240260280z

Great! Thanks! Just what the doctor ordered! I tried using a flat screwdriver like the putty knives but no luck. I'll try with the knives then fall back to scissor jack as back up. Thanks all!

Re-doing rear control arms. The outer bushings (Hyperflex) are ~ 2mm too thick. The hub assembly does not fit between them. The last time I did this I had to sand the bushings. I did read after that some freeze the bushings before installation but 2mm seems like a lot of "shrinkage" (George?). Anyway can anyone vouch for the freezing trick or is there something else that is easier?

Yup...that is what most do. It is sad that MSA only went 75% of the way to do it right.

FS4W71A Overhauled - Disassembled - New seals - Refreshed all corroding bolts and holes - lots of anti-seize for the next guy to have at it - fixed sticking striker - fixed seized reverse protective stopper - fixed seized throw out and collar - ospho and acid primed yoke - just need to paint it New bolts in differential plates

Made it work. The problem was the striker bar. It was binding in the sleeve in the tail section and that was causing the reassembly problem... so I filed the bindy-bit and it worked fine. Closed the mid and rear and went through the gears and no reverse, opened it up again grrrrrrr and everything seemed ok... then I noted the reverse safety stopper/spring... it was too tight. Took the mechanism off the rod off then apart. Had to scotch brite the sliding shaft and cut 2 coils from the small spring that pushed a locking ball bearing. For testing I could barely work it by hand which seemed ok. Before I cut the coils I could not budge the stopper. Reassembled and all is well... 4 speeds + reverse! Pics in article section soon.

It is statistically better for a cyclist (bicycle kind) to wear a helmet when in a car than on a bicycle to prevent head injury. Numbers are funny things. Here in Nova Scotia, helmets are legislated both on motor cycle and bicycle riders.... next cars? I can't understand getting a driving with no seat belt fine when bikes do it all the time.

fyi there is a good article HERE on refreshing the standard clocks... change a few caps and transistor then voila. KEEP THE ARTICLES SECTION GROWING!

Nice hair though.

Did you do anything with the o-rings where the striker bar passes when you rebuilt?

Sorry, yes it is the early 4 speed. Thanks! I have two B version 4 speeds here but it is the original owner who wants the resto and all original (A Type). I had even offered a 5 speed but no go.

Yokohama AS430. Made in USA. Maybe Japaneses ones are better.

Nexan's 5000 are nice as well as all Falkens I have tried. Quiet, sticky, good in water. The falkens wear faster. I have Yokohamas on my S2000. Scary in rain and Rear's have worn in the middle. I dropped pressure from 32psi to 28psi and still centre wear.

Thanks! I had to tap the tail section off but at the same time, drive the selector shaft towards the front of the transmission. It seems the 0-rings were holding it up. I also took out the speedo unit. Not sure how I'll "easily" put it back together. I can see that the selector shaft was welded (non-factory) at the 90 degree bend. Anyone have a spare selector shaft?

I am stuck and need guidance: I am taking an early 4 speed transmission (monkey box) apart. I am stuck with the housing. So far I have the front bell housing and middle housing off. The tail section is not coming off. I have the speedo and reverse switch as well as cotterpin and crosspin at the shifter. I have a spare B transmission and tried removing the speedo fitting (the one with the hod down clip) but it does not turn out. Any tips are welcome. Thanks!

Rear Differential hangers and cross members Fuel, Evap, & brake lines

Nope, no impact gun here. I do respect them but never needed one. I just have a hammer drill but that mostly attacks cement fasteners. I also curse the mechanics who over tighten lug nuts with them... seems to happen often.

I concur. If MSA wants to raise the bar a low loss glass pack should be included with their kit. The darn pipe is too long and howls at 2800rpm due to resonance of tube principals. Here is my experience with a droning MsA turbo exhaust : http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/exhaust/index.html

Wow that must have been a "squirrely" front end at high speed if the camber bushings were like that prior to the work! I had a right rear shock go and the ride was "snakey".

Blasphemy!!! Levers are a man's best friend.... just need a longer breaker bar.....size does matter! Below is the worst Nut on the Z.... no problem:)

I can't recall about the gasket orientation. Many coat it with antiseize on both sides to prep it. For cleaning pistons here is a solution I read: Put a ring of grease or vaseline around the edge to seal the ring areas. Use a solvent like carb cleaner, brake cleaner, or kerosene to soak the piston tops and soften the carbon. Use a wooden stick to scrape the tops if needed. Wipe up and then wipe away the grease. Lightly oil the cylinder walls. Be sure to change the oil after you install the head.

The transmission bolts look same as door bolts in the drawing. The rear hatch area bolts look longest in the drawing but it may not be to scale. WAIT: Just found this: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?22987-Seat-Belt-Bolts

spray wd 40 in the cylinders after washing and keep them well oiled too. rings will rust if you get moisture in there.

I was just under a 71 240z and noted the transmission tunnel holes for the bolts were M10 X 1.25mm pitch. The bolts poke into the tunnel so you should treat the ends and use antiseize as they will see the elements btw I got the pic off this great site: http://carfiche.com/fiche009/s30/index.pl?6:i:6

http://carfiche.com/fiche009/s30/index.pl?6:i:6

http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/suspension.htm