240260280z

You may also consider trying to source an N42 or N47 (from z/zx) locally if shipping is a problem. Just get 2mm shaved off the bottom and away you go 32cc chamber. Slap it on and move the timing chain 1 tooth closer to take up the change in height. 32cc N47 shaved 2mm (0.080") Ref. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/head/n47_2mm_shave/

Photos Edited For Speed

Formed and ran lines: - 1/4" fuel return - 5/16" fuel send - 3/16" fuel vapor Refurbished fuel line clips - wire brushed using drill - drilled out and tapped broken bolts - oshpho dip - paint Continued Rebuilding front hubs - Brembo rotors installed - Wheel bearing tension set and cotter pins installed - Tension/Compression rod ball and socket installed Removed over-spray on aluminum s/n plates Refurbished and installed brake pressure switch Refurbished Hand Brake assembly Picked up foil backed bubble wrap and adhesive for sound insulation and thermal insulation Whew... even more to do tomorrow. Lots of fun.

For your reference;I just saw this variation of two vertical pipes out back:

Glad to help! I was thinking that two glass packs (one where you show) and one where the muffler goes would be a nice system.

Hi Arne, It is a pleasure. The pipe just has one bend so I measured along the shortest side of the pipe (inside line of bend) from the outer flanges to the centre of the bend. The measurement includes the flange's thickness. The longer side of ther pipe to the bend (between arrows in your photo) is 23.5". The other section from the flange to the bend is 18". The flanges are 3/16" thick. I bet you are thinking "glass pack" So am I.

I can get it later today. Just waking up and my resto with that kit (still in box) is just 6km away.

polish like a valve cover

- Used a pre-made kit from ebay link and a 25' spool of 3/16" coated hard line from NAPA. - ebay kit was just unions and variety of off-the-shelf line sections in standard lengths but actually nice quality line. - did not want to use the unions so for the long run I used one piece of hard line and flared ends. - pre-made kit tube still needed to be cut and flared to optimize length. - used new U clips and flex line washer/stopper parts from Black Dragon - tried two double flare kits Autozone $30 was junk, I did ~20 practice and actual attempts but none were good. The tool had inherent manufacturing flaws. I was so disappointed that I designed a new tool. (TBA). I bought a 2nd flare tool from Princess Auto (Canada's Harbour Freight equivalent... not a shop in San Fransisco ). It worked great. bad kit: good kit: http://www.princessauto.com/workshop/hand-tools/trade-tools/electrical/2990245-double-flare-tool-kit - I drilled out and tapped all individual line clamp mounts in frame to larger M5 X 0.8 and replaced with stainless steel hardware and Napa rubber covered 1/4" brake line clamps/clips. - Cleaned undercoating and refreshed brass "T" and pressure regulator in rear of brake system. - Brake line bender from Eastwood worked fine. I found that Princess Auto now sells a similar but only 3/16" - Murphy's Law... can't find the pressure loss switch/junction that I bagged when I stripped the car... now begging from local car club friends here in NS Clubs are great!

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/dto_clubs.php

Maxima N47 head will work nicely.

you can pull the end of the wire from the plug and feel the sparks jump to the plug top as you pull it away a few mm. This works fine with bare hands and ngk and stock plug wires... bad wires or other brands may spark to your hand.

That is great news. Congrats. You should see the TVS/TPS switch kick in and the AFR change when it does. It basically adds fuel when idling for smooth idle and when approaching wide open throttle (WOT). You have to rotate the switch properly so that the idle contact breaks @ 1,400rpm. You can't adjust the WOT location without bending switch vanes (not recommended) Here is how to set it up: http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/tps/index.html In the table below you can see the fuel added by the TPS: - IDLE CONTACTS MAKE (Idle Increment) occurs from "Idle Switch On To Idle Switch Off" [800 rpm to 1400rpm] - IDLE CONTACT JUST BREAKS (After Idle Increment) occurs when passing 1400rpm - WOT CONTACT MAKE (Full Increment) Full switch on to Full Switch off [gas pedal ~ 2/3 way to the floor] The ECU also watches the rpms and goes into a coast mode when the foot is off the gas pedal and rpms are above 2800rpm. The ecu knows the foot is off the gas pedal by reading the tvs switch [idle contacts makes]. A common problem is that the idle contacts short when water gets in... usually after watering the car. This makes the ECU think the car is in coast mode all the time when the rpms rise above 2800. It is effectively a rev limiter. Another common problem is corroded connector contacts or corroded or fused switch contacts.

I just read a nice article in the article section on struts and shock absorbers. Some great input from John Coffey in it: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?3026-Tokico-Adjustable-Shocks-Advantages-Disadvantages What is your reason for adjustable ride height? - looks - street performance - track - other?

Not sure what "adjuster sleeves" are? Is this the coil over seats and threaded tube for modifying stock struts? For a stock Z, I would recommend the following for the job: 1. Bearing grease 2. Front strut top bearings 3. 240z strut insulators for lowering the car (if you have a 280z).. you may wish to 4. Thin after market shock piston bellows and fastening hardware (the kyb bellows do not fit right) 5. kyb or tokico struts and suitable springs. 6. rust inhibitor and cool paint 7. Poly bumpstops You may want to upgrade some of the control arm bushings when you are doing the job as well as refresh the brakes (pads, bleed, lube), and maybe repack the front wheel bearings.

Own 2 cars. One for restoration and one for driving and reference.

Use only when your car runs like crap.

This is a car forum... dude.

I used my innovative O2 on a couple of Z's (260z and 280z). I don't remember a problem. Did the ciggy fuse go out? Maybe clean the fuse and ciggy socket contacts as they could have corroded. For higher rpm performance I would recommend the ZX distributor swap. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/distributor/index.html I did it on two '77's and a 240z and the higher rpm's were smoother (All three z owners noticed the improvement). You may wish to move the AFM's internal tension wheel a few teeth to the rich or lean side and see if that helps higher rpms.

It got away

Toyota Carina Don't forget the Toyota MR-2 which means sh1t in French.. or the Pinto in Spain/Mexico

The voltage regulator is not regulating or the alternator has a fault and can not support the load. You can try cleaning the yellow sense wire contacts. It feeds back the battery voltage to the regulator and sets the target set point voltage. If the contacts are bad or loose then the feedback does not work. Try installing a ZX distributor with built-in regulator. Here is how to do it on a 77 280z:http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/alternatorswap/index.html