240260280z

The outer part of the pulley slips when the rubber fails: If this happens and you still want to set the timing, simply put the car at Top Dead Centre and paint a new dot on the edge of the pulley where the timing pointer is. But you should buy a new pulley ASAP.

On my old toyota's, the valve was often high on the firewall in the engine compartment. Happy Hunting.

Good old toyota valve worked fine back in the day. Can't get any simpler.

Photos of the local track from back in the day (Atlantic Motorsport Park, Nova Scotia). Some datsun products easily spotted.

For 240z and 260z, the hose is ~ $15 for 280z ~$25. You can clamp the hose on that fixture and you are good to go in the interim.

The blue and white paired wire I spy is often used in the telephone industry I think. 120ohm/100ohm E1/T1 wire-wrap cross connects

Real DIY. Nice.

Probably just sand stuck in the valve... looks shiny though

Head swap would be faster and easier. Find an E88 cheap.

Just searched the web: Some heater control valves are "thermostatically controlled" with a capillary tube that extends into the heater air outlet. The capillary tube reacts to changes in the heater's output. This regulates the opening and closing of the control valve to maintain a more consistent level of heater performance. Rebuilders:http://nyzcc.com/forums/cars-wanted/456

You can seal the fitting at the carb or plug the hole in the hose (maybe just reversing the one-way valve will do the trick even) . As you know your "power" brakes are no-longer "power brakes" so drive carefully. FYI Rock Auto has low cost remanufactured Gen 1 boosters. The default is ~ 2.5 turns down but you can adjust up or down from there in 1/4 turns to optimize. Tip: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread41940.html [TABLE=class: main, width: 957] <tbody>[TR] [TD=class: center, colspan: 5, align: center][TABLE=class: layout, width: 953] <tbody>[TR] [TD=class: center]Related Parts[/TD] [TD=class: right, align: right][/TD] [/TR] </tbody>[/TABLE] [/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TH=align: center]1971 NISSAN 240Z 2.4L L6 : Brake/Wheel Hub : Power Brake Booster Wiki[/TH] [TH=align: center]Price[/TH] [TH=align: center]Core[/TH] [TH=align: center]Total[/TH] [/TR] [TR=class: part0, bgcolor: #F0F0F0] [TD=class: alternate0][TABLE=class: parts, width: 803] <tbody>[TR] [TD=class: left, align: left][TABLE=class: layout, width: 756] <tbody>[TR] [TD=class: partlayout]A-1 CARDONE Part # 535245 Reman. A-1 CARDONE Vacuum Booster w/o Master Cylinder [/TD] [/TR] </tbody>[/TABLE] [/TD] [TD=class: right, align: right] [/TD] [/TR] </tbody>[/TABLE] [/TD] [TD=class: center leftrightborder pricebreakdown alternate0, align: center]$78.79[/TD] [TD=class: center leftrightborder middleborder pricebreakdown alternate0, align: center]$30.00[/TD] [TD=class: center boldfont leftrightborder pricebreakdown alternate0, align: center]$108.79[/TD] [/TR] [TR=class: part0, bgcolor: #F0F0F0] [TD=class: alternate0 right, colspan: 3, align: right]Add Part [/TD] [/TR] </tbody>[/TABLE]

Japanese racing white! Beautiful! Congrats!

!

"Big, nasty bumpers" Maybe the "Boobs" thread should be renamed to this thread's title?

Drive until the needle passes empty.

It was probably filled with freon. I have seen similar but larger tubes for cooling transistors on audio amplifiers and on telecommunication circuit packs. Most thermo-mechanical devices on cars use bimetal. Maybe the fluid filled tube was more convenient than bimetal for connecting the two distant parts.

I believe P90 and 90a came with 280zx turbos. All 3 have same chamber design. P90a has hydraulic lifters for quieter operation. P79 has exhaust liners to shape the flow.

Why not shim the bushing with a wrap or two of sheet metal and stuff it in? The wrap of sheet metal should be wide enough to serve both sides.

I think the distilled essence is that small light sports cars do not need a lot of HP to be fun.... like a 240z.

No, it is not supposed to have fluid in it. ... but I think the o-ring in the centre contact is there for a contingency of a leak into the centre chamber. The "o-rings" in the "dumbbell" keep the right side and left side fluids from mixing. The dumbbell slides left or right depending which side looses pressure. The contact hanging in the middle chamber (not shown well above) touches the metal part of the dumbbell and shorts to ground through the dumbbell and turns on the brake warning light.

Switch to "Think like an Egyptian" mode.

"Some kind of attempt at feedback to stabilize the output air temp in the face of changing heater core temperatures?" I agree with your guess.

Think "investment" and you will smile.

I am lost. Is the capillary tube the long cable-like part that connects to the door?

btw that fuel line ran along the outside of the car to the fuel door then down into the fuel tank as the hard lines were plugged. It had black duct tape over it so it looked like a racing stripe.