jackboxxx

You know, I bought my first Z in the 1980's while in my 20's, for $700 from a Dr. in Whittier CA, the car was probably 15 years old at the time, a good looking & running driver in green, but a bit aged of course, and it was quite common and i'm sure it still is, when your young and poor, to hit the self service junk yards for what you need on the weekends , and that being said, I recall going quite often and having a "list" of things I needed in my head but when you got to pick a part, and started walking around you might very well find a "new" Z in the lot with almost everything still on it and start "drooling" over what you could and did get. I might be going in for this or that but remember hey! my seat belt was frayed, and grab some new ones off the new Z in the yard...even though I was just looking for a grill or whatever that day...THIS might just be the case in Zspert's car...

Was just cruising the Datsun Classifieds on Facebook and came across this guy who has 9 Z's for sale in Nevada. Might be worth taking a look if your in the market. the listing is 9 hours old. https://www.facebook.com/groups/464479646940228/user/100079971070123/ https://www.facebook.com/commerce/listing/1219698785231132/?media_id=3&ref=share_attachment

Sorry, I was looking thru Datsun classifieds on facebook a little earlyer today ago, and still had the page open, so I used as that Z as an example I think it sold 3 days ago..

Sigh this makes me just shake my head...especially when there are quite a few Z's out there for less and in much better shape.. ( for example https://www.facebook.com/commerce/listing/1304060936670698/?media_id=0&ref=share_attachment this poor girl has been abused for years

Now this is an interesting one..With the way Z's are selling right now, a EARLY series one like this will be very sought after. I'd expect quite a few "flippers" are rubbing their hands together hoping they can steal this for as little as possible and make some $$ so expect a bit of a bid ware in umm about 19 hours. Personally, I wish I could afford to bid on this...looks like a fairly clean project to work on. Ive always want a 1st gen early Z..I had a early 71 with alot of the 70 features and really miss it 😞. This will go for probably go for over 20k with the way things have been selling on Bring a Trailer lately.

I'll take a shot of it when I get home, im sure its not where it should be at11:30. My guess is itll be around 8 or 9 oclock. but note I did install it at the 11:30 position but without regard for where TDC was. ill get back to you in a couple hours with the pic. Thanks

Ive been in the middle of an engine upgrade for my 72 240Z from the 2.4 to a 2.8. I traded the engine for some other work a friends car he freshly rebuilt this 2.8 engine drove it a few hundred miles then decided to go v8 in his Z. I have driven his Z with this 2.8 motor it ran great, smooth clean running engine. anyways fast forward to me installing the motor, which was given to me as a long block basically, I transfered my SU carbs, basic electrical, alternator, regulator coil etc..new exhaust, and other minor things that needed replacing rather than transfering like hoses, cooling items and such. SO...heres where the problem starts: I had to transfer the oem 1972 distributor assy which worked fine in the old motor standard single point setup. I should have thought ahead and checked the engine for top dead center 1st but I did not. I just lined up the distributor and popped it in. everything else is connected I have fuel and spark but..it wont fire at all. so I read a bit and my understanding is the engine needs to be at top dead center when installing the distributor? so..I pull the distributor, I hand crank the engine around till #1 piston is at rest and valves are closed...the rockers are loose and the timing mark is at zero at the crank mark. then I marked the distributor below the cap at the #1 mark and took the cap off expecting the rotor to be pointing to the #1 mark I made...but its not. Its like 90 degrees off...I added some pics below to show how I lined it all up but its like im missing something..to get everything in sync so it will fire up. right now it just cranks. Ive checked fuel delivery Ive tried starting fluid just in case...nothing. checked spark at coil wire and spark plugs its sparking. ive adjusted the distributor in several positions and usually you can get an L series to at least cough and sputter or run badly at some point..but nothing. Its the rotor not lining up thats is really bothering me..should be at #1 ( i think ) anyone have any ideas???

Ok since i just went thru a similar issue i can tell you if it only shifts when off (when your flywheel isnt spinning) then your collar/ sleeve is too short...its not reaching the pressure plate to disengage the clutch to allow you to shift freely. There are several lengths of collars...it looks like you have the shorter 240z collar which works with the 4 speed and adjustable slave cyl. But you have a late model ZX 5 speed...so you need a longer collar to reach your pressure plate. Look at what the previous ower had in my Z . the correct metal collar is on the left..the incorrect plastic one was what i found in my car when it melted... Sent from my LGMS210 using Classic Zcar Club mobile

I agree with you there...the day my clutch went out, I got stuck on a 25 mountain mile road detour due to a fire... spent 2.5 hours in stop and go traffic getting thru that to make it home. the last 7 miles with no clutch...(couldnt shift when I came to a stop) so I didnt stop...had to umm take some liberties with a couple stop signs and red lights... everything was going great until I got to the last light across a busy hwy and was forced to stop...1 mile from home. had to tow it the last mile. I now have the new bearing and sleeve and plan to install the nice METAL parts this weekend after I check fit and measure everything...ill let you know how it goes.

