jackboxxx

stereo or power antenna wires????

Having never even thought of replacing my gauge lighting, what is the model # of 240z bulbs? ba9? and how many is required to replace all of them? I would love better lighting..

I usually only "tussle" with cars on the freeway since thats where im at 95% of the time on my 135 mile round trip to work...usually what happens is a group of guys in a civic/accord/240sx/corolla/celica/integra etc etc whiz by or pull up along side me revving thier engines...probably because i snaked by them thru traffic or something and took offence...my Z is anything but "quiet", with the 1 5/8" nissan motorsports header 2.5 inch exhaust and magnaflow muffler..the kids think im challenging them by winding thru traffic past them i guess..(i really am just rushing home) anyways, I have a "defect" in my brain or something and cant back down from a challenge, so, I drop it to third, hit the hammer and run it thru 4th (traffic allowing) glance up at the mirror to see them struggling a block behind me..or exiting the freeway quickly... once and a while you get a cool guy catching up to you and giving the thumbs up sign... the only car that gave me a legitimate run for my money was 2 guys in a sweet looking yellow Subaru WRX STi the other night about 11pm on the 60E between the 215 and redlands blvd...(yea about a umm 8-10 stretch of highway) basically we were pretty evenly matched, and did rolling runs several times...we'd get up along side each other stomp on the pedal, I would get the jump on him, for about 2 car lengths by then his turbo was in full swing and I couldnt pull him anymore..then around 110-120mph id have to drop off the gas and he would fly by...same deal if he jumped on the gas 1st, I couldnt pull him .. but he couldnt pull away either... N-42 Block -Boiled, Bored, Honed 89MM "240SX" Pistons & Rings New 5.25" rods w/ARP Bolts Worked E-88 Head w/ Race Porting LD28 Crank, Magnafluxed & Polished BHJ Custom Street Balancer/Dampener 478 / 275 Cam New Rod & main Bearings New Intake & Exhaust Valves All New Timing Chain Kit, Water Pump, Turbo Oil Pump Dual SU Carb Mod to 50mm K & N 850cfm Air Filters Recurved Distributor w/ Pertronix Electronic Ign Upgrade MSD BLASTER 2 Ignition Coil Setup (45,000 volt) Nissan Motorsports Chrome 3into2 Comp. Header 1.5/8" Tubing 2 1/2" Exhaust Magnaflow Muffler Lightened Aluminum Flywheel 13.5 LB. Centerforce 2 Clutch & Pressure Plate 5 Speed Transmission

I still use my ballast (stock unit) with my pertronix setup. I noticed when i bypassed it, i got a lot more TACH needle "bouncing" up and down. anyone else observe this too???

For me, Currently: I trade back and forth between my 2001 GMC Sierra and My 1971 Blue Z to go back and forth to work, usually the Z only gets out 1 day a week, mostly Saturdays when traffics light and I can enjoy driving her the way she should be driven. The Wife gets the 1998 Ford Explorer 5.0 V8 to drive... Previously Enjoyed : 1st car: 1968 Chevelle Malibu 327 / 275 hp w/powerglide 2nd car: 1969 Chevelle SS396 /375 hp Muncie trans 3rd car: the next few years I rode motorcycles... Yamaha RD350, Honda DOHC 450 Honda CB550 then back to cars... 4th car: 1971 Camaro RS / SS 5th car: Fiat Spyder 2000 6th car: Fiat X 19 (it was cheap ok!) 7th car: Datsun/Nissan 310GX 8th car: 79 Honda Prelude 9th car: 1984 Toyota Celica GTS 10th car: 1971 240Z 11th car: 1971 240Z (still have) 12th car: 1973 240Z (still have) 13th car: 1990 Mustang GT 5.0 14th car: 1971 240Z (current driver) thats it for me

The SU tops are aluminum so, couldnt the chip be repaired via welding? then polished to a high shine? unless of course your going for a "color" scheme in your engine bay.

hey wait a minute...wheres your rear bumper attachment holes....hmmm

What is this "A/C" thing you speak of?

Ive got this swampland in florida for sale....

you could check if it is a ground issue by adding a temp ground wire or just grounding a couple foot piece of wire on the chassis back there, maybe at the power antenna bracket bolt for example, then with your lights ON and dim like normal, touch the ground wire to the ground side on the bulb or ground wire itself..if you bulbs or bulb light up like normal, then you know what the problem is..

ok, now if reethi is able to "jump" the terminals @ the solenoid, and his car will start, then his ignition has juice getting to the coil, to allow the car to run, and the solenoid itself works because it allows the starter to crank, the starter works because it starts the car, the only thing left is the wire to the solenoid that closes the relay inside the solenoid and allows the starter to crank... so all that needs to be done is to test this wire at various locations, till you find the problem spot in the wire...the most likely area is between the solenoid and the main harness "breakoff" point where it sits on the framerail below the battery. test to see if juice is coming thru that wire when you have the "key in the crank or start" position...if you dont have juice at the main harness point, id then check the back of the ignition switch to see if you have juice coming out of that wire when attempting to crank, before un taping the harness and following the wire any further. ignition switches on 30+ year old Z's tend to be pretty worn out. if you have power there, then you have to start looking at your harness itself...look carefully around the area below the battery...ive seen several damaged harnesses from battery acid...then go to the inside of the firewall and see if your harness has been messed with between there and the ign switch. If you suspect its inside the wrapped harness somewhere, you can run a jumper wire from the back of the ignition sw. to the solenoid to see if you can crank it from the switch then...if so, then start searching the harness.

