ZSaint

I ordered a Pathfinder M/C. It is 1" and is designed for 4-whl disc brakes. I will plumb it in and see how it works.

I found out the Patrol is a single piston M/C. I am looking for a Stanza, now.

I adjusted the linkage and have the longest throw available. It is still too long a stroke. I will start looking for a 1" cylinder for the Z.

I have found out that the Stanza uses a 1" M/C. Does anyone know if this will work? It looks like the same cylinder.

The Toyota calipers have 4 small pucks. Doesn't take a lot of fluid travel to make these calipers work. 60-70 Nissan Patrol. I will see what the parts houses have for these babies.

Nissan Patrol 4WD??? I wonder what year (about) these would be? 80's? I guess I can go to the parts house and see what they have. How do you take out the valves? I think these valves are in the lines where the brake lines bolt to the M/C. Can you just take the valves out? (Did you mean 'pinned'?) I am guessing the front and rear lines are the same as the ZX M/C, right? I remember changing the brake lines on the 240Z because they are opposite from the ZX. Hope the Patrol is the same as the ZX!!! I will check it out! I went out today and fiddled with the brake pedal adjustment. I have all of the travel screwed in to the linkage. It is still too much travel. I will pursue the 1" Patrol 4WD M/C. I know the extra volume will help the travel. Thanks for all of your tips!

I know the Z32 uses a 1 1/16" master cylinder. It will not fit the Z. Does anyone know of a ZABCO-type cylinder that will fit a Z that is extra large? 1" or larger? I need more fluid travel! :cheeky:

I took the "scarred" camshaft and head back to the yard today. A nice way to start the week, 150 mile round trip! They smiled and gave me my money back. Why do these guys try to sell this junk? You know this camshaft would go flat in about a month and they would say, Gosh, what ever happened to that cam? You must not have had sufficient oil for it, dude.

I have considered this fact but wonder if these calipers move that much fluid. I will check out the brake pedal and see if I can gain any stroke. I does travel a long way. Maybe I need to fabricate a longer rod from the pedal to the MC? I will check it all out tomorrow. I have been busy with the camshaft getting this thing to run. Now that it is running, I can start fine tuning these kinds of things. :cross-eye

I have installed '94 Corvette calipers/rotors on my '71 Z. I have put in a larger MC, a 15/16". The brakes work very well and really stop with very little pressure. The problem I am having is long pedal travel. The pedal goes very near the floor before the brakes work. It does not help to pump them up. They do not pump up. They work well on the first stroke so there is not air in the lines. What is going on? It feels like I have too much travel in the pedal.

I am still looking for a RHS chrome mirror for my '71 240Z. I tried the guys in Australia/New Zealand but got no response. I know they made them. A guy that works at ZTherapy has one on his '70. (It is a REAL RHS mirror!) It was on the car when he bought it. Anyone with ideas are welcome.

I finally installed a stock '83 ZXT camshaft and rockers and the car runs great. I just took it out and put 50 miles on it. It runs great, has good oil presssure and does not overheat. I have found a camgrinder that will grind me a performance cam for the turbo head. He has the spec and masters for a .480 lift - 294` durantion hydraulic camshaft. (What about these numbers? Will this cam be driveable on the street?) It is expensive... $350! Once I get it running, I'll give you guys feedback on the camshaft. Right now, I'm happy with my 3.0 with a stock camshaft. It is running great. Thanks for all of your support during this expedition. It has been a long haul. One more step and the egine will finally be done and hopefully performing well.

If you read the post, ALL of the lifters "pump up". I do not feel it is because of foreign material in the lifters. I have NO compression on ANY cylinder. (After a couple of hours they bleed down and I have compression and the engine fires right up. It them pumps up and I lose all of my compression as the lifters hold the valves open when they should be closed) I am changing the camshaft, lash pads and rocker arms even as we speak. I will have it completed tomorrow and I will see how it runs with a stock hydraulic cam in place. I will let you all know! :knockedou

Suspicians confirmed! I am looking for a set of bad hyd. lifters to modify. I will put in the hyd. cam and see if my problems are solved. If not, we will modify these lifters to work. Thanks for the post. I just needed confirmation that the P90A hydraulic head is unique.

I am hoping I was wrong and you find out good info about these heads!

I am guessing the P90 head is different. The P90A head has a larger diameter threaded hole for the hyd. lifter then the P90 head has for the solid lifter. Too bad they did that. It would have been nice if the heads were interchangeable.

I agree with you on the L6 having more torque then a 4-cyl car. I think another item that must be considered is the rear end ratio. If you have a short rear end, you will not experience the problem of 'bogging' when you start out. If you have a 3.36 stock ratio, it will be a problem. I am running a 3.9 L/S so it is NOT a problem. I feel the stock flywheel is just fine for most street-driven Z's. If you want to lighten it up, just be aware of these situations.

This head was cleaned and prepped by Raver Motorsports.

I found another P90A head. It is coming from Florida. I have found a camgrinder who has a profile for a hydraulic camshaft. It has .480 lift and a long duration, 294`. He recommended putting the stock ZXT cam in the head to see if it solves my problem. He knew when I put weaker valve springs that it would make the situation worse. It did. It appears that the lifters are constantly trying to get "0" clearance and pump up the "solid" clearance (.012-.018) on each revolution. They quickly pump up and hold the valve open when it should be closed. Solid cams have a "V" base and hydraulic cams have a perfectly round "U" base. With 300# springs they held the valves closed a bit longer before pumping up. 210# springs are overcome quicker. I believe this is what is happening. My understanding of cams is a bit more complete now after this fiasco. I will let you know if this "theory" works when the new head/cam arrives from FL.

Here is my take on a lighter flywheel. You want a very light flywheel for road racing (Xcross). It revs better and you have less weight circulating around the crank to speed up and down during frequent shifting. Downside of this is it is harder to keep the car on the cam during starts. It wants to die when you let out the clutch. (especially twin/triple discs) If you are a drag racing fool, you want the heavier flywheel. It has the inertia to keep the revs up and turn the tires over. I remember a guy here that had a 40# flywheel he used for drag racing. He really stormed off the line. I used a maxima flywheel and then cut the outer ring off near the ring gear. We cut 4# off the weight and if I ever get it to run, I hope it works out. (Not a drag racer, yet!) :knockedou

I am hoping they come up with a good response. I just want to know what the solid lifter looks like in the P90A head. I hope it is the same as the hydraulic!

Drove 75 miles to pick up the P90A head. Got it back to the shop and cleaned it up. (Covered with cosmolene) I removed the camshaft and it had been "buffed" with an emory wheel to remove the rust. They ruined the cam. Now I need another cam. I guess I just have no luck other then bad luck!

I got the specs. The valve springs were 280-300# open.

Great! Let me know if they can get the adjusters, too! I am guessing this is the way to solve my problem. Vernon at Raver Motorsports told me to get a hydaulic cam and install it. I really do not need a stock camshaft in the engine. I hope you can find me some solid lifters for the P90 or P90A!!!

I know that P90 heads have solid adjusters. Some of the P90A heads have both solid and hydraulic lifters. I am wanting to convert a hydraulic P90A head to solid lifters/adjusters. Are the solid adjusters on a P90A the same size (dia) and thread pitch that are in the P90A? How about the solid adjusters on the P90A head. Are these the same size and thread pitch that are used by the hydraulic lifters? I know you cannot use the older-style solid lifter/adjuster on the P90A head. How about the solid adjusters on the P90 or P90A head?