240260280z

YEs, probably water pump. btw I was in just Montreal.

Typical quality control... we were just complaining about a leaking header... if the simple pressure test was done, or in your case a spin on a jig then these problems would never leave the factory... My observation of many of today's car parts suppliers......they are starting to polish turds pretty good.

Yes, don't ever tow a Z from these points! I saw a friends brake loose when the towing vehicle turned at low speed. Good thing it happened before on the highway.

Rust in frame rails. Look at the rail in the wheel well just behind the front wheels as well as under the driver and passenger seats. Also look below the battery and on the rear hatch opening with the hatch open. Price is what you think is fair.

I got this Feb 1970 in SC :http://hammondsplains.com/zcars4sale/240z/greenfeb1970/index.htm. It was $4k plus another $1k for shipping to Calais Maine.

I'll need an l24 in front of me to recommend exact solution for spring anchor point. Look for a free nut in the area below and cobble something with an aluminum bracket or even stainless steel wire. Maybe use some sort of washer with hook below or some sort of bracket like this mounted to the carb mounting bolts and facing down:

Try the exhaust manifold. I have read that some have pulled valve cover and chained to cam but I would not do this unless I planned to use a new head. Some of the upper bolts on the bell housing could also be used for read hoist point.

Try the exhaust manifold. I have read that some have pulled valve cover and chained to cam but I would not do this unless I planned to use a new head. Some of the upper bolts on the bell housing could also be used for read hoist point.

Quality and good materials has gone out the door for nearly everything... coffee makers, refrigerators, dishwashers, car parts, camera's, music instruments, lawn mowers, light bulbs, tools, TV's, etc. I heard of a chromed valve cover shipped with a gasket still on it.... and chromed too. More posts like this will force the supplier (MSA) to vet it's vendors better.

Ma Po Tofu from Tianjin please

Not having the chokes hooked up makes it easier. When you turn the knurled screw to bring jet all the way up until it stops, the top of the jet should be flush with the brass cylinder top that the jet resides in. The jet should move easily when the knurled screw is turned by hand. Any binding will be caused by gunk or corrosion between the jet and the sleeve (brass cylinder in which the jet moves). After you get the jets moving freely in their sleeves, the needle should be set to it drops all the way down and it's shoulder sits on top of the jet and effectively closes the space between the two.

Clean and lube the carb: 0. Make sure the choke connection to the jet works correctly and the jets raise and lower easily with the choke cables. 1. Take out the jet and clean it as well as the tube where it fits. Spray carb cleaner works great 2. Once cleaned insert the jet and move it by hand up and down. Check for binding. 3. If it still binds, you may wish to gently sand jet with emery paper to help. PS Spray carb cleaner on all that black stuff and wipe with blue shop rags until just grey aluminum. Do the same for the pistons and domes. Clean carbs work better than carbon-gummed carbs.

OK, so no spark after the distributor. Now check to see if there is spark before the distributor: 1. Pull the short HV wire at centre of the distributor. 2. Place the open end of this wire up near one of the 3 bolts on the strut tower. Have the metal contact ~ 1/4" or less from one of the nuts on the strut tower. 3. Crank the car and you should see a spark jump. Results: If you have a spark that means ignition (breaker/points and coil) are ok and the problem is most likely distributor cap, rotor, or plug wires If you do not have a spark then the problem is coil or breaker/points or power to ignition system.

do you have spark at plugs?

Jode you are so kind and a great person, your mom and dad are proud Happy Father's Day to a great daughter!

The pulley turns clockwise as viewed from the front, so the first tick to sweep past the pointer should be 0 degrees with the others are at 5 degrees apart. In your photo, the top tick is 0. Maybe paint it yellow or red The painted link on the timing chain may or may not line up. It does not matter. Just get piston in highest position and two front cam lobes for cylinder #1 up- then you are good for TDC. You can put a screwdriver in plug hole #1 and watch the piston raise and push the screwdriver up as you turn the crank to double check TDC. You can go back and forth to get it perfectly at top

You can use a mechanics stethoscope and find it quickly. It may be one of your accessories or even a fan clutch that is seized and the fan is hitting something. Beware of mechanics who try to look like Freddy Mercury.

You need a welder with car experience. Check yellow pages under welding. You can also check with the local car racing community. There are usually experts in the area who are much better than the shops and care about cars.

Here is a step-by-step I posted for your job: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?42420-77-280z-head-removal-step-by-step-photos To set TDC just put car in neutral, pull plugs and turn motor at crank using a big socket (27mm if I recall correctly) Turn the crank until the mark on the damper pulley matches with the "0" on the degree timing scale. Check to see that the two cam lobes for cylinder 1 are "relatively" pointing up. You have to remove oil cap and feel the lobes. You can check Cylinder #1 plug holeand should see the top of the cylinder.

As Arne says, it is your taste. I never liked the centre arms of Watanabe's and knock-offs (Rewinds) but I love the deep rim aspect of most. I never liked the Enkei Mesh style but liked the low mass design I never liked the slotted Mags or Centrelines. I never liked Diamond Racing wheels but like the fact they can be customized I love turbine style rims but hate cleaning them I love wire wheels but do not like the performance or cleaning them I love some newer rims like Bad Dog Parts (John Jeffrey's) tasteful performance. I love the look of some similar new rims but not the harsh ride, pounding of suspension, and toy Hot Wheels look: Here is example of cool but too big and Hot Wheels This one is better size: This too (My fav 'cause so deep): I do not like any of the stock Datsun rims. And don't forget the cool Cherry Blossoms when you want performance packaged with Hello Kitty cuddles: Here are some photos to enjoy: http://www.google.com/search?q=240z+wheels&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=isch&source=og&sa=N&hl=en&tab=wi&biw=1280&bih=713

Pics of bushing job on 280z throughout this site: http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/ Here is mustache bar example: http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/moustache/index.html

http://www.ecowelder.com/applications#!__videos Seems to weld any metal and also dissimilar metals as well as cutting, brazing and soldering.... smart Russians!

Bad damper pulley? Carbon on some pistons throwing off rotating mass balance? Coupled oscillator?