jackboxxx

I might be wrong as its been awhile since I had my fuse box out, but if memory serves isnt this the 12v feed wire from the battery? it would explain the rubber boot to protect it from grounding on metal. is it a lagre guage wire? like 12 ish...assuming its the power feed wire for the fusebox, it probably bolts on to the top underside of the fusebox.

A few months back, when doing my engine swap, I replaced those, and got them from MSA as well, (after trying to install plain old heater hose..which wouldnt bend the way we needed, they just kinked...) The hoses I got from them were in datsun or datsun type plastic wrapers, but not braided...just plain black rubber. They did fit perfectly though, and now matched all my other hosing, not braided.

or is that decending? i dont know im so sleepy...*yawn*

now if it was in accending order from the 1st Z.....

1st step, remove doors, then....

That is pretty damm nasty...

, I reponded the same way when i first read that post, (I lived in san pedro for many years) but reading it again he said he is going on a cruise SHIP out of san pedro HARBOR...sigh I would drive all the way from riverside to do that (cruise san pedro i mean) I used to live right across from San Pedro Pirates High School football field...off of 12th st. my old 71 Z even got side swiped by a trash truck there...ohhh the memories...

I guess the next step is an addresss location of the property and a little research of public records to find out who the owner is..

Where abouts are you located? find the closest one for sale near you and go try it on for size. If your in riverside county let me know ill find one you can sit in. Im 6'1" and have a couple extra notches let to go back...in legroom. the legroom is one of the nice features the Z has.

yea not cheap but worth every penny...I think I paid somewhere close to $480+tax for mine and drove to gardena to get it from the warehouse. (1-5/8ths, chrome) is betamotorsports your shop John? Sounds like yours is close to mine in Whittier

hmmm, well you could have the head worked, throw a mid level cam in while your at it, and talk to Dave (Rebello) about boring out your SU's...for better air/fuel flow to match your new head work. which will jump your carbs from the mid 200's cfm to the mid 300's cfm each. When they do the carb buildup, they rebuild them from the ground up, and look pretty damm close to a set of Ztherapy renewed carbs. Carburetors & Parts Big Bore 240Z SU 50mm - $850.00/pair (exchange). http://www.rebelloracing.com/prod03.htm

If you have the original numbers matching unmolested 2.4L engine, thats in good running order, I think you oughta store it, do you still have the original 4 speed that came with it? Z prices are going up the more the original it is the better. I did this (stored my good running original drivetrain) and put a Rebello 3.1L in my Z and couldnt be happier, I've got tons of HP and torque, so much so I really have to be careful with the gas pedal now!

Any Z repair shops up in your area doing work? My last 71Z I had the MSA 6into1 header, and called the local Z shop and asked what shop he used locally, and brought my car there, the guy did a great job, nice and straight under $200 bucks. this time around, I had installed a Nissan motorsports 3 into 2 header, and brought it to the local shop, with a "Y" adaptor I wanted him to use to connect to the exhaust pipe, but it was a bit off, touching the drivers floor area slightly, so he fabricated a new one, angled slightly different, and ran a nice clean new pipe all the way back..i pointed out how low my existing muffler hung too low, and that it would be nice to be able to tuck it up higher, I bought one of his slightly shorter mufflers, with the intake part on the correct side to meet up with the pipe, and he tucked it up like better than stock...this setup cost, about $250, plus $400+ for the nissan header. the guys in both applications, welded the muffler, to the exhaust. a nice new setup should last you many many years...and not need replacing. those U clamps rust out..and are a pain...if your concerned about having to replace it, go with a stainless muffler, and or aluminized piping..they usual are backed with a long warranty.. and yep, the usual way aftermarket mufflers are installed is at an angle..or turned..due to limited space in that area.

! your the 1st to notice where that came from:devious:

Yea due to the damage on the both body lines, and around that quarter glass, Id reccomend replacing the quarter panel as well..if one is available. JacK Maaco Collision Repair & Auto Painting

When I used to live down near the beach in So. Cal, where parking and space is at a premium, people would rent out "parking garages" from homeowners for a 100-300 a month...maybe you could find something like that? and then be able to have both? just a thought.

I have a working verision of it as well. be happy to forward it to you or anyone else who wants it. Im using adobe acrobat 6.0 not even the latest version to view it.

I thought Orginally 1 key fit ALL locks on a Z? On my car, a 1971, I have the orginal keys as well, 1 key for all except for the Ignition, Which according to my documention was replaced in umm 1998-1999. explaining why it is a diff. newer style key.

Well I guess my 1st question is: are you using your 280z as your only transportation? your daily driver? my concern is where you live you get more than your fair share of harsh winter weather, which is a scary thing for a Z car and I picture you fighting a losing battle to restore it. then maybe look into the Scout... If your Z is your project car, tucked away in the garage, away from all that nasty weather, keep the Z!

