240260280z

I was just under a 71 240z and noted the transmission tunnel holes for the bolts were M10 X 1.25mm pitch. The bolts poke into the tunnel so you should treat the ends and use antiseize as they will see the elements btw I got the pic off this great site: http://carfiche.com/fiche009/s30/index.pl?6:i:6

http://carfiche.com/fiche009/s30/index.pl?6:i:6

http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/suspension.htm

Maybe the springs and linkage to the throttle valve are "inconsistent". Mechanical binding or mechanical-binding-with-heat or weak return spring could be the issue. Try disassembling, cleaning, and lubing the complete linkage and throttle valves. Start at pedal and go all the way through. Lithium grease works great in the ball and socket joints. Also check carb function. If float bowl level varies or piston return height varies then you could see this variance. Also check choke function and see if any thermal related cable tension is dropping jets. Maybe go to the hardware store and experiment with a couple of new supplemental springs to assist in throttle return. Finally, check the oil in the carbs and maybe try heavier and lighter and none to see if it makes a difference.... maybe try this one first.

Luv Da family spirit here!

Excellent and quick feedback gang! I'll try the heat first. THANKS!

I am restoring a 71 240z with fibreglass rear quarter panels. The installer of the panels did not remove the fuel filler line (~ 2.25" pipe) directly below the gas cap because of either laziness or because of hole size. I now wish to remove it and install it properly but I will have to cut it out as it is sandwiched at the top between the quarter panel and some inner metal . It is not pliable so I can not pull from the top or bottom (the 3 big philips screws on the back are off) Since the existing line is very hard and it seems harder than I recall on my 280z; I am hoping that a replacement part will be pliable so that I can fit properly. Does anyone know if these lines harden over time? Are new ones softer?

Seems like the switch contacts behind the key.

Thanks all, I am nearly done. I tried so many iterations of welding to the studs but they would not budge. I decided to drill out from the top so I carefully cut into the deck floor to expose the studs from the top using a jigsaw and careful "plotting". They were fusion rusted! I have drilled out 2 studs to 3/8" from above using lots of cutting oil. 2 more to go then I will follow John C's advice. I sort of used all the advice from all of you! BIG THANKS. I'll post some photos soon. BTW this 71 Z was winter driven here in Atlantic Canada for its first 5 years. This area is proving grounds for rust protection due to road salt, salt sea spray, salt fog, constant rain and mist, winters ~ freezing with nearly daily melting and thawing of road moisture and salt. Sadly a rusted stuck bolt here is a very common occurrence.

I used an on-line calc here and got 9.2:1 with maxima N47 head. F54 with 86mm bore 10.9cc dished pistons L28 crank 79mm stroke L28 rods 1mm Felpro head gasket Maxima N47 head 38.5cc

Excellent "thoughtful planning". I especially like the rivnut / nutsert implementation. You will like it when you prep for a show and can take the whole tip to a polishing bench. a moot btw... I thought of an internal spacer for the 2" to 2.25" pipe and simply using a stock exhaust adapter pipe and slicing it sideways to just have the ring would do the trick... or getting a flat strap of 1" wide sheet metal then hammering/vice-ing 1/8" undulations in it, then wrapping around your inner pipe would do the trick if in a bind.

Yes, and that was back in mid-April; ~ 10 weeks ago. With respect to the bypass screw affecting a/f ratio over the whole range, you should recheck your claim. Its effect greatly diminishes as the flap opens.

Hi Arne, I just cleaned the chromed tips on my S2000 and they are removable (part #12 in diagram below). They have an M6 (Part #22) bolt that goes through the chrome cap "finisher" and holds it against the muffler's tip. I was thinking of your application when I did this work: You can probably adapt the same idea with your Z and use stainless steel bolts and lock washers or tapping screws to secure your cap to the muffler. It will also remover your need to weld the chrome part (which may mess up the metal due to heat and spatter). Here is how Honda secures it:

Great! Enjoy the summer!

I read about someone using a scissor jack as a sideways press, some blocks for mating the ends of the jack, and the differential as the base for pushing. Most clever I thought. I used a slide hammer and struggled. When reassembling, use the nuts from a 280zx rather than a 2x0z as they do not need to be peened.

Bummer and sad. Can you take it back to the shop that dropped the ball? They should be responsible for their error

Beautiful work

Well it seems your coil is dead or the points are not working or the wire from the points to the coil is broken or improperly connected . Can you inspect these?

Congrats! You are there now! Way to go. I like a Z with cam sprocket on #3... it moves your power band into higher RPMS. Please check your head at a machine shop to see if it is not warped. That can cause the leaks at front and back that you discovered. Also when you reassemble, be sure to clean out the head bolt holes in the block and clean the head bolt threads... just oil them and you are good to go. Also I like to put the head across two small blocks of wood (like a bridge) or on its side so that the valves do not rest on anything. Keep us updated and ask any questions. btw for removing the cam sprocket without rotating it, you can do this:

Am I the only one seeing a face with shaving cream?

180 out is no problem but the plugs must also be 180 out so instead of 153624 it will be 624153. If your plugs are not correct the car won't run at all and you will get pops and backfire when cranking.

Studied at Concordia in 88. Love the city.F1 was great in the rain on the 12th. For your problem I am not sure how to proceed as my Z and others I worked on did not have shrouds. Check the details in the Factory Service Manual. You can get one here: http://hammondsplains.com/fsm/

http://www.bangkokclassiccar.com/forum/index.php?topic=11467.0

The fusible link the other chaps are referring to is the white wire to the starter in this picture You should check to see if you have 12V at the coil positive terminal with the key on.

Yeah it looks weird. Could be a glitch in the image but the rear plate seems stuck out: