JZM

Well,it's still a Z like it or not.Z31s went from 84-88,84-85 being fairly close to each others body styling [sharp fender flair lines and hood scoops for the turbo models],86 was the first year of the more rounded fender flairs and 16in wheels,they knocked out the hood scoop,87-88 changed the front end to a more rounded style,tail lights from the two larger outer units to the long stream lined fender to fender lighting system.and a more rounded hood,drive train pretty much stayed the same through out the years.engines were VG30Es or a 205hp VG30ET,Transmissions T-5s of course or the getto matics differantials remained R-200s some came with viscous couplings [trac type loc].88 was the only year to have a hot rodded turboSS version,wider wheels,more horse power and torque.and slightly wider fender flairs and it only came in white.there arm many odds and ends I just named the major ones.I owned an 86Turbo it was alright,drove it for about a year and half then sold it to a guy who wrecked it two months later.I bought the drive train back.still have it.at the time I was going to Install it in one of my 240Zs. bottom line is there really good Zs.I think you'll enjoy it. JZM

Up here in the great northwest it is very much againts the law to run with out bumpers,the good thing is though most of the P.D. don't even now what a z car should look like. and if you do get pulled over you only get a warning. most of the time. JZM

What year?

I don't even have the words... P.S.not negatively speaking! JZM

Well I'm 34 and I've owned many Z cars from 70-up, both street and race.as of now I only have two a 73-race and a 90-:devious:street and currantly buying a early 70 for restoration only.I am also currantly looking for a early 12/70 pro-date Z.[for my birth date] any body know of one? JZM

It came in a Nissan bag with a "Made in Japan" decal / sticker on it, and the etching in the corner includes the Nissan logo. [originally posted by 26th-Z] Hmm...Looks to me like it's still a rebox/rebag nissan did not make windshields. thats why the nissan is "etched" in........ and a made in japan "sticker"! Windshields in nissan bags are 70-78 NOS parts which are still made by an out side source.so what your really paying for is an etching a bag and a sticker.. JZM

Let me do some research and I wil get back to you.and theres no such thing as too many questions.how would you know if you don't ask? JZM

MikeW-The only real differance is the thickness.besides the name"etched"on it.the old standard of thicker is better no longer is a standard.todays windshields are much safer due to this.if your going to go aftermarket don't go cheap!something is sure to go wrong. JZM

Aluminum its a funny thing. it likes to do some weird things when it gets HOT! after you check the cylinder head for staightness/flatness you should get it pressure checked for cracks,just to be on the safe side. while taking all others advice on this subject. JZM

Hay guys[and gals] I hate to say this but nissan has been using an after market source for windshields for at least 8 years now, that I know of.the part you get is a rebox.just because it says nissan does'nt mean they made it.think about it,1970-78z now its 05' how many windshields do you think they really made?the last order of windshields I ordered from nissan[20],only half were nos parts and even then most of them were reboxed.I have ordered this part from coast to coast for years with the same results.some times you'll get luckly and get the real thing.Heres a question,can anyone tell me the real differance between stock and aftermarket winshields?besides the nissan name.and don't try to tell me it "fits" better. P#72631-E4100 JZM

Please tell me you replaced your voltage regulator too.you don't want to replace your alternator again anytime soon do you? P.S. GOOD JOB ON THE SS! :devious: :devious: :devious: JZM

I forgot to tell you that the later 280ZXs came with a coating in the oil pan. Not sure why?I usually remove it, due to exc.coating brake down that does a good job of plugging up the oil pick-up....some of the engines I build,I polish the inside.[completely]yes it takes a lot of time but in the end it's worth of it to my customers and I. P.S.my opinion of powder coating-it's good stuff,it last along time and it looks great when done right. JZM

It won't hurt anything as long as the surface was prepaired correclty.I have installed many powder coated parts in and on engines with no problems. JZM

P90-turbo Zx Models, Square Port Exhaust,good Flow And Much Better Casting. JZM

Not sure about the mustang shifter,never had to use one.most of the installs I have done I've modified the front part the tunnel at shifter hole.

