240260280z

Yes!

I'll be in Alaska south of Anchorage for the next 2 weeks. Any Z owners want to meet?

I'm looking for a block for vin 147... no stone left unturned.... if you have a pre l24-6000 block and feel benevolent PM me. Also accepting fenders, hatches and hoods from Nov 69 Z'z Cyber Beggar

Pocket Knife!

To set up your webers there are a few important things to do: 0. Make sure all 3 carbs are the same type (model and s/n are on the top cover). 1. Make sure the linkage is sync'd between all carbs and there is no slop. the 6 throttle valves all have to open and close together 2. Make sure there are no air leaks into the intake manifold 3. Make sure the carbs have the same internal components (fuel jets, emulsion tubes, air correctors, chokes, etc). 4. Make sure the fuel level in all 3 carbs is the same and ~ 29mm down from the top of the carb body (bottom of cover gasket) 5. Read all you can about webers in the archives on this site. Please have a look at the carb jets, chokes, etc and report back to this thread then we can walk you through tuning. Find a friend with a wideband O2 sensor that you can tune with. Buy and STE Synchronometer.

I'm interested. Please PM me. Thanks!

Dan, now that I am remembering this, questions: Is the metal that holds the mirror chromed or stainless? Any special tool for hammering back the lip while the mirror is in place?

QUESTIONS: 1. Tires: What are recommended acceptable 72 240z tires for ZCON stock judging. 2. The driver's side mirror is cracked. Can the glass be easily changed out? If not, is there a suitable modern replacement acceptable for ZCON stock judging? 3. Is there a suitable modern seat cover replacement acceptable for ZCON stock judging? If so who is the supplier? Thanks!

WOW that is great. Paypal is waiting! Please ship at your leisure. I got the SK dippity doo tool today! Double Thanks!

Picked up Rims and hubcaps that were stored with just 1 week on the car. $300

Doing brakes on my Honda Insight. Everything is Aluminum and this causes a lot of dissimilar metal corrosion. Sadly I broke a brake bleeder on the 2nd caliper I was rebuilding. I dug around and found this fix. I hope it helps others: Napa sell them too. http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Result.aspx?Ntt%3dbleeder%2bscrew%2brepair%26Ntk%3dKeyword%26Nty%3d1%26Dn%3d0%26D%3dbleeder%2bscrew%2brepair%26Dk%3d1%26Dp%3d3%26N%3d0

It's still in my Blue 77. Put it in ~ 10 years ago.

Before/After Scotch Brite:

Do plugs indicate lean when it happens? Could it be the distributor and something like a loose wire or the electronic module flaking out?

Funny you said that. Your spider senses must have been tingling.... Yesterday I just lifted it of the garage floor, removed the wooden pallet and placed it on a new table I just bought. Preparing for a fall and winter of fun and wonder! I still have to break in the motor but that is in the queue.

Jim=1 : Z=0 you won! Great game to watch! OT too.

I use a scotch brite pad only for refreshing metal surfaces like cams. Too shiny/smooth and no oil will embed.

$$$$$ Purchase on Kijiji 1972 Radiator1972 Starter1972 Alternator $50 Extras thrown in: Zcar Clymer BookNissan Solenoid Switch NIB72 Speedo (starts at 10mph)72 Tach72 Radio BezelU-Joint NIBNot sure if I need any of this stuff but I couldn't resist.

You could pull the control arm (and wheels) back by reversing the bushings in the control arm where it connects to the cross member but it may reduce the caster and make the car squirely.

Only garter and green snakes here. They are quite rare too. Maybe see one every two years. Deer ticks would be the worst bug. No poisonous spiders. Wasps seem to like Z's for nesting.

Does your 510 have the stock DAF carb? I can post some info if you need it.

Knock yourself out kid: http://www.the510realm.com/

Jim the typical install is poly in front and rubber in back to prevent breaking the t/c rod. The front poly is the rocking point and the back is compliant. It is more for up/down control arm movement than front back t/c rod movement.

Hi Jim, Weird problem. The stock rubber on my 280z had ~ 7 to 8 threads showing when tensioned. I will guess it was factory at the point I swapped in poly then the ball and socket http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/suspension/comprod/index.html

I think the gauge is dead. If so, don't try to burnish the bi-metal heater contacts inside as it will remove the special metal coating. Just try to bend them so that fresh metal touched fresh metal.