240260280z

Drill and tap to the next size up. It may be SAE that would be the next relative size up rather than a step up in metric to minimizing cutting out too much metal with the drill. Some one else here may have more insight on the anchoring metal it its ability to take the next metric size up. You might as well do both sides. Drill from below.

I miss your machine shop and your genius! Ever going to post a pic of that SU "round top" on steroids?

Now that i have re-read this old thread: WRT the AFM following load, it is spot on. The throttle valve controls how much air is desired and the AFM measures how much actually flows. It is similar to the piston in an SU and that is why SU's work when a car is out of tune.... they follow the actual air flow, not the throttle valve.

Is that a finger? Knew you guys would hit it off.... cut from the same mould. How many other guys slice carbs to see the "innerds". Did you talk about 6 Mikuni manifold concept?

Don't forget the ignition switch behind the key, it can wear out then cause frustrating problems when starting/running.

like

Fuel droplets make high speed 90 degree turns just like cars.... they don't.

I had forgotten when working with Rossiz on his Z..... we looked it up.

Geoffrey do you see what I see?

check for timing scatter and function by using a timing light and hand revving the engine from idle to 3500rpm. Weak springs in the distributor can cause ping and uneven idle.

Great photo! The front plate looks like it is from Japan "2177" so it must be very early. Hard to tell month of year from vegetation.

Good stuff. You know what you are doing...keep at it and you should have it in good running order soon.

Get a new set of jets and needles from Z Therapy. MASTER PRICE LIST AND ORDERING DETAILS

Again, I partially agree. I have had experiences where a blown fuse permitted me to inspect the load and correct a problem without any sparks or burning. The fuse protected the load in these cases.

Thanks for the update: Temp sensor checks out at the sensor. I assume the wiring from the sensor to the ECU is OK? Are the injectors green? The full part number should be A46-000001 for stockers. Getting a full set of injectors would give piece of mind however you can easily pick up a few used ones and flow all and clean some to get a relatively matched set.

Part of the casting process. I always thought it was coolant on the other side.

What are pn's on the injectors?

You should have worn the suit

280Z stock injectors are 188cc units Injector list: http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/injectors/injectors.pdf Water Temp Sensor Resistances vs. Temperature [TABLE=class: grid, width: 500, align: center] <tbody>[TR] [TD=align: center]C[/TD] [TD=align: center]F[/TD] [TD=align: center]Kohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=align: center]-30[/TD] [TD=align: center]-22 [/TD] [TD=align: center]20.0-33.0[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=align: center]-10[/TD] [TD=align: center]14[/TD] [TD=align: center]7.6-10.8[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=align: center]10[/TD] [TD=align: center]50[/TD] [TD=align: center]3.25-4.15[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=align: center]20[/TD] [TD=align: center]68[/TD] [TD=align: center]2.25-2.75[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=align: center]50[/TD] [TD=align: center]122[/TD] [TD=align: center]0.74-0.94[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=align: center]80[/TD] [TD=align: center]176[/TD] [TD=align: center]0.29-0.36[/TD] [/TR] </tbody>[/TABLE]

BTW great report and work/checks that you have done to get the car up and running! IMPORTANT. Be sure to clean the plugs with solvent and a wire brush once they are fouled or further attempts to resolve will be hindered by the fouled plugs. No need to buy new ones as once the air fuel gets close to nominal, the engine will clean up the plugs. Just ensure they are not carboned-up before trying something new. I like to put fouled plugs in a bowl then hit with carb cleaner spray and wire brush.

Data: Fouling plugs means you are running rich Vacuum leak experiment adds unmetered air. The improved performance with the extra air makes sense due to the rich condition... you are compensating for it. Fuel pressure seems in the ball park and FPR is working Questions: Are all plugs the same? This shows that spark and injectors are working relatively the same. Most probable problems causing richness: Water Temp sensor and wiring to ECU. Measure resistance at sensor and also back at the ECU. Check to ensure it is nominal for the water temp. (do this on a cold engine). Incorrect injectors. Check their published flow rate against part number. AFM spring too loose. Did anyone adjust it before (look for signs of entry). If the spring unwound by a previous butterfingers mechanic then it may still be too loose. ECU failure.

Did you try extending the push rod that protrudes out of the booster?

I partially agree. I was only thinking of radios, horns, and electric motors (starter, fan, blower, antenna, wipers). After further thought I think fuses are to protect in anomalous conditions where the nominal expected load is exceeded. This would prevent fires when something shorts downstream.. only 1 spark and no time to heat up. If fuses were to protect wires then wouldn't the values be much higher? I guess for the defroster this is true as it is wire but for most devices I think the fuse is sized for protecting an unforeseen condition where the nominal current drawn from the device or ganged devices (such as lights) is exceeded?

After a lot of thought, I think this is the essence: [*=1]Fusible links protect the wires in the harness. [*=1] Fuses protect devices that are connected to the harness.