240260280z

I'll make a flow bench and map AFM flap movement to CFM/Flow. The volumetric efficiency and engine size can easily be used to map CFM against RPM and CFM against HP. btw John is baddog, philip is blue.

After thinking more about it there are two ways to go: 1. Raise the height of the existing rod links and use a very long rod like the one below. Connect a lever on the end of the rod and connect to the bell crank on the fire wall. Once you get the long rod up higher, you will have room for the brake booster hose to connect. You will probably have to relocate the throttle arms on the carbs to the front side of the carb. 2. Use a short rod like below and use a cable (not shown) to pull the rod

I'll do what I can Lenny. I have a lot of spare EFI parts and a 77 280z at your disposal. I can also transform curves to equations for compactness in code and smooth transitioning.

nice plate

Better late than never Ash... WOW

This set of graphs are very informative. I recommend studying until it makes sense

Hey Bart, Those trucks are a dime a dozen here and I live at an autoport that does regular trips direct to Rotterdam. PM me if you ever want one Sample: 1951 International Harvester - Nova Scotia Collector Cars For Sale - Kijiji Nova Scotia Canada.

Yeah the L24/6/8 motors in Z's look uncannily like many SOHC German motors.

The design of the bell mouth is 1/4 of an ellipse from the edge of the carb/Throttle body to the outer most part of the air horn. It then curls into a circle. There are ratios of height to width of the bell mouth that determine the ellipse's curve aand best performance....and a rule of thumb for the curl. What is confusing me is the long (major) axis of the ellipse is parallel with the air flow on the newer bell mouth in the pdf where as the Vizard ellipse looks to be perpelndicular?

Here is another: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/carburetors-s30/50040-sk-racing-carbs-2.html#post440903

Here is the latest for a traditional taller bellmouth/airhorn/velocity stack. (attached pdf) Here is one closely approximating Velocity stacks #2 but still no detailed equation for the one in the drawing above from (David Vizard - How to tune the A-series engine , page 57 to 72 / The chapter called RAM CHARGING.) (Blair_and_Cahoon)_Design_of_an_intake_bellmouth_Sept._2006.pdf

Some helpful photos here: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/carburetors-s30/37492-lynx-manifold-photos.html#post446728

spark scatter from a loose part in the distributor? early spark pops in the intake late spark pops in the exhaust for fuel: lean pops in the intake rich pops in the exhaust

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Keep the thread updated with pics! Goodluck.

OK now that you have revealed your wonderous gift! Please do the grinch.... even a short passage!

Analysis: 1. It looks like the vacuum line tap in the runner uses the same casting locations as the rod-ends that hold the linkage-rod. Solution 1. Try to fit or make a low profile 90degree fitting for the hose so that it is diverted at the manifold and does not interfere with the linkage Solution 2. Try to find another casting location on the manifold for drilling and tapping a new vacuum line fitting 2. Sadly, from experience, the guys at Pierce are nice but not the brightest. They should have asked you about metric fittings as you are in Europe. Being in the states, most of their product line is not metric thus the size / thread differences. Solution 1. You should be able to source the metric components in Finland (ss linkage-rod, rod ends). Call a machine shop or engine rebuilding shop and talk to someone there. Here in Canada, I can buy the stock for linkage rod in most hardware stores....not SS but they have it...in imperial sizes though. Solution 2. Assemble your manifold and carbs, no linkage. Bring this and the stock linkage from the Z (noting distances from where that last shepherd hook sits relative to runner 1) along with photos of linkages and manifolds to a machine shop along with your heap of linkage parts and ask them to finish the assembly and supply any require parts to make it work. Looks like you are on the home stretch now! One more push and you will have it sorted! btw What manufacturer of manifold do you have?

Anyone know the equation for the +5.8% 3/4" high profile of the stubby in this figure? (I found equations for traditional elliptical bell mouths but not for a stubby plate design like in the figure)

Strange surface to be turning on for a photo shoot with an immaculately clean Z is what I find strange....concrete with rocks and branches?

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Not sure of the photographs date but it is a nice photo. Any ideas of the photo's date? Link to the big photo http://images.cdn.autocar.co.uk/sites/autocar.co.uk/files/nissan-370z-41101035837991600x1060.jpg