TBK1

any clues? the stereo is a sony explode yadda yadda yadda, wired to the orig radio hot wire (blue on plug) in my 77. Frame grounded. When ever you turn on the turn signal the radio goes black as in to loose power, it also sometimes does this when shifting into reverse, have checked all connections, fuses, and monitored the power whith a mulitimeter when this happens but see NO drop in voltage at any time! where would you start? 1977, 2600 Bored 30 over, mild cam, E-88, header (wraped), Trip webers, Msa areoII body kit, Paint code 232G, Tokico springs and struts, 83 5spd tranny. Unilte Dizzy, blaster II coil.

Think we are missing something here, he said "everything flatlined, no readings" Might want to check your fusable links and recrimp them and put back on, had same issue happen with mine!

did u have to drain the oil first, new oil hate to if dont have to.!

Thinking the one tooth thing myself, plug wire are back where they should be, still runs but onlt 5 btdc max obtainable. Is it possible to pull dizzy remove and reposistion the shaft WITHOUT removing the oil pump? Will the shaft fall into the pump slot ok, maybe by hand rotating the motor alittle to get it to drop in place? will the shaft bind up on the crank gear not fully installed this way? Think they are both zx dizzys or pss 1 is 77 org, but they were both one engines before with there housing and ran fine. Think rotor faces more to straight front towards radiator! havent looked at it in a couple weeks!

ok lets start with the R-12, Not elligal to use, just cant manufacture it after the 1991 montreal protocol, cost is over 30.00 per lb thats why no one uses it. R-134 will NOT cool better, but will work in the system. The reason most shops use it is you dont have to have an EPA cert to buy it! Almost forgot, I beleive that the auto guys cant buy anything but 134 on their cert cards, might be wrong but dont think so! R-414b, be careful it contains a butane type product in its make up, think about that? Leaks ? A product Ive found VERY close and working very well is R-420 and it doesnt contain any butane products (think it used to be called RB276) And last I have 2 condensors sitting here if you cant find one i'll make you a decent deal one one. Used to be a HVAC/R instructor and now run my own business! Z's as with most of us are our hobby!

come on dont be scared ,no one?

HUMMMMMMMM!!! Come on, even if I pulled a BONER! I can Take it!

ALMOST FORGOT, if it matters I used the dizzy out of his 240 which is some type of optical , or mag pickup type, unknown what brand or era, on his 240 it was set and running at 20 BTDC, do have the dizzy from the 77 motor but not sure about how to wire it in, dont remeber seeing any kind of ign box for the 77 but his 240 dizzy is wired thru some type of a ign box that has been mounted to the fender well, I beleive his is a 3 wire dizzy and the 77 is a 2 wire (or visa versa I was tired by that point, and half loaded)(had to, dealing with 4 teenagers during this process)heheheh

ok guys , got it all back together and installed in car heres whats up! before tear down I set engine at TDC compression stroke #1 cylinder, removed head, cam never got moved after that point(head previously rebuilt). The timing kit I received had no bright links or indicator marks on crank gear, but did had the 1, 2, 3, settings on cam gear. After rebuilding lower end brought #1 to tdc and installed the timing chain and cam gear to #1 posistion. had to rotate prob to 10 btdc to line up so cam gear would go on evenly. (prob real close cause I did the thumb pressure trick on tear down). when installing the oil pump,shaft,dizzy tried to line it up for #1 and thought I had it right but hear is what I am experienceing. car starts and runs with dizzy twisted at max cw . the indicator on the dizzy is @ max A not R, have used both lockdown screws for adjustment, but can only get it to 5 BTDC. But runs semi ok. Thinking I screwed up moved all the plug wires one spot on dizzy and it runs much stronger ( by ear wise, throttle response) but the timing mark is way way BTDC my light advances to 99 degrees advance and that only put the mark at about 25 BTDC. I put every thing to right posistion for now but what do you guys think!

Well there was one back there, disconnected electrically, and bypassed via hoses, redone it all and up and running thanks guys!

yea but SC is D*CKED up when it comes to buying cars outa state and worse when there is no title. Hell I dont even need it, got a 77 and sons 73, but I figured at that price what the hell, but dont think I want to go thru the agrevation if there is no title with it!!

WHEWWWW! I just saw that this morn and put a bid on it but immediately outbid, you would think that haveing NO TITLE would be something significant that you would want to mention huh!!!

Habvent looke duner his car at the tank but does the 73 have an electric AND a mechanical fuel pump? If so has anyone tried to run on just the Electric. N47 head no milled for mechanical.

Might be a good thing for the gearing to be to tall, HE IS 16!!!! And if it poses to many probs we can always put his 4sp back in!

Also notice in your public profile that this assembly only has 4k miles on it, hard to beleive all this is bad!!!! also good idea to put in a new rear tranny seal while it is out!

