240260280z

fsm's here too: http://hammondsplains.com/fsm/

I used a fuel injector cleaner and had orange deposits on my plugs from it... looks like you may have a bad batch of gas with too much refinery additives. octane boosters can do this too....they also deposit on O2 sensors (on cars with those).

Once you get air balanced, set the idle to 1000rpm then lift the back carb's piston with your finger to run on thr front 3 cylinders. The car should idle rough but chug along ~ 400 to 600 rpm. If not, adjust the fuel jet height of the front carb. Repeat but lift the front piston so that you chug along on the rear carb and the back 3 cylinders. Adjust the back carb's jet height to run "equally as sh!tty" (comment for Brian). Recheck the air, recheck the finger lift then enjoy. Check the plugs and adjust the jet levels both as needed to get the plug colour's where you like.

Mobil 1 Synthetic Gear Lube LS 75W-90 for the differential

Use Valvoline Synthetic DOT 3 & 4 brake fluid in the brake lines and the clutch

Redline MT-90 is great for the transmission.

Transmission Fluid 70-76 Man 1.5 litres 3.13 pints 77-83 Man 1.7 litres 3.63 pints 70-83 Auto 5.5 litres 11.75pints Engine Oil 70-78 4.7 litres 5 quarts 79-83 4.5 litres 4.75 quarts (turbo is 5.5 quarts) Differential Oil 70-74 1 litre 2.13 pints 75-83 1.3 litres 2.75 pints Gasoline 70-74 60 litres 15 7/8gal 75-78 65 litres 17.25gal 79-83 80litres 21.12gal Coolant 70-73 9.9 litres 10.5 quarts 74-75 9.4 litres 10 quarts 76-78 10.4 litres 11 quarts 79-83 10.5 litres 11.12 quarts

Looks ready now!

Dang now you got me interested in this... I'll have to take measurements, draw the linkage, model it in excel then do what-if's....curses for taking my toys apart and an interest in applied physics. I'm thinking what Mike says as well as Karl and Dan's findings...maybe an eccentric wheel is the way to go... maybe an adjustable eccentric is even better.

After a closer look, I notice that the ones I like may be bigger. They seem to cover the front marker light between the front wheel and the headlight. Or maybe the markers are frenched and the flare is filled? they also seem to come higher towards the hood? Any other links to these big guys?

Thanks Takashi-san!

As George says it was a great improvement. In fact I was glad we did it because enroute to ZCON on the I-95, George was behind me doing 65mph when some fools not far in front came to a complete stop. We both had to hammer the brakes very hard and both cars stopped safely. I don't think the other booster would have stopped as quickly. For the drilling, just make a cardboard template to ensure it fits onto the new booster's stud holes and ensure it's outer edge is the same diameter. btw we were able to do the work without removing the master cylinder from the brake lines. The only problem was losing the small clip on the clevis ..... a magnet on the side of a service light stole it from the drivers foot area/parts holder.

I believe the original holes were on 8cm centers (width) where the new ones are on 10cm. (height spacing is the same) It is easy to drill but on a 1970 you must also drill all holes ~ 0.5 to 1cm lower to clear the bell arm bracket and the clutch slave. A 72 may not have this problem. Try a mock-up cardboard disc first. Oh yeah.... the bigger booster was a great improvement!!!

Thanks guys. i had a look at rocky but they only have the smaller ones. maybe I'll give Z force productions a call tomorrow.

Karl & Dan got it here: Accel. Linkage Fix I recommend taking the slop out of the linkage and lubricating as a first step. FYI Some of the linkage rods are threaded for doing this. Hardway and I cut and chased new threads on his to improve performance.

Got the Spruell's and they are correct 47605.009's at 33% stronger than the 47605.027's.

The Spruell Motorsport shipment just arrived with the stronger Weber 40 DCOE Throttle Springs. These springs are used to firmly close the throttle plates shut. This ensures consistent performance as explored and discovered in this thread: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/carburetors-s30/48969-weber-internal-spring.html For reference, here are the Weber part numbers: 47605.012 Weaker 47605.027 Standard 47605.009 Stronger I decided to measure the spring constants of the springs I had on hand for reference: ?????????? (is from Pierce Manifold sold as 47605.009 BEWARE) New 713.2 N-m 526 Ft-Lbs 47605.027 Used 1,634.4 N-m 1,206 Ft-Lbs 47605.027 New 1,669.2 N-m 1,231 Ft-Lbs 47605.009 New 2,203.7 N-m 1,625 Ft-Lbs I am not sure of the age of the used standard spring but it has not aged much.Clearly Pierce sent the incorrect spring.The stronger .009's are ~ 33% stronger

I'm heading to Japan in a month and would like to come back with these big flares. Anyone know a supplier? thanks

Thanks! Perfect

A fellow club member asked for a recommendation for a road racing transmission tough enough for 400HP. Any suggestions? Presently he has a turbo 280zx T5 in his car but it just died. Thanks!

I fixed two efi cars whose engine compartments rattled at 3500 rpm.... it was the heat shield under the intake plenum.

Check out parts 55 to 61 in this:

There is a slot cut in the body of the inserted cylinder. The 10mm bolt, tab, and this slot act as a retainer You can't see the slot in the picture above as it is on the other side but you can see it in some of these:

Cool to see a grease reservoir!

Lots of ideas in this video from "two houses over" 714B Autorobot Satellite straightening set, economical bodyshop equipment - YouTube