Hallowed

Having personally seen a few cars running ZT SU's (including Steve's white 240), and the carbs themselves in various states of assembly, I can vouch for their effect and overall improvement on stock SU's. Lots of little details are taken into account, for example on those I've seen even the throttle butterfly screws are flush to improve CFM. Probably not noticeable by more than a dyno or an all-race engine, but nice to know its there. Perhaps someday I can afford a set.

I've seen one done before, and could show a pic. I wont, however, since the car was modified so poorly it would almost make you violently ill.

I have the 2001 vid, where theyre racing. 1001 is the installation / trial. Or do you have both?

I have it saved. Unfortunately, l dont have enough online storage to upload it, and not enough bandwidth to sustain it. That said, if someone does, allow me to upload it so all can view it once more. It is one hell of a mean sounding 510. :devious:

I think the glaring issue with the 350Z is a lack of uniqueness. Its quite heavy (like most cars out today), shaped like an Audi TT, shares a platform with quite a few vehicles, has an average engine layout (what doesn't have a V6?), understeers, has cup holders, etc... The mystique about classic sports cars is the compromises one must make to drive it. The appeal is the sheer exhiliration of driving it. A S30 does not feature power steering, has no ABS, traction control, airbags, or other electronic nannies telling you how to drive. In modern sports cars it always seems you feel isolated from the road, and the car itself determines when things are out of hand. It drives you, rather than you driving it. The early Z's had nothing to do with that. Just you, the car, and the road. And the sweet, sweet sound of a carbureted inline-six. And it is that purity which will always have myself preferring the classic Z to its newer counterpart.

Ok, problem solved... though not sure how. Friend and I were looking at the distributor, then realized I was missing the wrenches necessary to work on it (its a bastard moving from domestic to classic import). Figured we'd clean it out tomorrow. Put the cap back on and closed the hood. On the drive home, car ran stronger than ever before. Revved clean to 7K. Took her to 145 to make certain it wouldn't fail under load. I'm not sure how the process of removing and reattaching a distributor cap can fix a problem, but I'm not complaining. Wanted to thank you all for your suggestions though.

Well, Steve Epperly (of ZTherapy) recommended I do as such, and like I said, I tried to get detonation by other means, but I never hear knocking or pinging. First order of business is checking fuel pressure, then I'm going to dig into the distro and clean it out (weights and all).

Fuel pressure... I'll check into that.

Ok, yell if you've experienced this yourself: Whenever the engine is under extreme load in upper RPM, it begins to cough and stumble. Power literally drops as if falling off a cliff. It began shortly after I tuned my SU's and advanced the ignition from 10 init 32 adv. to 13 init 36 adv. I don't believe its the carbs, as the car is running stronger than ever before (until X rpm, as stated below). I tested for detonation by putting the car in 3rd, and pulling as hard as possible up a hill from 1800 RPM. No pinging or knocking. Just a complete lack of power at roughly 5500+ in 2nd, 4600 in 3rd, 4200 in 4th and 3500 in 5th.

Bambikiller: Later on I can _briefly_ host that vid if you like. Comcast just upped their caps. @eric: If that was directed to me, I have already previously viewed the .pdf

I know what you mean Gav. I think my problem is the addiction for Vintage modified... having a timeless engine designed in yesteryear and watching it compete competently against newer motors. Its a hard pill to swallow, knowing you have a better chance of being struck by lightning than to acquire a crossflow Z head. As an aside, I'd love to see what a naturally aspirated RB26 could do.

*resurrection* Ben, Since you didn't want to make guesses, Here is a page dedicated to Akamatsu's LY-powered 260Z. Power figures: 300HP / 232 lb/ft, 11.7:1 compression. The results seem to go along with the obvious performance of it chasing down the OS Giken Bluebird. *edit* Apparently it is a hand-copied page from SportCompactCar.

Re: bandwidth. I linked the vids to TREMEK which gets thousands of views daily. This may have caused it.

I'll keep in mind that the comparison also takes into account induction (carbs vs. injection) and about 32 years of engine technology. Mass produced... perhaps, though the F430 has it conquered in any effciency rating and much lower peak torque RPM. Costs probably play a role, certainly, but that wasn't mentioned above. *edit* Having reveiwed the .pdf, the MA2 has 10.2:1 compression. That is perfectly attainable without 100 octane fuel.

Ben, I didn't mean to imply it was an L24 with an LY-Head, though I am unsure of which exact S30 that the Works team blessed with their motors. I am just beginning to delve into Datsun history. :classic: Is that a Z432? Or was that the S-motor car? Also, the OSGiken site (after I babelfished it) gave a bit of history on their L4 monster and at the end specified its power (232 HP @ 8500, 150 lb/ft @ 6800, 1.9L), meaning it, in the 70's, was making far more power per displacement than a F20C, all the while requiring much less RPM to do so. That said, could you give a power estimate on their L6 engine? I realize the answer would torture me, knowing I'd have to rob a bank in order to purchase one (assuming I found one for sale). Perhaps with the sudden interest of their MAII making the show circuits, OSG could be tempted for a small production run of their fantastic engines. -Phill

Thought you guys would appreciate this, hopefully not a repost. http://www.osgiken.co.jp/video2001.wmv 230HP / 150 lb.ft from a naturally aspirated 1.8L L-series... wow.

Hi. Lately my car feels like its "stuttering" when I disable the choke. This is irregardless of water temp, just feels like the power cuts in and out. Tiny bit of choke and the power is back, but if the watertemp is normal, the car gets a funky, sputtering idle. Anyone familiar with this problem? -Phil

Great link, thanks Tomahawk. -Phil

Thanks Ben. So which custom / H.O cyl heads are available for a L28? The current head on my Z has been ported and flowed, but I've never figured the stock head to have decent flow characteristics. Very interesting read on the LY-powered Z. What is the P90 being discussed? Another high-perf cyl head? *edit* It seems the P90 is for the Turbo L28? How does it perform in comparison to the stock cyl head?

Didn't provide one. I'm just wondering where I could find more info / purchase the head.

How much and where to get one?

Hi Bruce. Do you or Bill or Steve know of anyone in Salem who can rebuild a 280Z 5-speed to take some abuse? I'm losing my synchro in 3rd to the point where double-clutching is the only way to stop the grinding. Thanks, Phill p.s. Hows the wagon?