240260280z

Good to hear you won!

Great race: see it here: http://www.vipbox.tv/watch/32669/1/s...am-online.html

I think you gotta get from a parts car.

I've seen a few but never made one. Here are some ideas: CLICK

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread46362-3.html

Reminds me of a post card I saw with a z. Nice!

Speaking of interchangeable parts: Do Dellortos and Webers share the same chokes? (I know that SK and Weber do).

They are junk... I'll take them off your hands for a set of rebuilt su's

Yes ~ 30min to 1 hour for the Muriatic (agitate it often). Then rinse well with lots of water then hit it with the phosphoric for 30min to 1 hour followed by a rinse then dry. No need to neutralize the phosphoric as it does not flash rust like the muriatic does. Only use the baking soda to neutralize if you skip the phosphoric.

Don't leave acid in too long. Following Muriatic Acid with rinse then Phosphoric Acid soak is great to kill future rust

Weber DCOE Pump Springs:Weaker [*=2]47600.064 [*=2]47600.068 [*=2]47600.034 [*=2]47600.055 Stronger Weber DCOE Throttle Return Springs: Weaker [*=2]47605.012 [*=2]47605.027 [*=2]47605.009 Stronger Weber DCOE Pump Rods: [TABLE=width: 192] <colgroup><col span="3" style="margin-left: 40px; "></colgroup><tbody>[TR] [TD] Stroke mm [/TD] [TD] Overall length mm [/TD] [TD] Part Number [/TD] [/TR] [TR] [/TR] [TR] [TD] 10 [/TD] [TD] 59.5 [/TD] [TD] 10410.02 [/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD] 14 [/TD] [TD] 63.5 [/TD] [TD] 10410.02 [/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD] 16 [/TD] [TD] 65.5 [/TD] [TD] 10410.01 [/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD] 18 [/TD] [TD] 67.5 [/TD] [TD] 10410.024 [/TD] [/TR] </tbody>[/TABLE]

I just ordered some 115's for an L24 that had 125's and ran rich. The owner now has 120's that Stephen loaned me and just reported it ran better and less exhaust smell so The 120's will prbably be great for your L24 Leon. The car is ~400km from me and my O2 sensor so I'll measure the 120 A/F in the spring and also run the 115's and plot. Please measure A/F with the 120s between 3k and 6k

02/70 HLS30-01360 L24-004764 http://hammondsplains.com/zcars4sale/240z/greenfeb1970/index.htm 03/70 HLS30-02907 http://hammondsplains.com/zcars4sale/240z/ltblue1970/index.htm

Looks like someone corrupted it again: http://www.editgrid.com/user/mlwilliams/Z_Car_Registry It just has alias' as names and most content is gone. Looks like 2012-10-17 03:31:09 AM is last good version so I rolled it back

The best way is to calibrate on the car because the voltage regulator will put out more than 12V and there will be losses in the wiring to the instrument. (If you bench calibrate then you will lose the accuracy once installed. For calibrating the temp sensor, fit a thermocouple to one of the fittings on the thermostat housing and run the car to temperature. Adjust the gauge to match the digital readout. You can also check with an IR thermometer to see if the temp on the outside of the thermostat housing is the same inside. You can also plot external temp of the motor to see hot spots and temperature gradients. For the oil temp, do the same but fit an external pressure sensor gauge to a y fitting with the oil pressure sensor.

Hi Chase, Here are two pics I have of wrapped dashes for your reference. Good luck! I am like the rest anxiously watching this thread.

Congrats... those zcars have a tough time pulling the wool over our eyes here.

In theory one could drill out and install efi bungs on a triple carb's intake manifold then just use the carbs as throttle valves only. Removing the venturi's or reshaping would open up the upstream. Just a thought. The only applications I can think of are carb vs EFI dyno tuning convenience or using both at the same time so that carbs run slightly lean at ~90% of the fuel demand and the EFI acts as a tweaker to make up the rest to a finer precision.

Nice stuff Guy! Way to break new ground on a 40 year old car!

Cool Koalia! Love the Pogues too! My fav 2: http://youtu.be/-GZ8ZQvrfJc http://youtu.be/k-tunRwGPIQ