Ive got a set of those exact tires on my Z, no complaints at all...

you are correct, stripping is not always the answer...true a lot of older cars we work on need a portion of the vehicle stripped, (being in CA.) we mostly see roofs, hoods, fender tops, and trunks needing this from sun and smog damage. usually the sides of the car can be taken care of with a DA sander.

for really bad old paint We use a product called: "Strip it dry" at the shop, works pretty fast, it comes out of the can in a jelly form and is pretty easy to apply, using some cheap paint brushes. its super strong so DONT get it on your bare skin...you will feel it burning within a few seconds.. Ive seen it eat through tennis shoes...so pay attn when applying it. the key to using this stuff is preparing the area... like Bruce said avoid those nooks and crannies, if you miss cleaning up a little of that stuff, it could really mess up your paint job...we just Mask off the outside edges of whatever we are stripping, so we have a buffer zone so to speak, between the stripper and where we dont want it to go. once applied, let it do its thing for 30 minutes or so, then come back with a soft scraper like a "bondo" spatula, and a cardboard box, and scrape it off...into the box for easy disposal. after cleaning it off the work area, then go over the area with your desired abrasives, then clean surface again with a final cleaner, (prep solvent of some sort) or alcohol wipes, then etch prime the area.

Sounds to me like your choke cables are not closing the butterflies on the carbs like they should... usually when im setting my choke back up I make sure the linkage (on the sides of the carbs) is all the way in the down/off position, and then make sure the choke lever is fully down/closed...PRIOR to connecting the choke cables to the linkage..then connect them, making sure I dont move the linkage when attaching them. then check the play when pulling the choke lever from inside, and ALSO checking to make sure the choke Is completely disengaged when I push the lever "closed" or off.. when you pull the choke lever it should bring the rpms up...WAY up if all the way engaged..so be careful

Sigh... I So miss my gold 240...I bartered with a shop called "One a day" paint and body back when I did Auto Sound Systems..and traded for a base clear redo of my gold paint...heres the only pic I have left..this was well..my son in the pic is now 18yrs old...so like 10 years ago. Post some pics of that Z when your done Bryan! sounds like its gonna be awesome!

Im not offended, and Im going to attempt to help you if I can, 1st i must say that you cant really blame the parent company, for the bad business practices of a franchisee, Maaco is quite through in its screening process of owners, and in the specifics of the franchise agreement, (how you are supposed to conduct business) but once you are on your own in your shop, Its very hard for maaco corporate to see ALL you do...or dont do on a daily basis... The certification process of maaco standards has only been in effect for the last 3 years or so and, there are MANY "older" long time owners out there that are resisting the whole certification thing. ( they just dont want to change thier way of doing things...) You do have options available to you, every maaco shop has a district manager, regional director, corporate operations manager, to answer to, The corporate office has a dept. to handle these kinds of problems... and you should have a warranty from Maaco as well. What can happen is you could be sent to another maaco shop to do the painting properly, then the orginal shop will have to pay the other shop for its time fixxing thier mistakes. But this sounds like a touchy issue that needs to be handled thru the corporate office... could you PM me or email me with a copy of the invoice and contact information and I'll make sure the right people get your info and get you taken care of. my email is below. Thanks, Lance maacoofwhittier@gmail.com

nice .....

Most definitly depends on your setup...what kind of setup were you planning on doing??? and your needs of course...what are your expections when your done fixing up your motor? (are we ever REALLY done???) do you want something the run fast 1/4 mile times or an autocrosser type or? Yep I have one of these motors with the 50mm SU's and as my 18yr old honda driving Son would say..."it's Hella fast" the 1st time i took him out for a demo run it scared the Sh*t out of him....has incredible torqueand pulls like a son of a bitch... but...If I went with the triples instead....id probably gain 15-25 hp easy... Are you doing any internal work on the motor? if not, SU's might be all you really need...

Yep. that rear floor has got some damage.... I dont think anyone mentioned the idea, but have you thought about maybe picking up another Z? one without the severe bodywork you need, maybe a not running one, and transfer your drivetrain? and use you existing car as a donor for whatever else? I know its not a pleasant thought, but weve seen some pretty decent 70-73 Z's sell in the last few months in the 0-1000 range and your bodywork is probably over that fairly easy.

Agreed Someone mentioned a page or 2 back on how that type look/ paint would be great for a racecar/autocross car...or if you have a street car that you want that "just came from the track" look. I thinks its perfect for those kind of applications. I have had quite a few inquiries lately for a flat or semi gloss paintjobs...

Although im not an aussie, but have some aussie friends, Im 94.3% sure he means "bog=bondo" anyways, based on the very rear of the quarter panel, the part around the taillight mostly I have to say you need to section out the quarter panel and put a new one in. also that lower panel below the bumper is in pretty bad shape as well. I think the reason most say to cut and paste or put a new quarter panel in is because the cost of bodyshop hours to pound out and reshape the quarter, would exceed the cost of the new sheetmetal & labor to install. was the gas tank pushed in as well? how about the inner rear body? (below the carpet, and also behind the right side & rear plastic interior panels)? It looks to me the whole right side is "down" a bit..the bodyline seems low...or maybe its just the camera angle?

I have the Eibach pro series springs with the KYB's

Im sorry but there is a very big difference here...Dont have any illusions that your going to obtain a finish anything close to the Z has above using the paint like the charger has below. on the plus side, the charger has that vintage look with the roller paint (looks like older partially oxidized paint that has been buffed and polished) the paint is pretty tuff will last a long time ill bet. there is this trend in the paint market for flats and semi gloss painting. and for 50 bucks...and a LOT of wetsanding its a great deal. I only posted this so if anyone out there is planning to do this type of paint application that they dont have any unrealistic expectations on how the paint will turn out.

Its probably just the hydraulics for the clutch (slave cyl.) I would clean out the the entire assembly, refill and bleed the slave cyl.