jackboxxx

Sorry about that guys, its been kinda hectic lately. anyways, theres the simple diagram just 4 wires...and a diode. any local radio shack or electronic store should have the parts, or even the local stereo / alarm shop...for just a couple bucks...all you need is a 1 amp diode but a bigger one wont hurt. try to get a bosch or potter brand. relay wiring diagram diode relay

last set ever? uh oh...

<--------Im kinda partial to blue Z avitars myself but yours looks sweet too

I have those 2 items, and no complaints at all...stock 71 diff. 79 zx 5 speed, pretty lopey cam as well. about the only issue i have at all is it wants to idle a bit on the high side close to 900-1000 or so. (if I want it to be stable in traffic) if i try to go down to 600rpm, after a time doing stop and go driving it tends to stumble a bit at long stoplights, but im not sure this is all from the flywheel/clutch setup.

its common for a for a car dealership to "pre load" the entire lot of cars with lojacks, not only as a sales tool, but as a theft deterrent. cars get stolen off car lots quite often. if it was a used car, unless the prior owner was the one who had the lojack installed, and informs the party buying the car its pretty common for this to happen that someone dosnt even know they have a lojack...but it keeps working regardless weather you know you have it or not. soon as the guy gave the cops the VIN / reported it stolen it was active

Well, most all alarms have at least 1 output wire used for accessories, its usually a simple negitive ground output upon arming of the alarm. (hit the arm button, or perhaps a 2nd button on your transmitter and the wire sends out a constant "ground" until disarmed or turned off) and usually is only enough of an output to control a relay (an electronic switch) which in turn can turn your holley pump off by breaking one of the wires going to it...in line somewhere un obvious...meaning you dont wire into the pump right at the pump. you dont want to make it to easy to bypass/hotwire. the diagram below is the basic wiring for it. the terminals are numbered, just wire the relay up as shown. on terminals 86 and 85, youll need to combine the diode and the wire into 1 crimped connector or 1 soldered unit. pay attn. to which way the diode is facing, the striped side closer to terminal 86. Im sorry but im not sure the color coding on your specific alarm, if you have the wiring diagram itll be easy. otherwise you will need to test the wiring on the alarm with a multimeter. **OOPS! i left the drawing on the work computer! i'll add it tomarrow**

Hi all.. I worked for Lojack for 6 years as a field service tech...installing about 2500 Lojacks a year..so ive done about 15,000 of them on everything from big rigs to mini coopers. I dont work for them any longer, so I have no interest in the company, so all the stuff im telling you is just the facts on the company and what it does, how it works etc.. Lojack is a great tool to use in the "RECOVERY" of your car AFTER its been stolen. Lojack maintains about a 95% recovery rate. On average, most of the cars are recovered within an hour or 2, they get most cars back within minutes of notifying the police, the key is KNOWING your car has been stolen RIGHT AWAY...the longer you are unaware of the theft, the lower the odds of recovering it go. The system is a small transponder system, about the size of a pack of cigarettes, and can go anywhere in your car. lojack has wired and wireless units. usually on the average car they are wired, to a power source somewhere..the techs will try to wire it up discreetly as possible..on a early Z its not to easy to be discreet since theres hardly any wiring...1 requires only 1 power wire so theres no harness stuff being obvious like an alarm. the units also come with a backup power supply inside the units. this supply has a shelf life of about 10 years. if unused. Once the lojack is activated the backup battery will run the lojack for about 2 days..assuming the power feed from your car has been taken away.this is usually plenty of time to find the vehicle. lojack guarantees it will recover your car within 2 days..or your money back. What makes it work. like I said its a transponder system, it does not emit a signal until it is told to do so, the only way to activate or wake up the transponder is by reporting your car stolen, and entering your VIN number into the Stolen Vehicle computer by the police. this computer system is not a lojack thing, its a network setup by law enforcement , and the database is maintained by the Department of Justice. even if you live outside a "covered" lojack area, once the local police dept punches it in thier computer the info goes to DOJ (dept of justice) and your vin is checked with thier database, if you have a lojack, it will be activated automatically & remotely. of course its silent. the thiefs generally have no clue whats up. a pro may look in "common" areas of a car to see if its got a lojack, but like i said, lojack get about 95% of the cars back, so 95% of thiefs do not find the unit. 1st of this year Lojack started offering a "early warning" lojack system, to help cut out the "not knowing my car was gone" weakness in the system down. how this works is, a 2nd device is connected to the Lojack, which uses an inertia sensor of sorts, similar to an air bag sensor, but rather sensing the type of motion a car moving makes...which sends a signal back to the main unit, which sends out a signal OUT of the car, to the network, which then calls you or emails you or pages you or text messeges you.., tells you someone might have taken your car..then you can verify this, and report it stolen right away. YES it would be better to just tell the police this directly, but...the cops dont like chasing false alarms...like your teenage son going for a little joyride, or your ex wife taking your car...to wizz you off etc etc.. the way the early warning system knows its not YOU just driving your car, is it also has a 2nd transponder setup built in, like some of the new cars have today, built into thier Keys. but for the lojack they use an alarm sized remote on your key chain. anyone with this remote, can drive your car without triggering the device. the lojack detects the remote transponder automatically. coming out soon is a new device, called a lojack "locate" system, which will work almost like a "Onstar" system in GM cars does. able to unlock locked doors and other features too. For me, the best setup would be a Lojack with the early warning system. And a fuel cutoff switching system thats activated remotely. (so there is no flip switches hidden around the car to be found..and so the thief briefly moves the car just enough to trigger the lojack then the car dies. remote control setups are about 1/2 the price of alarms, and have several outputs to control multiple things...the DEI (Directed Electronics) Valet System has door lock outputs and 3 or more seperate channels for controling other devices...like a fuel cutoff..or starter/ign kill..it also has a flashing LED for the dash/console. so it is a visual deterant as well , without all the dumb siren sounds that everyone ignores anyway. and yes, a tow truck WILL trigger the inertia sensor inside the Lojack too. Ive been doing automotive aftermarket for a long time, so if someone needs help with installation questions just ask OHHH Lojack does NOT sell its products outright to anyone. it maintains its own fleet of techs, that come to you, and hide the units in your cars. It is policy that no one is to be around the vehicle at the time of installation including the owner. This usually isnt an issue with new or newer cars..but with classics like Z's and others , some owners, really really want to be right there with the tech...some of the field techs dont mind while others are by the book not allowing anyone around the car at all. the reason for the secrecy is that they are installing a police tracking sytem, a hidden tracking system, that if the hiding locations were general knowlege, the success rate of the system would drop. and then of course your odds of getting your vehicle back would drop. It is also policy not to show anyone what a lojack looks like as well. Though suggesting a good hiding location especially on a "out of the ordinary car" or classic car, or even pre tearing down of an area you think might be good isnt out of the question. Noramlly a tech may go weeks without touching a classic car, as most people that are buying lojacks are new car buyers. A classic like a Z is fairly fragile, the tech knows it , so this kind of assistance is usually not rejected. ok enough for now. ive been typing forever it seems. JacK