No..I'm talking about high horse power/high torque engines,like turbo charged, super charged and racing type engines.even then you don't really need them. look at all the older Z race cars -they didn't have them.I just like to put them on just in case.[i just holds things together a little better.]besides on an engine thats been dressed up they look really cool when polised. JZM

zeiss150 if your talking about your 72Z than I would first check the battery and connections[just to be safe]then check your alternator voltage output for older Zs first check it at about 1100 to 1200 rpm than check it at about 2500 rpm.if the voltage shoots upward beyond 14.9 to 15.0 volts you may have a voltage regulator problem.if the voltage does not go up that high you might have an alternator problem.be sure to check all related starting and charging connections first.I'm sure if you go to the nearest parts store they may be able to test a few items and at least give you some better direction. p.s.it's always wise to replace the alternator and the voltage regulator together. p.s.s.if your headlights are still or just not bright enough for you check out Zs-ondabrain he can help you out. JZM

ORIGINALLY tomohawk asked why the resistor was not there.there for I told WHAT the BALLAST RESISTOR was for so he would know why it was not there.I mentioned coils only because its related in all of this[but only for it's primary side-please re-read my first post]......I did not talk about what coils would best be used.And YES there are BALLAST RESISTORS in 280Zs I beleive there in 75-76- and 77s,[78 do not have them] and the other resistor, I am mentioning is for related low tension systems.[see wire diagrams for said years of 280Zs].I did not say that the ecu eliminates the ballast resistor and controls the coil.the 260Z and 280Zs have an ignition control box for spark control not resistance control.my first post information came from a 73Z factory service manual on page EE-26 which is a basic description of an ignition system with a ballast resistor. JZM

Are we talking about coils or why and where about resistors???? coils are a differant subject all-together.w/ todays tech-old school rules don't apply like they used to.but if your a hard core Z person stay w/the coil type it came with. not that thats what I thought we wre talking about,unless I missed something...? JZM

Ok here we go.the ignition ciruit is equipped with resistor.during cranking, electrical currant by-passes the resistor,thereby connecting the ignition coil directly to the battery.this provides full battery voltage avaliable at the coil and keeps the ignition voltage as high as possible.the low voltage currant is supplied by the battery or alternator and flows through the primary circuit.which consists of the ignition switch,resistor,primary windings of the ignition coil,distributor contact points,condensor and all connecting low tension wiring. [as written in the earlier Z and all ignition discription service manuals].If you remove the resistor from the system[early] you could go through coils,points and condensors prematurely. Basically with out you could fry your primary side and any related low tension wiring.the 280Zs do have a resistor in there system but it's inside the car and it ties into a whole lot more than just your ignition.electronic type ignition systems need higher and more consistant power to operate.electronic ignition coils are made not to use these resistors mostly due to the higher resistant primary windings.same as with all related low resistant wiring which is still not as weak as the earlier wiring systems.hope this helps you in your quest for knowlage about this subject. JZM

If you do not have the bolt holes on your block you can not use these brakets unless you drill and tap.you do not have to use them as they were put on as an attemp to stiffen the engine-trans mating,don't get me wrong they do work.but there not needed.I like to use them when I build higher powered L-series engines. JZM

Now I can see!Is that where your leak is? if so than cleaning any sludge build up may help you.unless something is causing exc. crankcase pressures. My pump for my 73 [still in nissan part box]is a nikki unit and has no breather holes.nissan used several pump manufactures and just reboxed the product. JZM

yes it's a great deal.like I said I've been working on this car for a few years now. It's not a rust bucket.I put some very close to stock floor boards in it a couple of years ago.it still has the original paint[no joke] its blue w/white. It does need to be restored and thats just what I plan to do with it.it will be as stock as it gets.I may even drive it once or twice when its done. [ya right!] considering Zs are what I do for a living theres not to many bad Zs out there.believe me I've seen some pretty bad early ones and brought them back to were they should be. JZM

look out people.por15 is great if you prepair/repair the surface well[yes it works over rust great].it does not work well on suspension pieces even if you treat the surface well its not near as good as powder coating [on suspesion and under car applications] at our body shop we've tried everthing to get it to stick well [it likes to chip].however it works great under the hood and in the engine compartment and inside.as for temp control I have applied it to a couple of engines,transmissions and diffs we'll see how long the surface last.I'll let you know. JZM

Big D I've got all the por15 stuff you'll need at the shop.come see me and we'll set you up with what you need. and yes you will need to prep the surface before you paint it.like I said come see me at the shop. p.s. remember the control arm w/the por15? JZM