240260280z

Hardway is first class!

It is to keep the contact surface of the rocker centred under the cam lobe. If you did not thicken the lash pad, the adjuster would have to go higher and tilt. This will affect the so-called "wipe pattern" and the lobe may roll off the correct region and get damaged every time it rotates. Fig.1 Measuring Fig. 2 Good Wipe Fig3. Bad Wipe

THE Original STIG?????

Hi All, I'm going to start up a new tech-tips web site. Just trying to think of a good domain name. I have a few but I thought I'd throw it out here as well for your suggestions. Thanks!

vinegar is supposed to be best. I used it once and it worked great. I just read that letting 3% Hydrogen peroxide sit for a while also does a good job... it has minimal smell.

Nope.... the white stuff is best. We put it on french fries in Canada... btw it is a big component in Ketchup so you put it on your french fries too and may not know FYI it works great on crusty road salt on carpet as well.... we also put salt on our french fries. The next time I have french fries in the car I'll just roll them under the brake pedal for seasoning. yummie. Actually the smell of the vinegar will not last too long. Especially if you just wipe with a cloth or mist then wipe away. Sulphuric is another beast altogether: my wife's co-worker tipped a battery in the back seat area and the car always smelled like vinegar. They went to detail shops several times. They somehow sold it (buyer probably had no sense of smell).... reminded us of the Seinfeld episode with the stinky car. Now to make it fish and chips: We vacationed in PEI a few years ago and bought fish and chips at a road side take-out. We drove with the stuff in brown paper bags for less than 30min then ate it in the cottage. The car stunk like fish for over a month!

I consider Tony a friend and have never met him. He says it as it is 99% of the time and is usually correct. He is just getting older and the curmudgeon is showing more these days. FYI it seems to be somewhat easy to rebuild a water pump if you have press. We just need a source for the bearing and seals. This farmer convinced me it is an easier job than modern pressed in wheel bearing. It may be possible to remove the bearing and seals from a new pump with pressed impeller and migrate to the original Nissan pump with cast impeller. I may take a few old ones apart this winter when it is cold and boring here in Canada. Just gotta see for myself how hard it is to do...new territory is always fun to explore on these beasties. Say Hi to Tony from Blue! Look See!!!:

Wipe with vinegar on a rag. Kills mould.

Rubik's Cube Holder... NISMO option in the 80's.

Source: http://motor.geocities.jp/atakausa/index.html

Hi Guys, I'll be in Malaysia in a few weeks for work. Ill be near Mersing. Meeting may be fun if not too far away. If I can swing it I may hop over to Kuala Lumpur for the F1 race. Are there any shops or websites where I could get Z/S30 parts easily while there? Thanks!

Your carbs' fuel metering is not balanced, The front carb is not giving enough fuel. I will assume needles are mounted correctly in the SU pistons and that the SU pistons are not binding and there are no intake leaks: 1. Check to make sure the jet nozzles move up and down freely and that the choke is not causing either to be up or down (for tuning I always disconnect the choke wires at the carbs and push the jets all the way up "just to make sure"). 2. Adjust the jet level on the bottom of the front carb lower (to give more fuel) then drive for a bit then check the plug #2 and compare to the plug #4's colour. Keep adjusting the front jet level until both are the same. This should fix your plug colour. From experience, your loss of power is either inadequate fuel delivery (debris in tank, weak fuel pump, low fuel bowl levels) or a failing/maladjusted points distributor or failing condenser).

I finally bought an early FSM to help better restore #249. I have the '77 FSM for Blue then moved to digital since then but the compression of the online FSM's loose a lot of detail. FYI:

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/JDM-NISSAN-FAIRLADY-Z-S30-GS30-Series-Original-Genuine-Parts-List-Catalog-/182258081429?hash=item2a6f6d9e95:g:RfAAAOSwZkJUTKjT&vxp=mtr

Hoovered this. May be of interest.

Sometimes you can hear the air rush in when the valve opens upon pressing the pedal. There are felt disks (silencers) to quiet this and to act as a filter:

The cam lift is the difference between the long axis and short axis of the lobe profile. Negligible metal is removed from the nose (top) of the lobe when re-ground. Below are some drawings I made many years ago. They should make it a bit clearer. The geometry requires the lash pad to make up for the amount ground.

You read between the lines too much and analyze too much.... let your hair down and have some fun dude. It is just a car. My equation is just the opinion of one. Why do you care so much about my opinion? Kinda of weird creepy when you think about it?

Read the first post and my first post. In fact all my posts. They are on topic and funny too. Sorry I have an opinion on the price of that 432 selling in the USA. The Fear LadyBoy joke was just chain yanking like this sentence. I have the utmost respect for Kats and his work of art.

Your posts are very entertaining... too bad you don't share that hoard of data you sit on. They would be much more useful and less hurtful.

Here are photos: Here is where you can order: http://lupinusflower.ocnk.net/product/58

Look at S30 history. Most in NA region have seen them for years as a common car... 240, 260,280, fairlady, 432 whatever the name... it is a "Datsun Z Car" to the common folks. They were not that special to most people on this side of the pond. It is a Mustang/Corvette sports car world over here for the most part. However, where you are, they are very rare and relatively obscure to most. That and the fact most have to be imported to UK from Asia or NA increases the local cost and in turn value. Also in your region you have to factor in the high taxes and high price of things when normalized to a common currency. Here is a quick example. A new base Toyota beater is 25% more in UK when price normalized .....and comes with a smaller engine, the margins get even worse as you go up the line. Couple this with higher insurance costs and higher road taxes then you can see that prices are higher for things there than here. USA Canada Australia Great Britain Others 1970 16,215 1201 319 2 3 As Z owner in NA, I appreciate the various iterations and design changes from 1969 to 1978 however I find very little distinctions between the lot that is worth a $200,000 premium. Thus my agreement with the first post. I can also understand why the 432 is more expensive/of more value where you are due to foreign exchange, higher cost of living, and regional differences.

For regional differences, I guess you could go further and look at evolution. For the most part, current North American society evolved from many people leaving various parts of the world that offered very little for them in the form of opportunities or safety. They came here and started a new world with new ideas. You may not like what I said above but live here for a while and you will see what I mean. Most here will agree with the original first post.