240260280z

Pull out the push rod from the brake booster and fish around the bottom of the can for the rubber reaction disc.

Glad to help! Those metal "carpet" plates seem to be the new trend so you will be with the in crowd

Looks like a fun project. I am in NJ often and will be there for the long weekend April 22-24. I could drive up and meet and go over the car with you. I am in Bridgewater when in NJ and have a 77 240z here in Canada

Just browsing old links on our club site and came across this gem http://pitstopusa.com/c-132110-tools-equipment-engine-tools.html

Interesting custom pedal shapes here: http://www.ultimatepedals.com/pedal.htm and here for Z's: http://www.ultimatepedals.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=41_42

I've seen some plastic mats and metal mats integrated into the carpet and floor mats in those areas. What about cutting out a patch of your glued-down carpet and replacing it with a rubber mat material that can be affixed with a silicone sealant for easy removal? Ot this sort of extreme solution: http://www.ioffer.com/i/car-floor-mat-aluminium-alloy-pedal-pad-nissan-nismo-153993143

Great news! Thanks!

Nice warm sunny day here so out in the driveway: Dremel and die grinder got friendly with Maxima N47. Had an E31 next to it to compare and test cutters, sanding, rolls and technique before committing. The N47 is a very nice head stock. It is very easy to see the squish area in comparison to E31 as well as the brass seats of the E31. Most of the N47 chamber was laid back nicely with only a few sharp edges to address. I just had to soften the edge of the squish area, the edge was caused by the skimming mill. I also had the machine shop cut back the exhaust valve guides to the roof so it should flow nicely. Cleaned up /blended the passages below the valve seat with dremel (head upside down)... especially on the short radius side of the intake. Used my finger to feel what was going on.... seemed like best technique. Used die grinder on the manifold side to clean up the casting. I may sand the intakes with a flapper wheel extended on a drill but it looks pretty good as is. Any last minute suggestions?

Thanks!

Thanks mine is 89mm circle.

I am converting a maxima EFI head to carb application. I wanted to fill the injector holes. I am thinking of using JB Weld like i had seen done by a bike racer who filled runners and reshaped to increase velocity. My only worry is the head expanding and the fill dropping out in the future. Any recommendations/suggestions/ experience? - to fill or not to fill that is just one question I figured that grinding some ruts in the hole area will help the JB weld grab.

I am just about to eyebrow the block and noticed my l24 HG has same ring diameter as my L28 HG's. Is this normal or just a lazy manufacturer who does "one size fits all"?

Great work! Here is the 77 280z wiring diagram in pdf coloured: http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/wiringdiagrams/F77ZCAR-WIRING1.pdf More wiring diagrams here: http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/electrical.htm

Wild Cat, Hell Cat, Bear Cat... pretty much the same line..except Bear Cat was somewhat copied more from FW 190A (another fav but the 190D trumps it).. BC was made during WWII but as you say it was late for the party... sort of like the Ta152 and He162(sort of)... Gloster meteor, P80 shooting star etc. can also be added. A lot of cool machinery was made in that brief moment of history...especially EFI beating Carbs (109E vs Hurricane and Spit). I think it is funny to own a Japanese car with German EFI (280z) when in 1943 it was unthinkable and maybe treasonous... time is the best cure and best army.

Info in cooling system here may help: http://datsunzgarage.com/rebuild/index.htm This got my attention: "the reason is that 3-row fan hubs were made longer to clear the long balancer." Not sure if you still have stock motor and parts or if you put L28 in your 73... but maybe you have same issue

I always liked the FW-190d in Europe and the F8F Bearcat in the Pacific. btw that is one Mustang you should never race and get in front of. Cool Pics!

In the interim, clean all of the electrical connections that you can reach in the dash area. The heating source is usually a connector/switch contact and the heat conducts through the wire. Some tips on cleaning here: http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/electricalconnections/index.html

Source: https://111kuroyanagi1.wordpress.com/category/mitsubishi/page/2/

if he is into z's I may know him...small world.

Thanks a million! esmit I be from Nova Scotia too Thanks ggarrad looks like 15 it will be.

Can anyone who regularly takes in the Montreal F1 recommend a prime area to view the race from? http://www.circuitgillesvilleneuve.ca/tickets-f1.html I'm about to buy tickets and would appreciate expert input

Hi Jeff, The first pic is a corner vent that had to be re-soldered due to a leak we found. It is located in rear left side of tank.

Found these on my HD and thought they would be good to share. They seem like the best photos of plugs I have seen and sure beat the drawings in most tech books. From left to right Oil Fouled, Lean, Normal, Rich

Team Zero won GT-2 past two years.