ZSaint

We had all of the parts off a Z that had given up on the FI and installed SU's. It was expensive in time but no hard cash. Anyone experiencing similar problems with the FI bucking when you first take off in low, check for air leaks.

I have a '78 280Z that had been stored for 7 yrs. We fixed all of the problems for cars that have not run for a long time. (fuel pump, leaking water/fuel lines, heater blockage, etc) We finally got it to run but it always stumbled when you first off. We replaced the computer, AFM, theromo-switch, cold start valve, etc. Trying find the culprit. What we discovered after close examination was a small hole in the AFM to TB boot. ((smaller then a pencil!) We grabbed a used one from the box of spares, installed it and Shazam! The car ran great. These old FI Z's simply will not run with ANY air leaks. FYI!:

I need to remove the injection from my '78 280Z to fix a broken exh manifold stud. I had a lot of problems getting this car to run after sitting for 7 years. I have it running but it still has a leaness when you first take off. (popping back through the intake manifold) I had the injectors cleaned and replaced two of them which were plugged. The car run OK on the road but has that hesitation when you first take off. I will be taking the injection system off to remove and replace the exh stud. I have a new set of Z Therapy SU's and ported intake manifolds in a box that I took off my 3.0 motor in the '71 240Z. (put the three-SU set up on the car) Should I continue to fight the fuel injection or should I install the SU carbs? I have the fuel pump and choke cables, etc. to do the exchange. What are the pro's and con's?

I will start doing some checking on the EFI soon. Thanks for the help. I will give you the results so you can give me direction.

I have installed a new pump. I have 40# pressure. I have not done any work with an ohm meter.

I have a similar concern with my '78 280Z. It sat for 7 years and I just got it running again. It also pops and backfires when I try to do a normal accel from a stop. If I hammer it, it runs great. This is my first Datsun FI system. I have aways worked with Solexes, Webers, SU's or Hitachi carbs. I have changed AFM and computers and the malady still exists. I bought a new water temp sensor and think that may be the problem. Mine is for the 80's ZX's. Will it work on my '78?

This steering wheel has been identified! It is off a 83-84 Datsun 720 pick-up. Mystery is solved. I have already asked the seller for a full refund. Hope I do not have to file a grievance with PayPal. We'll see!

I sent him an email telling him that his wheel is NOT from a Z. I asked for a return and refund. If he does not respond, I will file a complaint. PayPal will do what's fair.

I just replaced the seals in my new 5-speed. I remember having to turn the seal around when I installed it in the front cover. Normally, you press the seal in with the 'flat' side being out where you put the pressure on. With the front cover you put the seal in "reverse". You place the 'flat' side facing OUT. You are putting the seal inside so the thin or seal lip is where you apply the press. Remember, the flat side of the seal always faces outside.

I have some pics of the horn mechanism and the wheel hub. I also measured the 'dish'. It is 1 1/2" flatter then the 240-280Z wheels. Has anyone seen this steering wheel or have any knowledge of this wheel? I sure can use your help people. Thank you! This is supposed to be from a 280Z or 280ZX. I do not think this is what the seller said it is. Help!

I bought this steering wheel on eBay. I need the horn mechanism. It has smaller spokes and does not have the deep-dish as the 280Z wheel. It also has a plastic ring bolted to the bottom of the hub. The 280Z horn will not fit. Can anyone tell me what this is from? I need to find another wheel to rob the horn parts. Can anyone tell me what this is from? (I cannot change wheels because I installed a new leather cover on this wheel. Ouch!) Thanks for looking. Hope someone can help. Questions? Comments? Help!

I feel confident it is not a fuel pressure problem. I have a new fuel pump putting out 40#. When I hammer the throttle it will run up to 5500 w/o a miss. Drop it back into high gear and it starts shuddering and popping. One fellow mentioned the server replacement solved his similar problem. I will get a new one and try it. This car runs soo good I just want to solve this prblem. I'll keep trying....

Wrong buffalo breath, I have a '78 280Z. (I have 3 SU's on my 3.0 240Z)We have looked for leaks to see why this FI is running lean. Cannot find any cracks, bad hoses, loose bolts, etc. We have not found the problem yet. I do NOT want to richen the system until we have found the source of this leaness. We have listened to all of the ideas. It is not the timing or the temperate sensor. The timing will not make it back fire and the sensor deals only with a cold motor. Still looking for someone who has solved this problem. Rotorgoat and I really want the cars to be smooth. This bucking at every light is bothersome.

Bingo! You are having the same problem I am having. Runs good when I first start it. After going 6-8 blocks it starts to have small back fire when I try to accelerate. If I punch it, it takes off like nothing is wrong. When I drive it carefully, it pusles and backfires as it takes off and when it is driving down the highway at 45 mph. It is an annoying charactoristic. It is too lean. We have looked for air leaks and found none. We are still lookiing for any ideas that anyone has. I am certain others have had this problem. How was it resolved???????????

Thanks for the tip Powderkeg. I looked on ebay and found a set in Thailand for $39.95 delivered to my door. They sa y 30 days delivery. Sheeesh, they must be rowing one over! These are nicely shaped mirrors that use 2 screws to attach. I will post a pic when I get them installed. Backing into my garage a couple of times a day is difficult w/o a RHS mirror. Row, row, row your boat....