Well...the problem is..whoever had this car prior to me has done a little creative work to it..they used an odd PLASTIC sleeve part# 30501-a6801 its all melted as you can see in the pictures, but is short like a 240Z 4speed sleeve would be..( see the pic where I have a 280zx sleeve next to it. ) Now I need to figure which pressure plate I have, so I can get the correct length sleeve for it...( I would think the 280zx sleeve I already have would be way too long...) Do I just need to pull the pressure plate to size things up?

Thanks looks like I have the older wide ratio...nice file to have

yes, the top one the the 4 speed out of my car, It had to be dropped due the the throwout bearing/clutch sleeve imploding... When you say completely swap-able , from what ive heard, you have to change out the clutch, pressure plate, bearing and sleeve?? or can I just bolt it up? The front half of this 5 speed looks so exact..but motorsport auto said I have to swap it all out. Thanks for your help, Im going to delete the newer thread.

The front half of the Transmissions look identical but the one in the left appears to be a 5-speed the length is the same everything looks the same as far as mounting in the car I just want to know if there's any problems I need to be aware of when putting this in the car Sent from my LGMS210 using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Is there a post that might guide me to identify the transmission I I bought at a junkyard long ago I can only see one set of numbers written into the body of the transmission it says two 10 28 at the back of the transmission below the shifting area any help would be appreciated maybe there is a different set of numbers I should be looking for or identifying marks? Sent from my LGMS210 using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Just thought I would let everyone know who is still having "hard to close" door issues, that I gave the "glued" rubber method a shot last sunday when I was pulling my hair out trying to adjust my latches and not having any luck. Works like a charm! I happened to have a small section of 1/4 inch fuel line laying on the garage floor while searching the forums Sunday for a fix for the latch, and thought what the hell, lets try using a small section of this fuel line....couldnt hurt to try it right? I grabbed my wire cutter , eyeballed the size I needed...about 3/16 ish, sniped off a piece of the fuel line, then cut it so I could slide it over the lobe of the latch and presto! the door closes so easy now!! so give it a try if you have the problem....

Never really took a look at one of those, now that I have, it seems to look a lot like the heat sink / cooling fan for my CPU

Took a early morning drive to work today...the back way...

Well if it was me, and I was building my motor next year, I'd take the next step and go with a performance clutch/flywheel setup...so you can take full advantage of your new 200HP+ motor On my last build I went with a Centerforce 2 clutch and a lightened flywheel from motorsport auto. the flywheel has been in service for 2 Zcars and almost 20 years now. ( with 1 resurfacing between cars..and a fresh clutch setup ) and its still burning up the roads in switzerland..

Ignore previous post....DO IT!

They have a pic up on IMCDb now..here is the Z....

Just a quick "thanks" to the contributors in this thread, it got me through a spacing issue with my new struts this weekend

As someone who has "drank" the Rebello kool-aid (and its really GOOD kool-aid ) I would not hesitate to upgrade your clutch and flywheel, pickup a lightened flywheel and centerforce clutch ( I went with the centerforce II ) and it will not disappoint you. I think the biggest problem you are going to have is wiping the "sh*t eating grin" off your face the first time you take her out for a spin. note on the fuel pump, since you are keeping the SU's, remebmber they are low pressure carbs.. you dont need a ton of fuel flow to keep them full..I went with the "big bore" SU upgrade from Dave Rebello myself and never had an issue.

Best I can do is my 3rd Z car...circa early 1990's this pic with my son, who is now 27 years old and taller than me I tried hard to get him into Z's but....he is a cough cough honda guy...sigh...

Being a body and paint guy by trade, I would pass...on this Z. You have a serious can of worms here...usually rust is TWICE as bad as it looks or more..if it has lived its whole life in British Columbia im sure under that repaint you will find LOTS more rust to deal with..I can see a lot behind the paint in the few pics you posted. If it were me, take the thousand or two you are going to have to spend on sheet metal, tools, body materials, and labor ( yours ) and find yourself a decent $3000-4000 Z that looks less rusted..they are out there.. Try a website called "search tempest" it can do a wide range search of all craigslist within your specified range. I did a quick search..and found this one within a few hundred miles of you.. just for an example.. 1972 240 z Pretty hard to believe it only has 34k miles on it...I would be skeptical right off the bat...

These pics should help clarify the difference between "round tops" and flat tops" for you. ROUND TOP CARBS FLAT TOP CARBS See the difference? should be easy to spot