240260280z

Yup... I like what you are doing but $500 for the stubbies from Wolf Creek is the hardest part of the upgrade in my opinion. There may be a less expensive solution. The Yoke solution arose from your trouble getting those short faced D cut bolts. A Yoke with 27 splined shaft would be a nice keystone. That chev or a similar yoke may be all that is needed with some machining...if lucky.... keep going....sidebar or not

The chain is connected to the crank as well so it will couple noise from both the crank and the cam but most noise will be from the chain scrapping along the chain guides. The cam sprocket is bigger so it will turn slower than the crank sprocket....1/2 the speed as you said.

Some foam and glue and a craft mood will get you these: btw how do those 45mm horns mate to the SK's opening. Is there a step?

[h=3]SD33T[/h]The SD33 is a turbo-charged 3.2 L (3,245 cc or 198.0 cu in) straight-six diesel engine that was used in 1980 for the powerplant in 6,400 International Harvester Scout II's. All were equipped with a T-19 manual transmission. From July 1983 until 1987, SD33T engines were fitted to the Nissan Patrol MK (160 series - model 2). The SD33T produces 107 PS (105 hp/78 kW) and 175 lb/ft (237 nm) of torque and is considered to be a fuel efficient and reliable diesel engine. [h=2][/h] Non Turbo: [h=3]SD33[/h]The SD33 is a 3.2 L (3,245 cc or 198.0 cu in) straight-six diesel engine, most known for its use in the Nissan Patrol MQ (160 series) from 1980-1983[4] and the Nissan C80. The SD33 produces 82 PS (60 kW) at 3,800 rpm. The Engine was also used in the UD 3400 series light truck, large forklifts, Marine applications, in International Scout offerings from 1976 to 1979, as well as the Jeep CJ-10/Cj-10A flightline tow vehicles from 1985 to 1986. The Scout-based MonteverdiSahara was also offered with the SD33.[5]

I hear you but I don't want to miss the 2+2 boat (if there is a boat).

On collecting cars for future value.... The least produced model and year seems to be the 260z 2+2. Is this worth collecting based on rarity or are the 2+2's uglier and less sporty features the main factors that will outweigh any collectible value.

Those 73 bumpers interfere with the exhaust outlet.

Timing chain can make a noise up front

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There may be less expensive products used to seal rain gutters on the edges of roofs or roofing sealant for flashing.

yes but it is the underlying concept of the adapter that can be adapted. Model does not matter. Beats drilling out firewalls.

For the 27 spline yoke idea, maybe a chev part could be used as a blank to machine?

No, not quite that. I am wondering if there is a Subaru 27 spine with yokes.

Here is how I reassembled: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/tech-pubs-howto/43176-su-reassembly-step-step-%5Bpart-1-tear-down-torn-n-tattered-worse-wear-n-tear%5D.html#post371937

Yup here are the puppies:

Hmmm I think I have an R180 with yokes coming out the side rather than the flat flange with 4 studs. If there are 27 spline and 25 spline versions of this it would make adapting a lot easier.... just change the U joint to join.

Yup, I saw this on Dr240z's Z when working on the clock. It kept perfect time on a 12V power supply on my bench for 2 weeks once calibrated but after putting in the car with 13.5V alternator, I had to re-calibrate. It must be some relativistic effect due to the high speed of the car and time dilation btw The Cesium clock was just too big for the dash.

Maybe not:

it is tapered.

The business practices, lack of ethics, lack of law,disregard for human life coupled with communism and a gangster govt. are disrupting the world economy and safety. It is not something anyone should support. Everyone should buy US or buy Canadian when they can.... just saying; Chinese labor camp inmate tells of true horror of Halloween 'SOS' - CNN.com

Some buy low cost LSD's with the internals installed backwards and accept it. Strange world.

Typical mainland China quality. Try a metal cv joint fastening band... you need to buy a tool.

Nitric acid... but it is explosive and a controlled substance due to this. found this on the net: Let me try and dissuade you from this idea. I presume that what you want to do is dunk the entire carburettor in an acid bath and wait for the brass do dissolve. Both sulphuric and hydrochloric acids chew aluminium as well as brass, so the only candidate is nitric acid, which dissolves the brass but puts a layer of oxidation down on the aluminium surface which prevents further aggression. Nitric acid is nasty stuff to handle, and I suspect you would also have to polish off the oxide layer for the best airflow.

Here is the page with the cam: …ãŽ©“®ŽÔH‹ÆFmizukami-auto@ƒp[ƒc”Ì”„E”ƒŽæ@`S30ZAKGC10AAE86‚Ȃǂ̃IƒŠƒWƒiƒ‹ƒp[ƒcA‘¼ Here is another with big shim: L28‰ü@3.1‚k@‚r‚o‚kƒGƒ“ƒWƒ“”Ì”„@ƒeƒB[ƒoƒŒ[