240260280z

If they are all the same then you are balanced... aim for mocha brown colour

What is you plug heat range? Hot plugs and projected plugs will burn off more colour/deposits. Alcohol in gas also makes plugs look leaner.

thirteen and a half

A friend likes murdermat Murder Mat | Extreme Sound Deadener.

What do plugs look like?

Thanks...btw my wife thinks we are all geeks.

some useful twin su tips: you can compare plugs 2 and 5 for a quick front, rear carb functioning/ fuel mixtures Norm's Method you can compare load sharing of front and rear cab at idle by holding up the front carb piston (disables it) and causing the motor to chug-chug-chug-along on only the rear 3 cylinders. Repeat but hold the back carb piston up and run on the front 3 cylinders. Adjust fuel so that both run equally crappy repeat the 3 cylinder running at 3000 rpm as a check My Method (a variation of Norm's) For more precision repeat the front and rear carb disabling and monitor the a/f. Set the jets so that it is the same at 3000 rpm I think it will be ~26:1 to 29:1 on one carb at idle.

How do they do it? A big press then grind to a finish? I never saw this type of plier taken apart. I always wondered how they fasten the two sides as there is no apparent bushing nor fastener....just very tight tolerance parent metal fittings and brushed metal grain... a puzzle to me?

If you want to dig deeper there are heaps of ECU info here: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/fuel-injection-s30/44688-280z-fuel-injection-good-system.html

If the RPMS are over ~2800 and the idle contact touches the center contact then the ECU cuts fuel (this is normal behavior). From the description in post #29 paragraph 3 seems to indicate the fuel cuts off over 2800 rpm when the WOT contact connects to the center contact thus my supposition of reversed wiring. The fact that it does not happen with the TVS disconnected further points to the source. Comrades... a reference with chocolate hugs: http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/tps/index.html

Comrades, the election today was good....no? Chocolates for everyone!

Seems like the TVS wiring in the harness is reversed? The WOT pin on the TVS seems to be sending the Idle signal to the ECU by the behaviour?

With the key in the ON position, you should be able to hear the fuel pump by simply lifting the flap in the AFM. On 75's to 77 the AFM has a fuel pump cut-off switch that kills the pump when no air is flowing through the AFM. Lifting the flap simulates air. To hear the fuel pump you may need a friend to listen at the rear passenger area or you may also hear fuel flowing through the fuel rail.

maybe a wire to the oil pressure sensor switch (which kills the fuel pump) is loose or corroded.

What are the stories behind the three grenades above? Were the blocks rebuilt and rod bolts reused?

Here is what I did. I had to use anti-slip rubber as the floor mat would slip [ATTACH=CONFIG]71690[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]71691[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]71692[/ATTACH]

I am re-painting the bathroom this weekend and decided to use a car restoration trick on the el-cheapo "chrome" and "stainless" fixtures. They have some spot rusts and discolouration areas. I just used aluminum foil rub with some Mothers Chrome polish. The boss is impressed. Here are some pics from some web sites that show similar results. It even works on brushed "stainless" if you go with the grain. - beetle repair - cleaning hubcaps - Polishing up thread - surface rust and cleaning up with a polish method

I concur with Bart. btw I just resolved a 510 no-run problem where there was spark on cranking and none with the key on run so make sure you have 12V to the coil + with the key in start and in run.

1. SU's would be better for a daily driver. You will loose some low end torque. 2. SU's can handle everything, even turbos! No worries there 3. SU's first need to be tuned. Mods can follow depending on what you need: - piston at top limit at a particular rpm (spring and weight) - increasing piston top limit (shaving plunger tube metal and removing washer/stopper) - needle change to get fuel ratio set for power or mileage or compromise - piston rate change (oil) - air flow over bridge and under piston (metal shaping) - increasing air flow (boring) - reducing throttle valve obstruction (tapering profile) - increasing air flow (low profile elliptical bellmouth) - reducing heat transfer (exhaust heat shields and doubling up on insulators)

btw Mr. Matsuo has SU in his name

Wow that gauge seems high, is it a stock oil pressure sensor at the other end? Most gauges show only ~ 1/4 at idle and 1/2 to 3/4 at WOT.

The damper is simple and you only need to remember 3 things: 1. 30Wt for hot areas, 20Wt for cooler areas (from Mr Matsuo). 2. The oil just dampens the piston from bouncing when going over bumps and from engine vibrations. 3. The oil regulates how fast the piston rises and falls when transitioning throttle. If the oil is thick, the piston will rise slower and there will be more depression (vacuum/suction) at the bridge and it will pull more fuel from the jet. Think of it as a pseudo- acceleration enrichment circuit. It has the opposite effect on deceleration; with thicker oil it will fall slower and pull less fuel.

Keep them in suspense and talk in code. For whom the bell tolls? Maybe they will Sue yoU.