240260280z

I'll guess at fuel pick-up issue/clogging in tank.... from experience.

http://www.turnto10.com/story/29586671/police-identify-bicyclist-killed-on-bald-hill-road

If you see something in the news related to datsun's post here. http://www.winknews.com/2015/07/22/search-for-missing-woman-leads-to-renewed-interest-in-unsolved-case/

http://www.stuff.co.nz/manawatu-standard/71098222/targa-regional-rally-within-a-rally-to-start-in-palmerston-north http://www.automobilemag.com/features/lists/1508-18-coolest-cars-at-the-2015-rolex-monterey-motorsports-reunion/

Happy Birthday! Enjoy the link and 3 files http://www.thelolaregistry.com/DIY/Weber.htm Vol 01 Issue 3.pdf Vol 02 Issue 1.pdf CLF140.dgv_.pdf

Someone give this man side drafts

Dr.240z and I swapped in the new stronger springs in his triple 40DCOE set up. We were able to swap them with the carbs on the car (just removed the top carb plate). A small screw driver and long needle nose pliers were the only tools needed. It certainly closed the 3 throttle plates to the same location as repeated idle measurements were ~ 935 +/- 5 rpms. No increase in pedal pressure was noted. It did the trick!

Just did some tuning with DR240z. We settled on this: Engine: Block: L24 Head: Maxima N47 Cam: ~280 duration 0.48" lift Transmission and Differential: stock 4 speed 3.545 Carbs: 40DCOE151 (3) 30mm Choke Fuel Height: ~30mm down from top of body Idle Jet: 55F9 Enrichment Screws: 2.25 turns Emulsion Tube: F11 Air: 70 Main: 120 A/F Ratios: Idle: 13.5 60mph cruise on flat: 15.6 70mph cruise on flat: 14.5 WOT runs 12-13 After setting fuel level to 30mm down, we first tuned by selecting a jet for cruise at 60mph that was near stoich (~15:1) and could be dialed to slightly rich for a smooth idle(~13:1). The 55F11 did the trick. We then checked the effect of the main on cruise. The car had a 115 main when the fuel level was 25mm down. We tried a 125mm main with the fuel now at 30mm down but it dropped the 70mph cruise to 12.5 w/o doing much to the 60mph cruise. We settled on the 120mm. Tuning data: The car runs crisp with no bogging nor rich fuel smell. Nice even mocha coloured plugs to boot. No popping or backfiring under load, over run, or at any rpm. Success.

Had fun with my good buddy Dr240z refining the tuning of his triple webers. The last time we set them we used a fuel level of 25mm below the cover-body margin (as per Keith Frank's recommendation). It turns out this is way too high and caused the cruise to be too rich... something that could not be tuned out. Idle and WOT were easy to set however. This time we set the fuel level to 29mm and used a new rig to do this as precise but much faster than the pipette method or the caliper method. It turns out that a column of water 8' to 9' high "head" gives a pressure of 3.5 to 4 psi at the base (simulating that of the fuel pump on a Z.) so we strung a funnel and hose near the garage ceiling and ran this into a carb lid on the floor. The carb lid sat on a clear plastic tub with water levels from the top scratched into it for reference. the top of the tub represented the top of the carb body. By filling the system with water, it flowed through the needle valve at ~ 4psi. When the flow stopped, we measured the fuel level and bent the float tabs as required to get 29mm. Once all 3 carb lids were the same, we continued tuning and finally dialed in the carbs to a powerful yet non-stinking/non-fume delight at idle, cruise, and WOT. FYI: Gasoline would have been more accurate but water worked and was safer. FYI the S.G. of gas is ~0.70 so a float would sink lower in it. 9' Head 29mm fuel level The Doctor This post has been promoted to an article

Bigger front sway bar and poly end link kit.... like a shark finning on the surface.

Thanks! For some reason I thought there were 4 or 5 variations. Simply 2 is fantastic.

Starting the resto of my 72.... need to get a few missing parts.

Cliff, Wear eye protection. Those tools are a bit flakey. This combined with oily surfaces can send parts faster than you can blink. If you are using the C clamp and its starts to slip off, stop, loosen then recentre and begin again. Don't try to make a save. Have fun!

I wonder if we could round up 125 people to pop $2k as an investment and collectively own the car as an investment only. Bragging rights for the 125: "I own a 432". This message brought to you by the friendly Bank of Z

Every time you see a Mikuni say a little prayer for Todd and remember.

It looks like the CAS is secured by a nut on each side of the transmission plate? If so, maybe weld one nut to the inside of the transmission plate then screw the CAS into that and secure it with another nut and lock washer on the outside.

If the calipers, pads, rotors and lines are good then it would seem to be the proportioning valve/ switch component that splits the path from the master in two to the FL and FR brakes.

Thanks all!

A friend wants his Koni's rebuilt. are there shops that still do this? Thanks,

Donor does not seem to include the firewall.

Interesting find!

Nice stuff Charles! They look a little rich.

Grease can wipe marker from baggies over time. (I know). My next resto will use tags where possible as well as printed labels in each baggy..... plus many pictures. It would be good to give each bag a unique number that is referenced by the spreadsheet. Using a system of prefixes like E0001 for engine, FS0001 for front suspension.... etc would be good to follow from the start. Plan it.

Mighty Purdy Don't Mess With Texas (Double Barrel Trouble) SteveJ's Golden 260z

House of Rising Sun E's Dino Asphalt Robotman