240260280z

Yes, shorter are normal for sporty springs... they are stiffer and do not compress as much as the softer originals.

Not for a while Just focusing on a motor for the moment. It would be fun to tap a head to make an external cooling pipe arrangement like on the cross-flow heads.

Many other interesting items on the website too: http://www.trick-tools.com/Exhaust-Header-Design-and-Fabrication-Tools-863

The original Nissan schematics do not seem to show the connectors properly. For example, here is the tach: It has 4 bulbs (4 separate connections) and 1 connector (on a pig tail) that has the current loop (white wire above) and the +V (red & yellow) and Gnd (Black) for the tach circuity. The nissan drawing does not show the pigtail or connector details.

I checked the XL500 pistons but they have a challenging compression height that would need odd length rods.

Thanks again all! I think I found something: Piston pin is ~ 1.2mm bigger in diameter so rods will need boring or existing pin sleeved. The piston bore is 89mm. The compression height/pin height is 38.99mm Piston to Head clearance is ~0.32mm so it needs another .07mm off the pistons. It should have a good squish if I can find a 1mm X 89mm gasket.

It would be ~3.5" (89mm)bore and 1.5" (38.1mm) compression height that is needed.

I need to build a motor for Memphis and don't want to do the stoker yet. I have a few blocks that could be over bored. I recall some mention in the past about chevy pistons that work with over bores? Anyone know of possible solutions? Cast hypereutectic pistons are fine for this one.

It looks like the steel valve has sunken into the bronze seat already. You can see the ridge left by it. It would be good to change the intake seats.

Looks like you are off to a great start. It is rare to see such a fine shell!

looks great!

This will make you happy: http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/47234-af-monitoring-points-info/

Thanks Christopher! 3607 looks like if falls in the batch made in Jan 1970. L24-2747 Nov-69 L24-2837 Dec-69 L24 original Jan-70 L24-3284 Jan-70 L24 Jan-70 L24-3260 Jan-70 L24-3205 Jan-70 L24 Original Jan-70 L24 Jan-70 L24-3532 Jan-70 L24-3295 Jan-70 Unknown Jan-70 L24-2791 Jan-70 L24-3324 Jan-70 L24-original TBC Jan-70 L24-3939 Jan-70 Jan-70 L24-3833 Jan-70 L24 Original Jan-70 L24-3785 Jan-70 L24 Original Jan-70 L24-3959 Jan-70 L24-4008 Jan-70 L24-4056 Jan-70 L24-3731 Jan-70 L24-4030 Jan-70 L24 Jan-70 L24 Original Jan-70 L24 Original Jan-70 L24-4738 Feb-70 L24-4784 Feb-70 L24-3199 Jan-70 L24-2900 Jan-70 L28 Jan-70 L24-3429 Jan-70 L24-3493 Jan-70 L24 Original Jan-70 L24-3325 Jan-70 Jan-70 L24-4042 Jan-70 L24-4080 Jan-70 L24-3559 Jan-70 L24-4220 Jan-70 L24-4375 Feb-70 L24-5164 Mar-70 L28 Feb-70 L28 Feb-70 L24-4611 Feb-70 L24-5055 Feb-70 L24 Original Feb-70 L24-4820 Feb-70

Fred, do you know up to what s/n for hls-30's this was the case? Also would you know when did the crank design change? Thanks a million!

I think the sniffer in the pipe is the most flexible. As well it is where emissions tests are done. The tail pipe a/f follows the same values at the header in time. The only difference is that some dilution occurs and transients are smoothed out.

Ditto for Beermanpete!

http://www.fourwheeler.com/features/1504-1976-baja-500-international-winners-hourglass/

bty both modules work the same. If you use the extra connector on the turbo unit,, you get less advance when activating it. If you do not use it then no worries.

Yes you can swap them. Just two wires (red and green) to connect/disconnect. Note: The vacuum canisters may differ and give different amounts of advance but you can swap those too.

Hi Kats, There is a similar muffler on this page: http://motor.geocities.jp/atakausa/Details.html It says "original". And one here which you may recall: http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/29865-original-muffler-question/ And another: http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/44949-nice-survivor/ I hope it helps!

Explosions in the intake is no way to treat new webers on first cranking.

Yamaha developed early L engines for Nissan according to this: http://www.earlydatsun.com/nissana680x.html and this http://www.earlydatsun.com/nissan130mk1.html

You found the problem. It is the ignition unit. Here is how to upgrade as you rightly suggest. Www.Atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/distributor

Is that obidos in the first photo? I saw an orange 210 or similar at the base when visiting.

L28 basic knowledge is how to align mechanical timinig. Is rebello outsourcing to datsun llc? This is disgusting to hear.