240260280z

It is a proven power gain by Norm on Zcar.com! Looks beautiful too! Cut some baby stacking rings in half and fix to the opening inside the filter for improved air flow or use the horns from the orange one.

My apology and correction, the wires were not damaged by the fan, it was damaged by a pulley (back in 2007). Here is a photo of the damage:

I would guess that a wire between the distributor and the coil/ballast may have come loose or broke when the SU work was done. A friend's 260z would randomly die and it turned out to be an exposed wire from the distributor that had it's insulation damaged by the fan and it would intermittently be blown by the fan wind when driving and short to the metal in the area and kill the ignition system. You seem to have a similar strange happening. Check the low voltage wiring closely at the distributor/fan area.

check this out: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?25857-Rating-the-factory-240Z-fuel-vent-hoses

Innovate LM-1 In the cabin: Innovate LM-1 crudely attached to the exhaust using a broken pipe and steel wire: Correct pickup: The 260z:

Glad to help that beautiful car of yours!

Some ideas: 1. Balance Tube: grind, then weld with aluminum then polish or grind, jb weld, smooth then paint as you suggested. Or get an early 240z balance tube. 2. For air filter, stretch a nylon sock over the mouth For your fuel lines: Run the fuel lines below the carbs. Use a straight piece of polished steel or aluminum line for most of the fuel line run with rubber at the ends for convenient connections relocate the fuel filter between the pump and the tank For your plug wires: dress the plug wires around the front of the motor

Just a photo update. Flew the template copied from the saggy ripped-up original 1000km and installed. Many holes were way off the mark or not suitable in shape or size. Re cut and drew centres to fit....now to make "Mark I"

http://www.picturetrail.com/sfx/album/view/1803105

Absolutely sound advice with numbers behind it! FYI Here is what the 72 FSM gives for temp and altitude compensation:

follow the wiring from battery to pump and measure 12v as you go at all connectors. Don't worry about other efi components at this time: "work the problem". Just turn key to on and connect afm switch (move flap up) to ensure power to pump path is in a running mode before you start your hunt. Here is a wiring diagram:http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/wiringdiagrams/76_280z_wiring.pdf

If the problem turns out to be the relay, here is a peek:

Anyone?

It was on an old 260z 2+2 that I helped a guy revive in 2006. I forget what brand... maybe British: Ahhh I found these pics. Yup they are British "Mag Product" looks like 6 X 14" Web Research: MAG: Mill Accessory Group Found some similar on French Car Forums with 914's.

There is not much to a distributor: In the picture below, Part #12 (Shaft) turns inside part #13 (Housing). The housing has a bushing that keeps the shaft in place. Your problem is either a bent shaft or a worn bushing. Shaft Housing showing bushing

Did you check the switch inside the AFM that sends current to the pump?

From the wiki link: Fast and slow charge and discharge The capacity of a lead-acid battery is not a fixed quantity but varies according to how quickly it is discharged. An empirical relationship exists between discharge rate and capacity, known as Peukert's law. When a battery is charged or discharged, this initially affects only the reacting chemicals, which are at the interface between the electrodes and the electrolyte. With time, the charge stored in the chemicals at the interface, often called "interface charge", spreads by diffusion of these chemicals throughout the volume of the active material. If a battery has been completely discharged (e.g. the car lights were left on overnight) and next is given a fast charge for only a few minutes, then during the short charging time it develops only a charge near the interface. The battery voltage may rise to be close to the charger voltage so that the charging current decreases significantly. After a few hours this interface charge will spread to the volume of the electrode and electrolyte, leading to an interface charge so low that it may be insufficient to start the car. On the other hand, if the battery is given a slow charge, which takes longer, then the battery will become more fully charged. During a slow charge the interface charge has time to redistribute to the volume of the electrodes and electrolyte, while being replenished by the charger. The battery voltage remains below the charger voltage throughout this process allowing charge to flow into the battery. Similarly, if a battery is subject to a fast discharge (such as starting a car, a current draw of more than 100 amps) for a few minutes, it will appear to go dead, exhibiting reduced voltage and power. However, it may have only lost its interface charge. If the discharge is halted for a few minutes the battery may resume normal operation at the appropriate voltage and power for its state of discharge. On the other hand, if a battery is subject to a slow, deep discharge (such as leaving the car lights on, a current draw of less than 7 amps) for hours, then any observed reduction in battery performance is likely permanent.

As a rule of thumb; lead-acid batteries should not be drained beyond 1/2 charge if one wants them to last for a long time. Car batteries are designed (plates sizes, spacing, and geometry) for short burst of high current output not long periods of low current output. Which what leaving one's lights on does. In charging a battery, there are also electrochemical related inefficiencies and heat losses, Good read: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lead–acid_battery

read this stuff: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?37308-Kia-Sportage-weatherstip-rocks!&highlight=hatch+seal http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?42860-Installing-weather-strip-sucks!-Especially-the-hatch&highlight=hatch+seal http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?37850-hatch-window-seal-MSA-vs.-VB-pics&highlight=hatch+seal

It is someone's mini with SU's. Looks like somewhere in Europe.

Internet arguments (the friendly Ancient Greek way like this) are not productive when we are both partially correct and both partially incorrect... I concede and we owe each other beers It has motivated me however: I just pulled out my USB AtoD developer kit, some Motorola air pressure sensors , some VB books and loaded VB5 on my laptop.... my flow bench project that was stopped many years ago when my friends/co-workers back stabbed me and I momentarily lost my job and career is now back in business I hope to have a calibrated system running soon for measuring this stuff.

I do not agree. The piston is an air restriction up stream of the throttle valve. In fact, there is a rubber bumper on the piston to prevent it from completely closing and blocking all air. As well, my O2 sensor goes very lean when I lift one piston so I am adding more air and reducing fuel at the same time. The air from the three non-firing cylinders dilutes the exhaust gas.

On throttle linkage... sort of yellow nylon to begin with so not a big change like the strikers. Changed the metal a little too. Red flecks were from my paint brush and the work done earlier today.