looks like you did a nice job on the paint, did you do all that yourself?

Whatever you do, dont cheap out on the floatbowl to nozzle tubes/hoses...the cheap aftermarket ones will dry out and crack leaking fuel...usually during some high speed adventure....go oem on these hoses.

agreed...some of those aftermarkets are like pressed tin foil...

hmmm i could make it work...

Also theres a couple of videos with good exhaust sound on Jasons site, he has a 3 into 2 header with 3" exhaust on a 3.2 stroker. Videos are here

I found em.... once at the site, on the left click the link "ABOUT" once that page loads, scroll down to the bottom right, 2 links that say: video1 & video2 click those bad boys

Sal's a good guy , and the couple of problems ive had with defective or damaged parts over the years he has always fixxed the problem promptly. DISCLAIMER: (jackboxxx is not affiliated with MSA. just a happy customer.)

the ones I got are the 205/60/14's ive got my car lowered slightly, about an inch. no rubbing at all.

I bought some Falkens recently for my orginal 14x6 slotted mags, good treadwear/traction ratings, nice tread design. Those 6 spokes of yours are 14" arent they? Im sure theres plenty of other better tires out there for xcross, but for whipping around the backroads in my area they seem to do the trick pretty well. The tires were 50$ bucks each with free shipping to your door. link to tire site with specs Tire on car. Oh &#036;^&#33;# ! theres dirt on my car....BRB

Ahh Suki! the best looking ride in the whole movie in my opinion! Suki & the Snake!

OHH fight fight! 20 bucks on Lance! (my real name too!)

there are a couple others I looked at on the internet. they are: Northwest Datsun Owners Assn. and Northwest Datsun Enthusiasts Im not sure how close to Seattle they are to you.

on the 240 its a small 2 wire harness that comes out of the main engine compartment harness about 6 inches after it comes through the firewall below the battery area down by the frame rails. (see pic) the wires on my car are red/black & red. there are a couple of retainer/bendable clips to hold the harness next to the frame rail away from harm. the wires have the male/female bullet plugs on them to plug into the wires coming off the rev. switch on the pass. side of the tranny near the speedo cable area. Pic of Harness under battery tray pass. side near firewall.

Sigh...some people just seem to wait to give a person a hard time... You just wanted to share with some fellow "car guys" your new toy. Ive always wanted a Gran National...so what make this motor you got so special you wanted to share anyways?

yep KYB g2's for a softer more orginal ride...hows the rest of your suspension? springs..bushings etc? also put new bump stops on the strut housing when you do your struts.

Ahhh i remember that! but my memory is too fuzzy to remember what kind it was either.

good good, take some pics when you get done going back to stock setup did you have any issues with the recent hurricane? im out of town and just got this reply from you.. Lance