240260280z

Some items to check: - low voltage Wires to the distributor and grounds to distributor - bullet connectors ~ 1' of wire into the harness downstream from the temp sensor - ignition unit in passenger kick panel over heating (transistors) - bad condenser/cap shorting Watch the tach when the car dies. If it drops to 0 then the problem is electrical. Also check for spark immediately after the car dies... no spark means elecrtical

Remember there are two typical Toyota caliper conversions: 1. Swap out the stock Sumitomo brand two piston caliper with a Sumitomo brand four piston caliper (S12-8 from Toyota 82-84 truck). 2. Use 88 Toyota calipers (S12-W from 88 toyota 4-runner truck) and 300zx vented rotors with spacers. The first is very easy and does not have significant clearance. The second requires more clearance

Oh yeah check for spark too when it dies. Sudden dying is often caused by heat and ignition circuits... even a capacitor can intermittently short when hot and kill the sparky stuff.

Compressed air blowing out the lines backwards from the engine compartment could be a preventative measure/grenade to throw at this. Maybe drain the tank too to see what comes out.

Good Luck Greg!

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Funnier way http://youtu.be/KI38RZ2f6Ls

http://youtu.be/5gzwHeBEJhI

what!!! This is not an airplane club???

Just got one too: Date: 26 Apr 2011 08:34:56 -0700 [04/26/2011 03:34:56 PM UTC] From: sammiefishers@yahoo.com To: Subject: A message about your ad on Datsun Classifieds Dot Com GTZ $14,000 in Maine Hello, I want to purchase your car is still for sale ? What is the final price and what is the condition of the car? I would like to pay using PayPal,After payments has been made i will arrange for pick up of the car as soon as possible..Reply to my personal email address below sammiefishers@yahoo.com. Thanks http://www.datsunclassifieds.com/showproduct.php?product=6100

Great use of force You can also use mass and lift and lower the car onto a breaker bar that has an end on the ground. For the archives I read of a fellow who used a scissor jack to bush out on the rear stub axles,

Thar is great news. You should be able to make full rotations with the plugs out and clutch disengaged. We will support you through the whole process of reviving your z... it will be E.Z.

btw I laugh that Honda makes their two aluminum 2 seaters at the same plant, NSX and Insight Fastest and slowest. I like the insight because of lightweight, low frontal area, and low coefficient of drag...., everything you need for efficiency.

I'll try to scan the plate on a scanner so you have something accurate.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_Specialty_Cars http://www.facebook.com/pages/ASC-300zx-Spyder/300729326454

I'll try to get photos when I go back to Canada. I have a disassembled motor in my basement. btw I like your other car. I always wanted an early insight

I'm getting my wife a purse with racing stripes and a number decal.

Lots here: http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&newwindow=1&q=240z+headlight+covers&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=isch&source=og&sa=N&tab=wi&biw=1280&bih=713

luv it!

You can try every day by hand with a breaker bar on the crank nut for a few pulls in the morning and evening. You can try an turn both directions. No need to waste battery on starter. You may get lucky and it will break loose.

Doing the same in a month. 71 datsun (905 Red) but 2.4 block and webers

It is still good to set up your carbs properly regardless of the other problem

Well maybe some paint or clear coat gets pulled but the yellow clay bar just looked a little dirty in my hand. If the bar was removing a lot of paint, I would expect to see more of it on the clay. I just used the Turtle Wax ICE wax. So easy to apply and buff. Looks nice. Final product is not much different than old fashion Carnauba wax I am used to doing but the new stuff is so much faster and easier. I'll try el cheapo claybars on my trucks in a few weeks when back in Canada and report back with results and photos

I am a slow typist btw the thermostats I tested creep open slowly. Watch the margin where the inner metal disk meets the outer disk.

I had a points distributor on an early Z that had a fuel bog/wall at high rpms/load. Symptoms seemed like fuel. I even rebuilt the carbs and swapped fuel pump to no avail. Swapped the points distributor with a spare and problem solved.