TBK1

OK ! pulled the pistons, here's #6 which seemed to be the worst of all. Which ring is which , from top down. the only thing I noticed was the bottom set doesnt stick out near as much as the top 2 rings, bearings didnt look bad at all (from what I can remeber they are supposed to look like), crank rod mounting surfaces are clean, slick un scarred. When honing the cylinders is there a magic speed, low or high, or time spent in each cylinder , dont want to **** this up!

couple more questions, would there be a reason I cant have the flywheel turned, seen alot of rotors and drums in worse shape? Where and what brand for rings and bearings ?

Ok so I dont feel as stupid now! you guys are right on the money with what Ive been thinking, $^!# been 30 years since I tore one down this far for a rebuild, and that was a small block chevy.

ok this motor out of 77 ( unknown if original) Block N42 Unkown milage or Vintage, lots of other mods to car! head N47 (later model, No spray bar)(recently refreshed) Original problem was smoking bad after teenager snuck it out for a joy ride! compression results before tear down (engine was NOT warm, been out awhile)(rubber press in gauge, approx 5 comp stroke each)_ #1 #2 #3 #4 #5 #6 148 148 145 145 148 148 (after 3 Squicks of motor oil) 160 155 159 162 159 170 Tops of all pinston pretty Gunked up, 5 & 6 worse hard oily grease build up! No crap in oil pan, sump screen clean Clutch pressure plat flywheel trash, Rivets thru and groves! Havent pulled lower end bearings yet, but there was no noise or signs of problems when motor was pulled! The inside of cylinder walls had NO Ring RIDGE at top of cylinders, no gougesor deep scratches, almost looked like it still had hone marks???? Sorta but shinnier!! all spark plug ports had alittle standing oil on outside by threads, no valve cover leaks, 5 & 6 plugs oily/fouled, rest burning clean. cylinder bore unknown at this time(no dial mike to check (YET!!) head looked clean , cam not grooved, sharp edges (ouch!!) valve side 5 & 6 had build up on the valves and a COOPERn look around the ouside edges of the combustion chambers. Whats everones best EDUCATED guess!! Trying to put this back at Sons EXPENSE!!! And of course he's on a limited budget! I'm Not fessin up another Dime! This is the motor out of my 77 he trashed, needs to go in his 240 which he just ran out of oil and Knocking like a Bitch , barely will run or start! I know this is why animals " EAT THEIR YOUNG"!!

I have a complete FI sytem that came outa my 77 if you run into needing anything, all was working well when I pulled it 2 months ago!

Getting ALOT of great info/ ideas here, keep them coming, right now Im not doing anything, gonna let him think about it awhile!!!!!!!!! "Flight Engineer", is that the same as "CHAIRBORN" , just kidding I'm retired USAF myself 12 years now.

At japn auto bill? Good to see ya Jmark. Wont get the details, you now boys "I SWEAR I WASN'T DOING ANYTHING DAD"

OH forgot! his has the 4 speed, if we install the 5sp will the speedo gears interchange and will that keep the speedo acurate?

Gonna be kinda long here, SORRY! Ok! son apparently blew up/locked up/trashed his 73 240Z motor.Havent had a chance to go over and look at it, but doesnt sound good. what I am think is this. I have a complete 77 280 motor with 5sp sitting in the garage, problem , he took it out when it was installed in mine and now smokes like a B**ch. Thinking it is rings, since the N47 (non-oiler rail) was recently rebuilt with new seals ect. Thinking of pulling the plugs and powering the starter and checking compression, should this tell me if it's the rings? would do a lower end rebuild if necessary. now he has the dual weber down draft carbs and intake, will it fit on the newer N47 head that I have on the 280 motor? I have the complete FI on the 280z motor but would take it off, due to the expense of converting everthing. guess I can sell most or all of it. His has the E-88 head installed. Or would there be a better combo, to interchange between the 2 dont know which blocks either motor has but assume they are the stock blocks if there is such a thing! Thanks for reading this long sh*t. Any inputs appreciated. Not gonna go wild on this , but gonna make HIM PAY for any expenses!!!!!! Little Sh*t HAS GOT TO LEARN SOMETIME!!!!!!

I didnt make it this year eithe Jmark, but the club had like 13 peeps attend!

got a 260/280 infront of me (sticking when hot) it has 3 wire connections on back, 2 to the plastic insulator terminals and one to the brow phonelic connection.

All above is correct, I've done basically the same with a few twists. 77 FI converted to a Triple weber setup. Differences being that there is know where (using Cannon Intake) to route the valve cover vent and the engine side vent to! I used the small mess filter/breathers for now until I conjure something up! Also be careful of using just a regulator with the FI pump, MOST regulators are NOT rated for that high of pressure. I removed the FI pump and went back to mechanical with a BYPASS style regulator (Iwould reccomend this style).

Yeah , read thru the FSM but it doesnt break it down as to window only, it also includes the regulator assembly.

Thanks Lance, appreciate it!

Need to get my MPH corrected. Can you swap the gear assemblies between the 77 and 83 5spd trannys or do you have to change just the gear part. Saw somewhere that they might have a different offset!

went and pulled a door latch out of a wrecked car for my 77 and will i was at it noticed the window had no scratches so decided to take it also, came right out after removing the 2 bolts with the rubber washers that go thru the glass. tear mine apart and replace the latch and try to get the window out---NOT! Pulled same 2 bolts and the damn thing WILL NOT come out. seems like it is bonded some how to the metal track it sits in. Am I missing something here guys?

Got a spare 77 5 spd in the SE if someones interested!

here's another http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/wiringdiagrams/72_240z_wiring.pdf

http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/wiringdiagrams/240z/1972_240z.gif

Cruise-in at Little Rebel tonight , You going out? On 290, the new place!

that sounds the same as 280, maybe they got the wrong boot??

hey guys , I need a pic of how many shift boots are on a 73 240 and how the leather or interior boot mounts. Son's 240 console has a square opening and guy gave him new boot but something not right and is definately diff from my 77. top and underside pic would be GREAT or a very detailed explanation!! Didnt find anything in the FSM and no pic of the 240 in VB cat.

was reading a post by napabill at hybryd (ex - webber engineer) and stated that after you set the idle speed screw so that the throttle plate is in the correct position , you only adjust the mixture screw to acheive proper idle! I've done this and runns good but if thats the case what do you adjust to sync the carbs air flow, no effect with the mixture screw!mine are off abit (alot)

flashback to my old motor head days is that the spiking is not normal! The sons 73 doesnt do it. should see some thing when flashers or brake or turn signal applied , might have something shorted to ground or bounceing around touching intermitteantly. make sure you have a GOOD ground between the engine and body, add another ground strap to be positive ! When the gauge spikes it means there is something PULLING HIGH AMPS. could verify by checking amp draw with a "clamp-on-amp meter". any HVAC or electrical guy should have one.

correct ! have the volt gauge here! Got to hybrydz and do a search for NAPABILL posts. very interesting and he talks about the stumble and how to correct it and set the webbers. Still havent played with the timming on mine, currentlly set at 20 BTDC. Running good , seems alitlle rough at idle sometimes but think ill replace plug wires first, keep pulling the ends and have to repair them. also running NGKs sett at 34, might jump that up to 40