Just did mine yesterday, here you go Ill try to remeber everything but yes the manual is pretty good. you can get clutch kits NEW off ebay for under $120, got mine local for $90 . Pull drive shaft,good idea to drain tranny fluid,remove the back up switch wires, remove the speedometr cable, best to remove starter for ease of install, remove the clutch slave cylinder (entire unit easiest). place a floor jack or tranny jack under tranny remove all 4 bolts holding bell housing to engine, pull out trany. now the throw out bearing is still on tranny shaft, remove it and seperate the collar from bearing, use a puller and socket setup in hole, then press on new bearing, reinstall on shaft and connect to fork, Thats done! now there are 6 bolts that bolt the pressure plate to the fly wheel, remove those and out comes the pressure plate, and clutch plate, now there are 6 bolts I think that hold the flywheel on, remove them and off comes the flywheel, watch out it is heavy! first check the flywheel surface for groves or problems just as you would a brake drum or rotor, if no probs you really dont have to have it turned but some would say why not you have gone this far. local Napa or machine shop can turn it for you if needed! Now if you are gonna replace the pilot bearing it is a brass bushing in the center of the crankshaft, there are multiple ways to change it, do a search on it! Re-install in the reverse order insureing you torque all bolts to specs and I also use locktite on them. insert the pilot shaft tool into the clutch plate and into the pilot bearing in the crank. the protruding side goes toward the tranny! install the pressure plate over the clutch plate and bolt into posistion . Once that is done the pressure will hold the clutch plate into posistion if you are not to ROUGH stabbing the tranny back in! Now when stabbing the tranny in, it needs to be as level and lined up as possible, helps to have a second body, as you get close have someone turn the tranny shaft at the rear until the trany slips into the clutch plate teeth and push tranny rest the way in and bolt it up to the engine.Done! I forgot you need to remove the shifter before atempimg to remove the tranny! As far as adjustment the manual is very detailed and not difficult if you dont have GORRILLA hand to get up to the adjust rod under the dash on the clutch pedal linkage! Ther you Go! Chime in guys if I forgot anything! SCARED IS FOR SISSY'S!!!!!!!!!!

ok same subject different setup! putting what I think is a 83 5sp in the sons 73 240 which has/had a 4sp! why you may ask?? Just because!!! Putting in a rebuilt 280 motor anyway so why not! Anyway! Is the speedo gear in the tranny the only thing that controls the correct speed rating on the speedometer! Noticed that his 4 speed and this 5 spd both have WHITE gear, but the are WAY different on Tooth size/spacing! and didnt want to go in freely, both bodies looked identical. Think I read somewhere there is 3 different gears for the speedo to correct the reading! If so what would the other 2 colors be and does anyone have them laying around for sale, also if white is in it and it reads fast whick one to go with, and visa versa if it reads slow which one to goe with! I know that the gear in this 5sp has been changed because I put it in my other spd to correct its low(15mph off) reading!

trying to finish up this rebuild, went to install the front seal in timing chain cover and noticed it is not flush with the cover but "recessed" approx 1/2", pulled it out and tried again same thing, looks same as old seal, 240 motor we removed seal sits flush what do you guys think! Of course no of this frustration comes close to those litlle @$#%#$@ rubber seal strips and metal strips that have to go in the sides of the rear main cap! If this @$#%$#@@ leaks im gonna be pissed!!!!

great, thanks guys, we'll give it a go

guys putting back together the 280 motor with n47 head for install in boys 240, using his downdraft carb setup and headers, question is the n47 has 3 screw holes above the intake ports, the outside 2 are for the intake mounts but the center one that isnt used for this setup do I have to plug the holes? also used the gasket for the 240 vs 280 that doesnt hace thecutout for the injectors, asummme this wont cause any problems?

Thanks will, Nobody else!!!!!

Hey guys , help us out here, trying to set a fair price for this for one of the members but neither of us can seem to find much reference! This is a complete FI manifold from a 77 california car with all the emmisions stuff as far as I can tell, car had a good emmision sticker when I got it before doing a motor swap here is 2 pics, thanks for inputs, want to be fair but dont want to give it away either!

Getting ready to start putting this motor back toghether, quick question. 77 coupe can I use the 9" flywheel, I beleive its for 2+2, and if so do I need Do I have to get a 2+2 clutch, Already ordered the coupe clutch, yea stupid but I didnt have things tore apart when I orderd>

WOW great info, got everything ordered yesterday, rings bearings timing chain kit, complete gasket set, clutch kit and assembly lube, engine paint and only cost 350.00, local Z shop turned me on to his suplier hehehe! wont be here till tuesday but that gives the boy a chance to clean and paint everything before the build and install, keep the tips coming, Im RE-LEARNING ALOT!!!

can you expond on the TAPPER, dont see anything that would make me say HEY ITS TAPPERD, and looking at these ( could be stock I dont see any MARKINGS), going to order new $^!# today!