Those turned out pretty darn good...does the silver leaf seem durable once the sealer is on? the foil looks so fragile prior to applying. also the key is to enjoy the beers during the project, not before

1971 Datsun 240Z HLS30-40911 mybaby 1971 Datsun 240Z HLS30-40302 partsbaby :surprised 1973 Datsun 240Z HLS30-138472 futurebaby

Im just generallizing here but, Paint shops are usually in 1 of say 3 catagories, 1. "the production shop" (like Maaco, One a day paint, Earle Schib, etc) they like to paint a lot of cars, needing little work, thus charging a lower price. or 2. "the custom shop" (usually independently owned where they'll custom paint to spec, do restoration work etc) or 3. "Collision centers" ( they specialize more in the Heavy hit cars, major collisions, almost new cars, Big insurance work etc) As far as Maaco goes, they can do nice work, if you dont mind paying more than the "advertised" low prices you see on TV or the newspaper. and most Maaco shops take in restoration work as well as the usual work they do, but they will want you to be able to leave car for an extended time, not the usual 3-5 working days. Maaco is a pay by feature business model, you can go there, with a clean used car, pay 250-500 bucks, and theyll paint your car for you. understand though that for a price like that, very little in regards to preperation prior to painting will be done, basically theyll do some basic cleaning, do minor sanding and primer, then shoot (paint) your car. This kind of work is fine if your painting a 10-20 yr old car you just want to drive a couple more years type of situation. Now, lets talk about "extra" features, from Maaco's point of view, for example, the paint job above, is a truly BASIC repaint, the car for that PRICE, will be painted the same color...no door jambs will be painted, no under hood, or engine compartment or under trunk/deck lid..all these things take more labor time, take more materials (paint etc) to do...and of course the price increases, and you can probably double the price to $1000 or so to have these things painted too. Remember those places on the average 10-20 year old car being painted the same color, most likely wont need painting because they dont get all that damage that the outside of the car gets. Maaco charges extra for color changes because its more work to cover a car with a different color, more preperation, more paint & primer etc, they usually charge 100-200 more for it. (especially) a car like yours with several different color body parts.. Now lets look at your car or (mine for that matter), its not 10-20 years old, its 35 years old..its pieced together, from several different Z cars, each body panel is aged in different ways, maybe the hood and roof paint is all cracked and delaminating (peeling) maybe the red & orange doors are all faded out..and you maybe used your basic 2 dollar a can home depot primer on the hatch...to the paint shop guy this is a mess, and we havent even got into any body work yet that you might need, any deep scratches, door dings, dents, RUST (which costs double the usual bodywork labor rate) the hours and hours of block sanding the body of the car to smooth out the metal on the car after all that bodywork is done..did i mention stripping of old paint? after all thats done, how far do you want to go with painting the car? are you just going to put a basic primer on it? a nice primer/sealer? a high end paint? just basic paint? material wise, costs can be double as well, a gallon of paint can be 50-70 bucks (shop cost) or 200 a gallon or more. are you stripping down the car of everything (lights, trim, glass, rubber, interior, drivetrain?) if im painting a car inside and out, that is more paint...(materials) but less preperation..(masking, removing of various parts prior to paint) Look the point im trying to make here is there is a lot more to painting a car than people realize, Especially with a beautiful classic like a Z car, Its a LOT of work to make a classic car look the way it did on the showroom floor, but the final product is something quite special, which explains why the Z was and still is such a popular car. I suppose before I close this reply, I could give you an idea of what it might cost if you brought your car to my Maaco shop...for a "decent" paintjob, (lets assume, your car is completely straight...no dings, no dents, no rust, no bodywork of any kind. and you just drove it in no prior prep ) (and you want enamel paint like your Z had orginally, but a different color) $249-399 for cheap or good enamel paint $129-500 for sanding prep and or stripping depending on cond. of paint $90 each for painting of each door jamb and or hood or inside deck lid $200-400 for colorsand & buff so somewhere between $900 and say $2000 to be safe..because we arent including taxes, haz mat fee, any materials..over and above the expected.

I wanted something I could give all those local kids in the "fast & furious" crowd a run for thier money with. N-42 Block -Boiled, Bored, Honed 89MM flattop Pistons New 5.25" rods w/ARP Bolts Worked E-88 Head w/ Race Porting LD28 Crank, Magnafluxed & Polished BHJ Custom Street Balancer/Dampener 478 Lift / 275 Duration Rebello Cam New Rod & main Bearings New Intake & Exhaust Valves All New Timing Chain Kit, Water Pump, Turbo Oil Pump "Big Bore" Dual SU Carb Mod 50mm Recurved Distributor w/ Pertronix Electronic Ign Upgrade MSD BLASTER 2 Ignition Coil Setup (45,000 volt) Nissan Motorsports Chrome 3into2 Comp. Header 1.5/8" Tubing 2 1/2" Aluminized Exhaust w/ Stainless Steel Magnaflow Muffler Lightened Aluminum Flywheel 13.5 LB. Centerforce 2 Clutch & Pressure Plate 280ZX Turbo 5 Speed Transmission Dyno tuning 1 This pic is several runs combined for fine tuning purposes. Bar Chart Readout 1 Tried to catch the readout right at peak HP output...i missed slightly. 4500-7300 RPM Readout Then a complete printout through the RPM range.

I would be very interested in reading that forum.

OMG! it is a crack pipe...! not that I would know...what a crack pipe looks like...umm a Toyota guy told me it was..yea thats it.