canadian and British "humor". We will no longer be able to drool over the photos of your wonderful Z. You will blur into the Ferrari crowd.

Flow can induce current at a distance. I am guessing this is the pipeline separation rule of thunb mentioned above. We get induced currents with submarine cables caused by the flow of tides/bottom currents over them. We also get esoteric parasitic currents from solar emissions every now and then...yes we watch "space weather".

I set up a 2000 roadster carbs at ZCON. Mr Matsuo came by and we talked for a bit. He mentioned 30wt for hot climates and 20wt for temperate climates. The oil serves only 3 purposes: 1. To dampen the piston from engine vibrations, road vibrations, and bumps. 2. To control how fast the piston rises under abrupt accelerations (slower rising increases richness) 3. To control how fast the piston drops under abrupt decelerations (slower falling decreases richness....but it is not significant as the throttle valve is closed) Thicker is richer under abrupt acceleration transition Thinner is leaner under abrupt acceleration transition Oil has no effect on stead state idle, cruise or WOT. it only affects stab-the-pedal bursts. Think of it as a mild pseudo-acceleration pump-like circuit like on a weber

Sacrificial anodes are specific to where metals conducting electricity are immersed in water. Or where induced currents occur in a metal in water where the metal moves or the water flows. Since the Z is not driving around knee deep in puddles, a sacrificial anode will not function. The metal needs to be coated for chemical corrosion protection. The power returns for the lighting circuits could be improved by running parallel copper wire paths in the uni-body or using discrete return cables to bypass the uni-body completely

Great to meet another Newfoundlander. (I was born in Stephenville). We have a big club in Atlantic Canada. Atlantic Z Car Club It should be no problem to find you a z. Check out Importing Classic Datsun and Nissan Z Cars Z Sport Canada

Your uncle only drove on race tracks