MC75Z

I've taken the 4 speed out of my 77 and am putting in a 5 speed. I am also replacing the clutch. When I took out the throwout bearing I put it in my parts box not paying attention. Now as I look to get I have 2 in the box 1 with a short shank and 1 with a long shank. Which do I use?

How do you know whether to use a short shank or long shank other than matching what you are replacing.

I got diagrams from the guy on ebay about 2 weeks ago for my 77. there were 2 11x17 sheets with one having diagrams on 2 sides and one with a diagram on one side. I took it to a copy place and had color copies made of all three. I was then able to put them together and have one complete diagram. It's nice easy to read and I plan on getting one for my 73,74 and 75 also. They originate from Prospero"s Garage Production dj@colorwiringdiagram.com or see www.colorwiringdiagram.com.

I just got mine from the guy on ebay about 2 weeks ago. It's for a 77 and is 3 11x17 pages. One sheet has page 1 on one side and page 2 on the other side. Page 3 is on a sheet by its self. I took it to a copy place and had the pages copied on single sheets so I could put them together and have one complete diagram which worked very well. It's much easier to read than whats in the books. The originals are a Prospero's Garage Production. You can contact them at dj@colorwiringdiagram.com or see www.colorwiringdiagram.com. I like it and plan on getting one for my 73,74 and 75 also.

I can't get a charge to the battery in my 77 280. I have a new battery, altenator and regulator. With the motor running I put a voltmeter ( Fluke series 3 multimeter ) and get no reading. I have taken it to the parts store and have had it tested in the car several times with it showing no charge going to the battery. I took it home did the A to F test with the voltmeter and got nothing. I took it out went to the parts store and it bench tested good. At this time I got a new battery and put them back in the car. Still no charge to the battery. Put a new regulator in still no charge to the battery. Did a continuity test on the WR conection from the alt. to the WR conection at the regulator. Did the same with the WR conection from the regulator to the + on the battery. Both showed continuity. In my 75 factory service manual it says to test the N terminal from the alt to the N terminal at the regulator for continuity but didn't clearly say to do so with them hooked up or not. It said if there was continuity there was a problem in the system but didn't say where to start. I checked the N terminal wire with it being unhooked at both ends and there was continuity. Also when I have the motor running the red light on the voltmeter is always on the needle never goes positive but does go negative when the motor is started and more when the lights are turned on. Any ideas where to go from here?

I thought there was but couldn't find them again

I have a 73,74,75, and a 77. My major problem with all of them is electrical. I have taken the diagrams and have had copies made and enlarged to about 3'x4' prints. Even with these there is so much I can't figure out I have to try and wire around the problem which sometimes works. My 77 has a good alt. and regulator but the charge thier putting out isn't going anywhere. The engin compartment flume had been replaced before I got it and put back together without a shunt or fusible links. There are just large gauge white wires connected to large gauge W/R wires. The relay bracket on the fender has nothing more than the regulator. The leads that should be going to the missing relays are capped off. My question is does anyone know where to get easy to read diagrams and easy to understand information for someone like myself who isn't electrically inclined. Thanks, MC75Z My e-mail is terimdc@yahoo.com.

I have acquired a few different types of heads and would like to know what motors they are off of, which are considered better and which work best on my cars. I have 4 all with L28 motors. A 73 with flat top pistons, SU's on a N42 with a header system. A 74 with flat top pistons, SU's on a N42 with a header system. A 75 with flat top pistons, fuel injection on what I feel was a poorly ported and polished N42 (could never get rid of the ping) balanced motor, lightened flywheel and a header system. A 77 assume stock pistons, fuel injection on a round port exhaust head with stock header. I have 2 E31 heads, 2 P90 heads and 3 N42 heads beside whats on the motors now. I was told that the P90 was the best out of the box by Nissan. Would like any info anyone has to offer. Thank-you, MC75Z.

Thanks ZCARNUT and sblake01 for the info on the injector wires. MC75Z

The injector wires on my 77 are unhooked and unmarked. How do I know which go where other than guessing.

Beandip, After seeing in the daylight it is a P90. How does this compare to an N42 or E88. I would be using it on a L28 with fuel injection or SU's. I have a 73 and 74 with L28's and SU's, also have a 75 and 77 with L28's and fuel injection. Would be using this as a back-up head. Thanks, MC75Z

PirOSan, It has an overhead cam would'nt know where to look for lifters.

