240260280z

Steve, I do hereby dub thee "Prince Sparky of CZCC, and the Duke of Hazard Lights."

I know of two Nissan guys mentioned in this thread who also had Miata's.

Or do it the good old fashioned way with an EGT.... but monitor all 6 cylinders: Alcor Analyzer 6 Channel EGT with McCa L R Switch Assembly P N 46353 P N 80831 | eBay btw I always thought the best would be ECU, O2, EGT, injector and timing separated for for each individual cylinder...some day.

Buy two wide band sensors, one meter and one switch (sensor a/sensor .... you may have to power both heaters all the time.

I think first getting a dump from the ECU and comparing to a back up in the GUI application should be done before most new loads. Keep these as ECU restore states for backing out....keep the last 10 to 20 and date/time stamp them automatically. Having an "Are you sure?" is a good thing but make an option where it can be disabled. (this will help with fast changes for comparisons)... no one wants to wait for a computer in a car.

The intermediate unit is a "clicker" Try removing the clicker first and use your original to see if it speeds up (though much quieter)

I'm not sure if the bot that posts the spam checks replies to the thread or if they set up the CZCC account to email all replies to a bot email account....however it may be best not to respond so that they do not get confirmation that their thread nor email is working...sort of like submarines going silent when they hear a destroyer...silence is golden.

Here are great examples from the great EScanlon: Door Panel Chrome Trim - Classic Zcar Club Photo Gallery

Stephen, visit me and we'll do maintenance on a daily driver here Your thoughts will change..... we are masters of broken bolts and stuck nuts here due to corrosion.... .but you bring an excellent point...preventive maintenance like applying anti-seize is subjective to where you are driving, the frequency, and the climate.

The flasher in a 71 I restored is voltage dependent. There is an analogue device that heats up and breaks a connection using a bi-metal strip. When it cools it makes the contact again and does it over again. You can change the rate by cooling, or changing the distance the contacts travel, or varying the voltage, or varying the light bulb load. You can also buy a solid state flasher that does not use the slow bi-metal. Here is a description of the bi-metal one: HowStuffWorks "How Turn Signals Work" More info Turn sugnal Flasher Unit Ignition Timing After checking the ignition system L320 LED Taillight Mod - 320 - Ratsun Forums

interesting updates: dec 2 Nissan Restoration Club Safari Rally Z - Import Tuner Nissan Restoration Club Safari Rally Z Members Examine Undercarriage JPG Photo 5

I put antiseize just up to the first thread.

This guy machined his own cylinder head. The making of a cylinder head - THE H.A.M.B.

plug holes not even machined yet

240Z "Specialty" Tool Box

Congrats on the Z! They are easy to work on and great to look at. For controlling the applied torque from the engine, you can first try taking the slack/slop out of the linkage from the accelerator pedal to the carb as well as cleaning and lubricating the ball and socket joints. Others have found that modifying the linkage at the bell crank (the pivot linkage part on the fire wall) helps give the design more mechanical advantage. It was recently discovered by a great couple of contributing members here and by a company (Z Therapy) that that rebuilds carbs ; that a worn throttle valve plate and worn linkage can cause these problems. (A set of rebuilt carbs was sent from Texas to the Netherlands to do the test...great members here!) If you hear a clunk when accelerating, the problem may be the differential front mount. The rubber in the mount usually weakens over time. It is located just above where the drive (propeller shaft) meets the differential. Welcome to the site too. Just come here and ask questions, no matter how small or insignificant and all of us will be pleased to help you. btw SU is sort of slang many of us say for constant velocity carbs (they have a variable hole that opens proportionately to air flow passing through it). S U is the acronym for Skinners Union, the company that may be the first to mass-produce this type of carb with SU stamped/embossed on them. Nissan produced these under license with some improvements to the British design and one of the cars they were used in is the 240z/S30. Here are some sites that you may find helpful as well as the factory service manual(FSM): Datsun/Nissan 240z / 260z / 280z S30 Zcar Tech Tips Datsun Z Garage- ZCAR Performance Mods the Z Car Home Page Datsun 240Z/260Z/280Z Parts Manual Tech Pubs and HowTo 72 FSM (74 Megs) http://www.xenons30.com/files/FSM/1972%20240z%20FSM.zip S30 L24 Engine Manual (10Megs) http://www.xenons30.com/files/FSM%20L20aL24engine.pdf 71 chassis Supplement Manual http://www.xenons30.com/files/1971%20FSM%20Supplement.pdf

It may have an indent on the inside top edge rather than a triangle on the flat

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KznQNCHhuzE http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=slYcqR08HIw http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZU2H7LESZzM http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=abBQZYdEw2Y

If it was Sydney Nova Scotia, Canada I could help but your are on the opposite side of Earth.

Great photos! Great tech tip! Wow it is interesting to see the reversion of the exhaust soot into the or on the left tail light? It looks darker inside and outside?

240Z Strut Replacement 240Z Rear Strut Replacement How to Replace Struts on a Datsun 240Z | eHow Here is the 77 280z FSM. It has great step-by-step procedures: http://hammondsplains.com/fsm/77fsm.zip

"It's getting better all the time" put a big smile on my face...well thought out and great heap o' pics.

Carl you just killed any credibility that article had

Those are 50DCO's, pretty big... for lots of power; but the head is the interesting part.