240260280z

Thanks! I missed that one when I looked at SR. It looks perfect

You could not have stated it any better... when they do that small slip,it is startling and can hurt flesh or metal if one does not pay attention.

A good scrub with a plastic or soft brass wire brush to clean off the dirt from the threads, holes, margins and surfaces before removing any part is a good practise. It will also allow a penetrating spray to easily reach the margins rather than be blocked or absorbed. Don't go too aggressively and brush off the plating. Clean surfaces also allow tools to connect properly without marring/slipping. Clean threads are an absolute must when removing tapered thread nuts. For cotter pins, try to get the two sides parallel and wrinkle free like a new pin, then push through only a wee bit, you can then stick an object through the round hole at the other end and pry it out.

For once FOX seems to have less spin than usual. I would have expected a Hummer as #1 I looked at the Healey Wiki page and saw this interesting shape from '61. A year before the 250GTO.

Here is the kit: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/PEC27/15-6309 Dimensionally, this is what I need: Can anyone recommend one?

Did you consider a P90 head? If so, what made you go with the N42?

Check Section BE-2 (Body Electrical) in 78FSM. It shows and describes all wiring harnesses.

Congrats!! Looking forward to pics. Wow 127, 137, and 147 are all in Canada. I bet there are more and 117 will be the next given the sequence.

Congrats on getting SN #147... you scooped it from Ross and I. Best Wishes and Grrrrrrrrr you owe me beer for that next time we meet! 147 beer. Philip

Impressive. I look forward to following this thread. You are now a "pioneer" with that transplant!

Fuel Rail

I like happy endings.

Beautiful car!

The front differential cross member?

Nice reports!

Step 1. CheckSpark: (DONE) Step 2. Check Fuel Flow: Disconnect rubber hose at return line near engine fuel filter. (Disconnect where the rubber line goes to the hard line to the tank).Connect rubber line to empty 2 litre soda pop bottle and crank. If fuel flows into bottle then you have flow. If no flow then you may have rubber lines to fuel rail crossed. Step 3. Check Injectors: They should "click" when you crank. Listen to them with a stethoscope or long screw driver. Plugs should also be wet. Report back

They clean up real good:

Comet and Ajax are great cleaners, abrasives and degreasers in one.

Thanks for the great idea Carl, I just applied it to the Jan '71 I am restoring. In my situation I expanded on your idea. I simply used an engine lift-point head bracket (the longer one with the twist) and connected it to one of the M10 bolts that fastens the transmission to it's front cover plate (next to the slave). Perfect location and fit without having to fabricate. I'll take a picture the next time I am back at it. I guess I could even fab a plastic "strake" to protect the slave from debris and water if I was OCD or racing

Nice reads: http://datsunzgarage.com/ http://www.oocities.org/inlinestroker/

< $800 L28 block with Zx distributor < $1500 head, cam, valve job, porting, gasket set ~ $700 poly kit, new shocks and springs You will be very happy. A smaller diameter steering wheel is very nice too.

Looks like you have the ball and socket TC rod kit installed already; so just get a new delrin insert and a rubber bushing for the back. For the end links, I would get the polyurethane type. They do not contribute to roughness of ride however they make your car turn much nicer.

What is the purpose of the wing nut on the link through the firewall? How does one set its proper location?

Those exhaust liners flow fine. Just have a machine shop mill the exhaust valve guides flush with the roof of the runner.