I just got a head stamped P80 but looking from different angles could be P30 or P70. Anybody know which it is and if it is a good head.

Thanks for the info.mation. Is there anyway to check the injectors before installing. I have also heard of sending them in to get cleaned, whats this about.

I have been told that fuel injectors are color coded for fuel imput or lets say rich or lean. None of my books 75 service manual, Chiltons or Haynes say anything about this. I have just gotten 77 with a N47 head that has a mixture of green,white/ivory and black injectors. My 75 has a N42 head with white/ivory injectors. My 76 has a N42 head with black injectors. I have a set of white/ivory and black injectors. Anyone have any suggestions on what I should put in my 77 with the N47 head

I just got a '77 280 Z. At the time of purchase it was only running on #2 & #3 cylinders. After I got it home and and started it again I pulled the wires from the other plugs and it ran the same. On #2 and #3 I changed the plug wires and still the same. Next I took a good distributor out of another one of my Z's and still ran the same. I pulled the coil wire from the cap and held it to the frame and it had a strong consistant spark. I am using a D6F4-03 distributor which was in my '75 280 and the one out of the new car is the same. Right now as the battery is being charged I am going to change the transistor ignition unit. Does anyone have any other ideas? If you would like to e-mail me: terimdc@yahoo.com

about 4 months ago my 75 280 started to die occasionally. the first time it was on the freeway and it just suddenly died. as i coasted over to the right i put it in nuetral and it started right up. this continued on occasionally on or off the freeway. it always started right up. sometimes on the freeway if left in gear it would it would start on its own it seemed like it was out of gas but would happen immediatly with no sputering. it dies all of the time now . i have run a hot wire from the bat to the coil. but didn't help. i tried a different trans unit. not hearing the fuel pump operate every time when turned to on i unhooked the line before the filter and nothing came out when turned over. with the line hooked back up it started after about 20 seconds of cranking. any ideas. mc75z

All 3 have the "E30" on them but the one with the green stripe has "E30" and a "B" on the opposite side before the stamping of Japan. The 2 red are the same but has an "H" & an "A". Do you know the differences?

i am putting a head together to replace the one that has gone bad on my l28. the e88 on it has a bad valve in #6. the motor has flat top pistons and su's on it. i am putting a n42 on it which i have polished the intake and exhaust ports. the e88 has a cam with green paint between the intake and exhaust lobes and the n42 has red paint. what is the difference and which would be better for what i have going. mc75z

Thanx for the reply. Now do you know anything about the 2nd part of my post? The part about the intakes?

I did get my facts straight. If you have the chance to check out the "Z Car Magazine- March/April 1995" edition there is an article titled "Herve Ouellette's High-Tech 240Z" in it. There it tells about a rare N33 head that was modified for larger valves & counter-bored to accommodate larger pistons. Thanx for replying.

This is the first time I have polished a head. Would be interested in any general information on procedures. Was told by one person that it is better not to polish to a high sheen but to leave a slight roughness to it to help the gas & air mix. Also would like to know the value of the water circulation through the intake manifold. Was told by someone that the only reason it was there was for the emission control system. The car now is smog exempt so could it be bypassed or is it still needed? Contact me at: terimdc@yahoo.com Michael Cornish El Cajon, Calif. 1973 240 Z Series 4 Coupe 1974 260 Z Coupe 1975 280 Z Coupe "Drive Fast- Take Chances"

I would like to find out any info on them if possible.

I live in San Diego, Calif. I myself own 3 Z's- 1973 240 Z Series 4 Coupe- just purchased her for $500.00. 1974 260 Z Coupe 1975 280 Z Coupe If you do purchase this car be careful and make sure you check out everything. The car is old and myself I have found things that were worn out just from time. Every Z I have owned or known of has had wiring problems & the front brakes tend to make the cars do a nose dive. Just a couple of points to be aware of. I really enjoy everyone of mine and they can be expensive but well worth the time and money. I personally do all of the mechanics myself so I do know some about these cars but don't admit to it. ! Like I said "Good Luck" & have fun if you do decide to get her! Michael Cornish El Cajon, Calif. '73 240 Series 4 Z Coupe '74 260 Z Coupe '75 280 Z Coupe