240260280z

In the field, I used this and a zip-lock bag to shrink the bushing and then the clutch alignment tool to press in the bushing dry (no grease). The hole in the crank should be free from burrs. A dab of moly grease swirled in the bushing/hole after installation is recommended.

The outside edge of the bushing should be flush with the inside edge of the bevel that is cut in the crank opening:

An engine mount can be used to hold engine with flywheel. 3 short head bolts and 1 long head bolt with iron pipe nipples and washers works fine.

Some detailed pics on this page showing a vac advance going in. The two fastening screws are the same on most distributors I have seen. The old vac advance may have corroded to the distributor housing (where it inserts). You may need some penetrating oil to loosen it up.

I agree, probably a vacuum leak where it whistles. It may be in the brake booster. 1st thing to do is to check your plugs. Too much fuel and plug fouling will bog you down. 2nd thing is to check fuel pump. Not enough fuel under load will cause bogging. 3rd thing is ignition. Ignition systems often fail at higher rpms.

Quick and dirty would be foil-backed tape then a wrap of stainless steel wire up and back crossing over.

Nope .

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Early 260z (pretty much a 240z) in Port Alberni $4k http://bc.kijiji.ca/c-ViewAdLargeImage?AdId=389400978

Beautiful! And Japanese racing white too!

http://www.gizmag.com/jet-powered-280zx/22656/

The outer part of the pulley slips when the rubber fails: If this happens and you still want to set the timing, simply put the car at Top Dead Centre and paint a new dot on the edge of the pulley where the timing pointer is. But you should buy a new pulley ASAP.

On my old toyota's, the valve was often high on the firewall in the engine compartment. Happy Hunting.

Good old toyota valve worked fine back in the day. Can't get any simpler.

Photos of the local track from back in the day (Atlantic Motorsport Park, Nova Scotia). Some datsun products easily spotted.

For 240z and 260z, the hose is ~ $15 for 280z ~$25. You can clamp the hose on that fixture and you are good to go in the interim.

The blue and white paired wire I spy is often used in the telephone industry I think. 120ohm/100ohm E1/T1 wire-wrap cross connects

Real DIY. Nice.

Probably just sand stuck in the valve... looks shiny though

Head swap would be faster and easier. Find an E88 cheap.

Just searched the web: Some heater control valves are "thermostatically controlled" with a capillary tube that extends into the heater air outlet. The capillary tube reacts to changes in the heater's output. This regulates the opening and closing of the control valve to maintain a more consistent level of heater performance. Rebuilders:http://nyzcc.com/forums/cars-wanted/456

You can seal the fitting at the carb or plug the hole in the hose (maybe just reversing the one-way valve will do the trick even) . As you know your "power" brakes are no-longer "power brakes" so drive carefully. FYI Rock Auto has low cost remanufactured Gen 1 boosters. The default is ~ 2.5 turns down but you can adjust up or down from there in 1/4 turns to optimize. Tip: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread41940.html [TABLE=class: main, width: 957] <tbody>[TR] [TD=class: center, colspan: 5, align: center][TABLE=class: layout, width: 953] <tbody>[TR] [TD=class: center]Related Parts[/TD] [TD=class: right, align: right][/TD] [/TR] </tbody>[/TABLE] [/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TH=align: center]1971 NISSAN 240Z 2.4L L6 : Brake/Wheel Hub : Power Brake Booster Wiki[/TH] [TH=align: center]Price[/TH] [TH=align: center]Core[/TH] [TH=align: center]Total[/TH] [/TR] [TR=class: part0, bgcolor: #F0F0F0] [TD=class: alternate0][TABLE=class: parts, width: 803] <tbody>[TR] [TD=class: left, align: left][TABLE=class: layout, width: 756] <tbody>[TR] [TD=class: partlayout]A-1 CARDONE Part # 535245 Reman. A-1 CARDONE Vacuum Booster w/o Master Cylinder [/TD] [/TR] </tbody>[/TABLE] [/TD] [TD=class: right, align: right] [/TD] [/TR] </tbody>[/TABLE] [/TD] [TD=class: center leftrightborder pricebreakdown alternate0, align: center]$78.79[/TD] [TD=class: center leftrightborder middleborder pricebreakdown alternate0, align: center]$30.00[/TD] [TD=class: center boldfont leftrightborder pricebreakdown alternate0, align: center]$108.79[/TD] [/TR] [TR=class: part0, bgcolor: #F0F0F0] [TD=class: alternate0 right, colspan: 3, align: right]Add Part [/TD] [/TR] </tbody>[/TABLE]

Japanese racing white! Beautiful! Congrats!

!

"Big, nasty bumpers" Maybe the "Boobs" thread should be renamed to this thread's title?