240260280z

http://racingotaku.wordpress.com/2009/06/08/best-f1-engine/ Makes me wish I kept my 1.5 Toyota Echo. Gotta go out back and season my Pee-30 block.

I did a little net searching and found that the N36 did work better in race applications at WOT. Read this thread: http://www.zcar.com/70-83_tech_discussion_forum/n36_hoax_631455.0.html What I would like to see is actual flow testing on a flow bench. I should make the one I have been procrastinating all these years.

You will enjoy this. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/content.php?151-Brake-caliper-restoration FYI my S2000 only has a single piston as stock on the front and it is a heavier car than a Z and the single piston works fine for spirited street driving. Newer brake pad compounds and the z's 2 piston calipers will do nicely. You really only need vented rotors if you track-it or if you don't now how to drive smoothly in the streets/traffic and constantly ride the brakes. S2000 Single Piston Caliper:

Probably not a big difference between the two. The line is for coolant flow to heat the manifold and carbs. Something you do not want in the summer so if you don'd drive in Indiana in the late fall or winter, you do not need it. The pipe ads a little structural strength.

ditto, the switch at the bottom of the key cylinder has caused many of us problems. It is a $20 part.

The stock brakes are pretty good for the street. Just refresh the system (inspect, flush, new seals(if needed), new hoses (if needed), new pads, shoes and rotors (if needed). You can swap sumitomo front 2 piston calipers with sumitomo front 4 piston calipers: $350 here or ~ $100 if you buy the parts carefully. Here is a simple step-by-step guide to the 4 piston upgrade: http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/toyotabrakeupgrade/index.html

What year? Try www.blackdragonauto.com

Wow! It looks like 1978 again.

Look at the parts and pictures here to get idea of dimensions relative to the bushings and washers. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/suspension/comprod/ball&socket/index.htm I'll be back at my '71 resto on Saturday and can measure detailed dimension and post to this thread then. btw you may be able to just use a non-stock compression-tension rod like this and not have to worry about it. This solution may be less costly than the fabrication and welding of new bushing seats. http://www.zccjdm.com/catalog.php/azcarbum/dt93255/pd1987788/ADJ._TENSION_CONTROL_RODS__ZCAR__510__#IMAGES

Looks fine.

If your car is running clean plugs but you worry about detonation due to higher ambiant temperature, turbo boost or higher compression, you can try a colder plug (ZFR7F). Just make sure it does not foul up due to black deposits.

I would suggest finding an alternative or getting a metal shop to fabricate then weld on. Maybe an exhaust tube and sheet metal disc will do the trick for materials. Here is a photo of what you need:

Works fine

Ahh the wonderful elves that put everything right when we are all asleep strike again Thanks!

I would like to edit and correct it but the forum is locked after 1 hour so the error is trapped. I bet a mod will fix it though.

1977 280z with 280zx distributor installed. When engine is at TDC, the distributor has already swept past the #1 spark post. At TDC note the angle of the spindle tang that engages the distributor.

BRE_Z_Mods.pdf