JZM

No challenge.I understand your concern but it's really no big deal to do. I stock ACL,NDE,MICHIGAN,TAIHO,TOP LINE,ROCK.CLEVITE AND ITM rod and main bearings, I just test fitted a 0.010 undresized crank in an F54 block and checked thrust clearance and only the ACL AND THE ITM bearings did not need to be touched up.sometimes its just going to happen.you can send the bearings back and get some more or go to a differant brand that will suit your needs better.hopefully we are talking about the same thing.please check your block and your crank very good for any defects/burrs or debris.Lots of people have the misconception that hey if its new its got to be right or perfact, in the automotive/machining business that rarly true and you need to adjust as best you can.thats why we call it machine work. What brand of bearings are you using? Whats your main bearing clerance? JZM..

Before you remove the ballast.make sure that the pertronix can handle battery voltage, unlike the mallory unilite unit which can only take about 8-9 volts max. JZM..

You forgot to mention your air intake set up,your MSD W/larger spark plug gaps,your degreed cam and your friend that tunes your carbs. JZM..

Going off what you are saying,all you will need to figure out which side of the thrust bearing is too tight and get some 400 grit wet/sand paper and a very flat serface and lightly wet sand/scuff the thrust bearing serfacetil you get the proper clerances. crank shaft free end play is-STANDARD@0.0020 TO 0.0071 AND LIMITED TO 0.0118in. This is how we do it in our machine shop..we do not resurface that part of the crank shaft.hope this helps. JZM..

Ya what Zs-ondabrain said. JZM..

: WHY I OTTA:tapemouth !... JUST KIDDIN. IT'S COOL. JZM..

Not to sure,I can't seem to remember the pertronix unit only having one wire. the units I have here all have two wire hook ups blk and a red or a purple and a green.all hook ups look good except the pertronix. pertronix w/ black wire-to the msd white wire and the red wire -to the small red on the msd. Not sure about the tach adapter I do not have a spec sheet/wiring diagram. JZM..

Sometimes I use a long braker bar.keep the car on the ground,install the socket and the braker bar so that the end of the braker bar is on the floor or the frame rail. [aiming to the drivers side],disable ignition coil wire and turn the key!the bolt is a righty tighty lefty loosey so when the engine cranks it will loosen the bolt with out engine damage[or any other damage if done right and safely].at the shop we sometimes have to do that.I know it does'nt sound all that good but it works. If all else fails and you don't want to do it this way a chain wrench may work...but... you may damage the pulleys.or you could just remove the radiator and have a clear shot with an air gun.[DO NOT LOCK THE TRANSMISSION IN GEAR AND TRY TO REMOVE THE BOLT THAT WAY YOU COULD DAMAGE THE INTERNALS OF THE TRANSMISSION---PERSONAL EXPERIENCE.] although sometimes it works. bolt torque is 87 to 11 ft lbs. JZM..

Anytime. JZM..

YES. JZM..

Early Z tach are current triggered / sign wave. like an alternator. Square wave is digatal. JZM..

Quafe[GEARS W/VISCOUS PLATES],nissan[VISCOUS COUPLING],zero[GEARS W/VISCOUS PLATES And Torson-gleason[GEARS] which are like the units found in the hummers,but smaller.they My Not Be Available anymore.Their may be more but these are the diffs we use.they are all vary good diffs.depends on the application of the car. JZM..

I've been working on Z cars for 20 years [11 at my current place] and my personal favorite spark plug is the stock NGK's per application. also prefer the NGK spark plug wires.I've used many differant brands and many differant materials,to the likes of platnum and,iridium,which work very well in later model Z cars but are not intended for the older Z's with older type fuel injection systems or carburation set ups.It's all up to the person working on or driving the car.[performance and racing apllications not included] my rule of thumb is if it came with it stay with it, [unless you can make or find something better].like autolites to ford,ac delco to GM,denso to toyota,bosch to german cars,champion to lawn and garden equipment[he he] ,and NGK's for just about everything else.their are all sorts of spark plugs out there.chose wise to your application. JZM..

Ya ya the DA-ZZZEZ :stupid: :stupid: :love: :devious: :devious: JZM..

SPARK PLUG GAP-0.032 TO 0.036in. POINTS [sINGLE]-0.45 TO 0.55mm.dwell@35-41. POINTS [stock or mallory]SAME AS STOCK SINGLE. TIMING-7deg.B.T.D.C [4 spd].@750-800rpm. VALVE CLEARANCE-[HOT]-INT,0.010in.-EXH,0.012in. VALVE CLEARANCE-[COLD-INT,0.008in.-EXH,0.010in. COMPRESSION PRESSURE-[sTD] 178-185psi@300TO400RPM/WOT FUEL PRESSRUE @750rpm-3.8 TO 4.0 MAXIMUM CENTRIFUGAL ADVANCE@ DIST.-[RPM], 12DEG@[1400] MAXIMUM VACUUM @IN,-[Hg] 6deg@[18.7] FIRING ORDER- 153624 VACUUM PORTS ON THE DAUL WEBERS ARE ON THE BACK SIDES[CLOSER TO THE INT.]ON THE BOTTOM SIDE NOT ON THE INTAKE MANIFOLD OR INT. RUNNERS.PORTS FOR THE VACUUM ADVANCE ARE BEFORE THE THROTTLE PLATE.I HAVE ALL THE FACTORY MANUALS FROM 1970 TO 1999 [Z] AND ALSO HAVE CD TYPE MANUALS FOR THE 350Z AND COUNTLESS TECH NOTES AND TSB's, HOPE SOME OF THIS HELPS. JZM..

Whats the pro date on your Z? The dealer says that pre 12/71 are no longer available.however if found new,the price would be around $120.00-130.00. JZM..

That is a sweat looking ride.I would love to have a 510sw. JZM..

Thats just what he needs to put a john dear choke cable on his 1971 DATSUN 240Z. JZM..

perfect! JZM..

Deadflo,we have choke cables hear at Z-sport [in everett] give me a call if you need one and I'll ship it out,[ask for johnny]or you could go to your local dealership and order one. performance nissan provides us with our stock orders so I know they can still get them. JZM..

Jack up the car, lay under the trans and get something to reach the cable at the hood latch and pull..[safty items in mind]. JZM..

Check fuel pressure and flow. pressure spec is 36.3,but will run fine if lower. Check for spark. Check battery connections,also check the ecu power and ground wires at the battery. Thats a good start.let us know which one has failed and we'll help get it going! JZM..

Try the harness conectors at the small/sub harness between the center console and the main dash harness on the passenger side it runs across the trans hump to the fire wall, [assuming you are using the dash harness from the 77-Z you mentioned.Look for the nasty green corrosion. good luck!! JZM..

Dave,the transmission rebuild kit will cost you about 109.00+tax,the diff kit will cost you about 100.00 to 150.00+tax.[add 20% to both.]I'll rebuild the trans for 100.00 and the diff for 70.00.[unless you help me,than you can cut the cost down to half of each.]or you can L.E.D my 300zx tail lights,side and front markers.[i'll pay for the l.e.d's and all nes. parts.] P.S.... 79 TRANS RATIO'S FOR TRANS #FS5W71B 1-3.321 2-2.077 3-1.308 4-1.000 5-0.864 R-3.382 Hopes this helps! JZM...

Anyone else? JZM..