240260280z

Hmmmm I looked closer and noticed the front rad support is not a series 1 or 2 as it has the curved air blocking piece that follows the hood contour. I guess it could have been welded in as a repair.

Turn each jet all the way up then turn each down 2.5 turns.Warm the car up.Disconnect carb linkage between carbs from the long rod that is parallel and next to the balance tube (just pull an end off the ball and socket rod connecting the two between the carbs.Make sure choke is off and jets are all the way upUse STE synch on carb one and set air using idle stop screw adjusting screwUse STE SK sync on carb two and set air using idle stop screw adjusting screw to match the flow on carb 1Repeat until the same and you are happy with the idle.Reach in and lift the piston on carb one all the way up. This disables carb 1 and makes the car run on the back carb only.If car can not run turn the back carb jet down a 1/4 turn and try step 8 again. Repeat 9 until the car can run . You may have to turn the jet up.Set carb 1 to the same number of turns down that carb 2 ended up at.Repeat but run the engine on carb 1 by lifting the piston in carb 2 all the way up. Adjust the jet on carb 1 by no more than 1/4 turn up or down to run.Rebalance the air flow as done in steps 5 & 6.Reconnect the throttle linkage and turn the screw near the middle of the bar near the balance tube. This will increase the RPMS (off idle). Use the STE Sync tool so that carb 1 reads 30 or 35.Adjust the screw on the linkage to the left of carb 2 and measure the air flow. Adjust so that carb two is also 30 or 35 (depending what your target was on carb one).Unscrew the screw near the middle of the bar near the balance tube so that the carbs go back to idleI can ring and walk you through it if you want.

Cool Vin 127 is owned by a good friend here in the east

I heard it from the source... nudge nudge wink wink

You will never forget this photo

I have seen thermostat housings corrode. Take the hose off first to have a look. I have also seen leaks due to loose hose clamps. Maybe do a compression test on #1 too.

FYI some at DATSUN wanted to do a Z wagon like the P1800 Volvo.... it would be cool to see a 2+2 modified into a wagon.

BTW you can type your own values in the green boxes here (rather than just pull down on the left) to see what frankensteins you can build: Z-Engine Calculator

Nah, it was just an experiment. Dished pistons and L28 77 block. No valve-piston clearance problems and 260z cam.... Ghetto as I said. Compression is ~10.3 with the Felpro gasket.

The owner's first name is William from NY Z club.

EZ PZ Just advance the chain a link and take up the slop with the tensioner and guides. The goal is to synch the cam with the crank. Using TDC and the marks on the cam, you can do this by lifting the cam with shims or by moving a link more on the timing chain. Works fine.

clean all the 'lectrical http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/electricalconnections/index.html

My Hill-billy Ghetto "speriment" 32cc that is: N47 2mm Shave (AtlanticZ.ca) || | | | | | | | [ATTACH=CONFIG]65289[/ATTACH]

Here is that 260z I mentioned:

Way to go. FYI I just installed a rebuilt 280z 8.5" (from rockauto) on a 240z - it had no reaction disc - the rod shaft was badly pitted and did not seal well I swapped in another rod with the reaction dic GLUED to its back and all was well. The bigger booster is a great improvement as it can stop the car over a shorter distance. It was well tested by crazy stopping drivers ahead of us on the I95 over the past 2 weeks.

Vin 13 Early VIN 70 from BAT

Here are some dec/69 jan/70 pics I found on this site:

Chris, That is a vent line from the tank. I don't think early Z's had it.

Thanks Jim! Perfect. I wish I had those when I was reassembling 1/71 last summer.

I need Series 1 front clip, hood, hatch, and rear quarter panels. If you happen to see these odd items let me know

Would anyone know the engine compartment changes that occurred during the Series I 240z production? (brackets, lines, mounts, etc.)

I saw a white 260z with eibach/ilumina combo at Zcon.. with big rims.... my fav car there. It looked perfect.

Hi Jim, Sold I'll ring later today. I just got back from ZCON and one highlight was working on VIN 13. Philip

I think that once this is working, there is a huge market for retrofitting all the porsche and other german classic vehicles as well as other x-jetronic vehicles from the mid 70's to mid 80's. Great project and it can make a lot of $$$.